Rear Spoiler Delete 86.5
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Ok comrades.
I have always loved the naked OB rear end.
I really love the S3 chin and the OB rear at the same time.
I really, don't love, the fruity rear wiper....can you see where this is going?
I was able to buy a 85 factory rear spoiler delete hatch, along with quarter seals and trim from the mighty Landseer.
My plan is currently to use the 85's trim, seals, and clips on the 86 for the wiper and spoiler delete.
This is my first foray into body work so all advice is appreciated.
So far I have the spoiler and quarter sections, along with my wiper, off my 86.
I have the trim off the 85 hatch.
Thus far, the holes in the crease match up for both hatches.
Where the holes are used to hold clips for the trim on the 85 delete hatch, the holes for the 86 are used with spacers to screw into the spoiler-- if that makes sense how I am describing it.
The 86 has the extra brake light and a small inset on the inside the hatch for the spoiler hardware when closed, otherwise the same, I'm thinking.
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I have always loved the naked OB rear end.
I really love the S3 chin and the OB rear at the same time.
I really, don't love, the fruity rear wiper....can you see where this is going?
I was able to buy a 85 factory rear spoiler delete hatch, along with quarter seals and trim from the mighty Landseer.
My plan is currently to use the 85's trim, seals, and clips on the 86 for the wiper and spoiler delete.
This is my first foray into body work so all advice is appreciated.
So far I have the spoiler and quarter sections, along with my wiper, off my 86.
I have the trim off the 85 hatch.
Thus far, the holes in the crease match up for both hatches.
Where the holes are used to hold clips for the trim on the 85 delete hatch, the holes for the 86 are used with spacers to screw into the spoiler-- if that makes sense how I am describing it.
The 86 has the extra brake light and a small inset on the inside the hatch for the spoiler hardware when closed, otherwise the same, I'm thinking.
![Name: IMG_1090 (598x800).jpg
Views: 1922
Size: 285.3 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/890396d1417213235-rear-spoiler-delete-86-5-img_1090-598x800-.jpg)
![Name: IMG_1092 (598x800).jpg
Views: 1912
Size: 275.1 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/890397d1417213235-rear-spoiler-delete-86-5-img_1092-598x800-.jpg)
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Size: 310.8 KB](https://rennlist.com/forums/attachments/928-forum/890398d1417213235-rear-spoiler-delete-86-5-img_1120-598x800-.jpg)
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#2
Basic Sponsor
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Rennlist
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I am a big fan of the spoiler delete cars.
__________________
![](https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1694/8685/files/928sRus_rennlist.png?v=1621798567)
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
![thumbsup](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/bigok.gif)
#5
Rennlist Member
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Excellent commitment to do the qtr windows at same time. I think I just took a razor blade to my 83 when I did this years ago. The qtr window trim never quite fit right.
Here is a video from our own Dean Fuller on removing the glass and reinstalling with a helper.
Here is a video from our own Dean Fuller on removing the glass and reinstalling with a helper.
#6
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Glad to hear there is a dedicated, naked bottom contingent out there!
Now Roger, when I said the rear wiper looked fruity...I meant it looked good on you! LOL.
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So that is the famous GTS, it looks awesome my friend.
Brain, I thank you for that link to Dean's installation -- that was one of my questions, how to get the quarter glass and seals back in.
Another question: What's the best way to rejuvenate those seals? Preferred product to use?
Regards.
Now Roger, when I said the rear wiper looked fruity...I meant it looked good on you! LOL.
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So that is the famous GTS, it looks awesome my friend.
Brain, I thank you for that link to Dean's installation -- that was one of my questions, how to get the quarter glass and seals back in.
Another question: What's the best way to rejuvenate those seals? Preferred product to use?
Regards.
#7
Team Owner
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if you rub the seals with Dow Corning 111 it will make and keep them soft
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#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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Thanks Stan, I will try and find it!
I was able to pull the quarter seals and glass off the 86.5 today.
I use the word "pull" loosely, because the seals did not survive.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I was doing it by myself and had a pile of rubber on the floor afterwards.
I got the hatch off as well. A little awkward doing it solo, but pretty straightforward.
At one point, I was trying to figure out how to disconnect the wiring harness plug without breaking the tabs -- while trying to keep the hatch from going on the floor with the other hand...
Removing the quarter spoiler hardware turned into the most work for some reason. I had to remove the interior rear panel to get to one fixture, and go up under the fenders minus tires and splash guard to get the other bracket off. The passenger side was pretty freaking tight, with the neck of the gas tank in the way.
Still enjoying myself, but seeing the pic of the entire rear end gutted makes me think that it didn't take long for this project to get outta hand.![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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I was able to pull the quarter seals and glass off the 86.5 today.
I use the word "pull" loosely, because the seals did not survive.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
I was doing it by myself and had a pile of rubber on the floor afterwards.
I got the hatch off as well. A little awkward doing it solo, but pretty straightforward.
At one point, I was trying to figure out how to disconnect the wiring harness plug without breaking the tabs -- while trying to keep the hatch from going on the floor with the other hand...
Removing the quarter spoiler hardware turned into the most work for some reason. I had to remove the interior rear panel to get to one fixture, and go up under the fenders minus tires and splash guard to get the other bracket off. The passenger side was pretty freaking tight, with the neck of the gas tank in the way.
Still enjoying myself, but seeing the pic of the entire rear end gutted makes me think that it didn't take long for this project to get outta hand.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
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#10
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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I used, what I'm calling the Mariani method, to fill holes for my body work.
Roughed up the inside surface and used Marine-Weld to place metal inside the body wall, after that set, the holes were filled in with Bondo and sanded to effect.
There was several areas of rust forming under the center section of the spoiler, which needed to be hit as well.
Can imagine how tedious it would be to do a whole car.
If you look closely you can see the rear wiper motor is gone, and the rear end interior has a much cleaner look without that assembly poking out.
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Roughed up the inside surface and used Marine-Weld to place metal inside the body wall, after that set, the holes were filled in with Bondo and sanded to effect.
There was several areas of rust forming under the center section of the spoiler, which needed to be hit as well.
Can imagine how tedious it would be to do a whole car.
If you look closely you can see the rear wiper motor is gone, and the rear end interior has a much cleaner look without that assembly poking out.
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#11
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I'm the opposite... I like the rear spoiler, but think the chin looks like a goofy afterthought.
I deleted the wiper and switch on my S3 though, the rear wipers on 928s and 944s look awful.
I deleted the wiper and switch on my S3 though, the rear wipers on 928s and 944s look awful.
#12
Drifting
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Hey Dave i just read your email and looked for this.
The fact that you had to get into the rear quarters with body filler will make this tricky for you on your first painting attempt.
If your car has original paint, it doesn't have clear coat so it will be tough to blend by you.
Wondering if you should get it all ready and take it to a decent paint shop. Your car is real sweet.
You're doing a great job w the bodywork and i really like the modification, but i'm worried it may be tough as a first painting attempt.
Call me when you can to discuss..
The fact that you had to get into the rear quarters with body filler will make this tricky for you on your first painting attempt.
If your car has original paint, it doesn't have clear coat so it will be tough to blend by you.
Wondering if you should get it all ready and take it to a decent paint shop. Your car is real sweet.
You're doing a great job w the bodywork and i really like the modification, but i'm worried it may be tough as a first painting attempt.
Call me when you can to discuss..
Last edited by The Fixer; 12-01-2014 at 09:39 PM.
#13
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
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I will definitely call, my man.
For some reason, I'm not that worried yet. I've taken on worse without any training, right?
I figure I can practice on the old hatch first, and then see how it goes.
If I can't pull it off, I will find a pro.
For those of you following the thread I had been picking Matt's brain.
The paint is original to car, black code 700/A1.
I found Porsche paint with matching code.
I bought clear coat and primer as well.
I would be coming at this as a rookie, with an entry level sprayer.
I was not aware that there was no clear coat used on these cars back in the day -- so that's one mistake I don't have to make thanks to Matt.
I had also heard (but could not find any) that Porsche used a black primer on the black cars?
I have a few more days of sanding before the fun begins.
For some reason, I'm not that worried yet. I've taken on worse without any training, right?
I figure I can practice on the old hatch first, and then see how it goes.
If I can't pull it off, I will find a pro.
For those of you following the thread I had been picking Matt's brain.
The paint is original to car, black code 700/A1.
I found Porsche paint with matching code.
I bought clear coat and primer as well.
I would be coming at this as a rookie, with an entry level sprayer.
I was not aware that there was no clear coat used on these cars back in the day -- so that's one mistake I don't have to make thanks to Matt.
I had also heard (but could not find any) that Porsche used a black primer on the black cars?
I have a few more days of sanding before the fun begins.
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
#15
Drifting
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Dave, your Porsche has original paint, it's value is connected to this in a big way so if i were you I wouldn't blow through to bare metal any more and get a good painter to at least give you a quote. Blending the rear quarter is tricky when clear was not used. You should take it to a pro that paints older cars and knows this type of paint Porsche used.
A high level of skilled craftsmanship and experience has always been required when painting Porsches on account of the curvature of the body. They're known fpr their great paintwork.
Porsche was the first manufacturer to introduce hot-dip galvanized steel for the entire body. This added weight but also longevity and value. Don't blow thru to bare metal anymore and use a good 2K epoxy primer to seal it back up But this is where i would stop and bring it to a good painter. They will respect your doing the bodywork and give you a good price.
From 1980, painting of aluminum parts (hood, fender and doors) was added for the Porsche 928.
In February 1986, a new body paint shop (your ride was painted here) was brought into operation with the first coating procedure in the cathodic dip tank (KTL). It was brought up to the stage in July 1986 where it was capable of handling production quantities. The old paint complex for painting plastic add-on parts was used until 1992.
Your 86.5 has a real nice modern paint job and should not be practiced on in my opinion. Get a pro to do it, your car is an investment !
The new paint shop brought a number of benefits with it:
Improvement of corrosion protection by means of cathodic dip painting
Restriction of the solvent emissions by means of an exhaust air decontamination system
Use of robots for applying the underbody protection
Increase of the potential daily number of items to 140 bodies
Heat recovery via a counter- current heat exchanger
I hope this helps steer you in the right direction Buddy,
Practice on a Pinto and then shoot at it.
Matt
A high level of skilled craftsmanship and experience has always been required when painting Porsches on account of the curvature of the body. They're known fpr their great paintwork.
Porsche was the first manufacturer to introduce hot-dip galvanized steel for the entire body. This added weight but also longevity and value. Don't blow thru to bare metal anymore and use a good 2K epoxy primer to seal it back up But this is where i would stop and bring it to a good painter. They will respect your doing the bodywork and give you a good price.
From 1980, painting of aluminum parts (hood, fender and doors) was added for the Porsche 928.
In February 1986, a new body paint shop (your ride was painted here) was brought into operation with the first coating procedure in the cathodic dip tank (KTL). It was brought up to the stage in July 1986 where it was capable of handling production quantities. The old paint complex for painting plastic add-on parts was used until 1992.
Your 86.5 has a real nice modern paint job and should not be practiced on in my opinion. Get a pro to do it, your car is an investment !
The new paint shop brought a number of benefits with it:
Improvement of corrosion protection by means of cathodic dip painting
Restriction of the solvent emissions by means of an exhaust air decontamination system
Use of robots for applying the underbody protection
Increase of the potential daily number of items to 140 bodies
Heat recovery via a counter- current heat exchanger
I hope this helps steer you in the right direction Buddy,
Practice on a Pinto and then shoot at it.
Matt