S4 intake manifold: I made some changes ... dyno results ...
#16
Pro
Thread Starter
Nearly ready to go.
Since I don't own a 13th degree 19th axis milling machine that can mirror the image image of that moon rock where Aldrtin took a whizz, I had to settle for the application of first principles to some 3mm fiber board. this also allows me to adjust the spacer thickness in 3mm steps:
#17
Rennlist Member
Hey Mark, and with all due respect, did U actually read the detail of my post?
I specifically stated that the comparison between both runs was VALID ONLY UP TO 3800rpm I.E. WHERE THE FLAPPY OPENS !!!!!!!!!!.. because on the previous run the flappy was NOT working c/- a failed vacuum actuator and therefore the resulting chart was realistic only up to 3800rpm.
Flooring the engine under 2500 rpm? Where did I say anything about that?
Gently rolling on the throttle in say 2nd from 2000rpm and 20mph away from traffic lights is anything but abuse. And as the revs rise I roll the throttle a little more and so on.
Here's an observation: today - aircon on (100F summer here), my daughter in car, and the engine responds as well as it did with the 'old' manifold with no passenger and aircon off. And has done since I modded the manifold.
Regards.
Upfixen.
BTW - the changes I made didn't happen because I woke up one morning in a frisky mood. There IS a valid technical reason behind each change.
I specifically stated that the comparison between both runs was VALID ONLY UP TO 3800rpm I.E. WHERE THE FLAPPY OPENS !!!!!!!!!!.. because on the previous run the flappy was NOT working c/- a failed vacuum actuator and therefore the resulting chart was realistic only up to 3800rpm.
Flooring the engine under 2500 rpm? Where did I say anything about that?
Gently rolling on the throttle in say 2nd from 2000rpm and 20mph away from traffic lights is anything but abuse. And as the revs rise I roll the throttle a little more and so on.
Here's an observation: today - aircon on (100F summer here), my daughter in car, and the engine responds as well as it did with the 'old' manifold with no passenger and aircon off. And has done since I modded the manifold.
Regards.
Upfixen.
BTW - the changes I made didn't happen because I woke up one morning in a frisky mood. There IS a valid technical reason behind each change.
Did you not read my post? I specifically stated that after 5000rpm IS VALID, and is of interest for ANYONE concerned with performance and doesn't rely on the flappy working or not, or even being there. again, use of our cars below flappy 3800rpm is not really a concern because how many will floor our cars there?
and you didn't need to say "flooring it below 2500rpm) its assumed, as that's how you get a HP or torque reading, because to get that, you need to "floor " the engine. (WOT) and not many would care about that area and level of performance
yes, I read your post and am very interested in the results, but focusing below 3800 seems to be a moot point when looking at performance improvements.
let me ask you, why are you not looking at the point where the flappy would not be a factor. (i.e beyond 5000rpm)?
So your last comment about the car performance off stop lights with ac off and with a passenger, is saying that you made changes but didn't hurt anything because it works the same as it did before the mods?
again, im very interested because , like you , I look at the intake plenum from an engineering standpoint and just become sad and frustrated that we don't have more performance out of a 5 liter engine due to intake restrictions. it looks great, and is compact, but is not optimal. what you did makes a lot of sense.
So, let me get this straight, you are widening many of the inlets and try and base/locate those that are close to the structure to do so?
also making more room in the intake structure (adding volume ) and optimizing some paths with the cutting out of material?
btw, why didn't you get a air compressor and real air grinding tools... man, ive done a lot of this kind of cutting with the 84 euro intake mods and it takes forever!!!! and it's SO much easier and better with air tools...... you can get in touble fast, if you make an error, but if you know what you want to do , it makes this kind of port work and bellmouth mod, easy work.
#18
Nordschleife Master
If the baseline dyno had a flappy stuck closed, then the new and baseline should both have the flappy closed above the high flappy switching point at 5400 or so rpm. I think this is Mark's point, the curves are comparable above 5400 rpm.
#19
Instructor
Can I ask a question as a non technical person in a technical post thread.
Why is the S4 inlet manifold regarded as being so compromised? I've read this previously and that the S3 manifold is 'better' I've never read the explanation as to why.
Brave stuff! I'd scare me sh!@less to take a grinder to the manifold!
Richard
Why is the S4 inlet manifold regarded as being so compromised? I've read this previously and that the S3 manifold is 'better' I've never read the explanation as to why.
Brave stuff! I'd scare me sh!@less to take a grinder to the manifold!
Richard
#20
Rennlist Member
so, wouldn't any gains that the mods made be relevant to the discussion where it really counts anyway?
Here is a dyno with flappy open or closed entire dyno run.
#21
Nordschleife Master
Can I ask a question as a non technical person in a technical post thread. Why is the S4 inlet manifold regarded as being so compromised? I've read this previously and that the S3 manifold is 'better' I've never read the explanation as to why. Brave stuff! I'd scare me sh!@less to take a grinder to the manifold! Richard
#22
Rennlist Member
The S4 engine produces 85% of the peak torque for a very wide 1500-6000 rpm range, largely because of the manifold. It's a great manifold for the purpose that it was built. However, it does compromise the top end power to produce that flat torque curve, to fit under the hood, and to not cover the entire engine while requiring over dozen hose clamps.
in doing so, (giving that little more grunt around town at not high reving RPM), they sacrificed HP at the top, (and mid )and that's where you really need it if you are concerned about performance.
don't over glorify a "flat torque curve" its not really a flat torque curve you want. (that just means a climbing HP curve and we really want a flat HP curve if possible) flat torque, only means you are getting more HP down low that you may never really want or need if you care about performance)
personally, for a given HP value max, I want a falling torque curve!
#23
Nordschleife Master
don't over glorify a "flat torque curve" its not really a flat torque curve you want. (that just means a climbing HP curve and we really want a flat HP curve if possible) flat torque, only means you are getting more HP down low that you may never really want or need if you care about performance) personally, for a given HP value max, I want a falling torque curve!
#24
Drifting
Can't remember where I heard or read this saying...but it seems true for the ordinary car buying public (and is an example of general misconceptions): "People buy horsepower....but they drive torque".
#26
Rennlist Member
Thanks Upfixen, for the pictures and analysis. That is JFB. However, intuitively it looks to me like that large bell shoulder just in front of the cross-thru where the flappy is, needs to come out of there. Why don't you cut it out and round that area/transition out just like the one on the other side of that opening. It will end up a lopsided bell, but I can't see why that would make a difference.
#27
Rennlist Member
ANYONE that understands the concepts, would always want a flat HP curve, at least one flat enough to match gear spacing. nothing else matters. in the end, remember, a flat torque curve means a rising HP curve.... this means you need very close gears to take advantage of it. Ironically, it means you have more torque down low, and that's what you are really talking about. flat torque curve????? GT3s have flat torque curves.
HP at any vehicle speed is what you can use as a guide for its acceleration potential. again, engine torque means nothing without
#28
Rennlist Member
Thanks Upfixen, for the pictures and analysis. That is JFB. However, intuitively it looks to me like that large bell shoulder just in front of the cross-thru where the flappy is, needs to come out of there. Why don't you cut it out and round that area/transition out just like the one on the other side of that opening. It will end up a lopsided bell, but I can't see why that would make a difference.
#29
I think it is possible to expand the upper and lower intake manifold alot more. but It would involve cutting the stock manifold and welding or finding a very strong way to bond the modifications *probably with composite material). But, the problem would then be the throttle body. You would have to either bore it out, or buy a larger, either way you would have to tune the computers. then the intake, it is a horrible design. i could not tell if you had a supercharger, but not to much air flows into the actual intake tubes. you would have to then make the box as large as possible, remove the air filer. Make a filter and second box that goes flat in between the hood and the engine, then a 3rd that kind of warps around in front and underneath the radiator. You have to be careful not to obstruct what little air is hitting the fans.
#30
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Site Sponsor
While driving on the road (which is the design purpose of the 928), what is the percentage of time spent at full throttle? MK is obviously interested in track, and only track, and has no appreciation at all for street performance or driving pleasure.
Many (almost all) of the folks on this forum are much more interested in the pleasure of driving on the street, where throttle response and feel are most important. (SEE: "X-pipe" for example.)
While I don't plan to modify my car, I can appreciate the curiosity, initiative and enthusiasm shown by the original poster before the thread hijack.
Many (almost all) of the folks on this forum are much more interested in the pleasure of driving on the street, where throttle response and feel are most important. (SEE: "X-pipe" for example.)
While I don't plan to modify my car, I can appreciate the curiosity, initiative and enthusiasm shown by the original poster before the thread hijack.