View Poll Results: Body flex in your car.
Car has a sunroof?
30
93.75%
Doors harder to latch/unlatch when car lifted/jacked?
16
50.00%
Hatch harder to latch/unlatch when car lifted/jacked?
2
6.25%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 32. You may not vote on this poll
Body Flex Poll
11-15-2014, 11:29 AM
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Body Flex Poll
Hi Folks.
May I ask you to take a moment and complete this poll for "technical interest".
In the 'body flex' thread some owners report noticeable flexing when their cars are unevenly lifted, while others say their cars just dont' flex.
As the cabin roof is an important part of the body structure, removal of part of it for the sunroof will / should allow a bit more body flex than in cars with a solid roof. Hence the thinking behind this poll.
So if U you're considering answering but you have a non-sunroof car and no flex then there is nothing to answer.
If you have a sunroofed car and no flex then mark only 'sunroof', and so on.
The poll setup is quite restrictive in that it allows only yes/no answers ie a dot or no dot. so I was unable to request MY.
So far there have been 6 replies: 6 sunroof and 6 body flex. Sort of saying something already.
Both my cars have sunroofs and body flex.
Significance of body flex to you? Less precise handling. (But only when you're really giving it the berries on twisty country roads
).
As the body is loaded from different directions when driving, the suspension point will slightly change position, altering alignment settings. So getting too **** about better than 0.5deg camber accuracy is probably unwarranted.
May I ask you to take a moment and complete this poll for "technical interest".
In the 'body flex' thread some owners report noticeable flexing when their cars are unevenly lifted, while others say their cars just dont' flex.
As the cabin roof is an important part of the body structure, removal of part of it for the sunroof will / should allow a bit more body flex than in cars with a solid roof. Hence the thinking behind this poll.
So if U you're considering answering but you have a non-sunroof car and no flex then there is nothing to answer.
If you have a sunroofed car and no flex then mark only 'sunroof', and so on.
The poll setup is quite restrictive in that it allows only yes/no answers ie a dot or no dot. so I was unable to request MY.
So far there have been 6 replies: 6 sunroof and 6 body flex. Sort of saying something already.
Both my cars have sunroofs and body flex.
Significance of body flex to you? Less precise handling. (But only when you're really giving it the berries on twisty country roads
).As the body is loaded from different directions when driving, the suspension point will slightly change position, altering alignment settings. So getting too **** about better than 0.5deg camber accuracy is probably unwarranted.
Last edited by UpFixenDerPorsche; 11-15-2014 at 04:57 PM. Reason: clarity
11-15-2014, 12:23 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
How about an option for:
No difference in doors or hatch when lifted/jacked.
No difference in doors or hatch when lifted/jacked.
11-15-2014, 12:27 PM
#3
Administrator - "Tyson"
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You left out:
1. How was it lifted (lift, jack..what kind of jack)
2. Where was it was lifted
3. where are the jack stands
4. What is the ambient temperature & relative humidity (could make a difference....)
5. Mileage
6. Porken bars used...yes/no
7. Elevation (maybe air density makes a difference?)
8. Year (early cars can be hundreds of pounds lighter)
9. Any modifications that possibly added / subtracted weight
1. How was it lifted (lift, jack..what kind of jack)
2. Where was it was lifted
3. where are the jack stands
4. What is the ambient temperature & relative humidity (could make a difference....)
5. Mileage
6. Porken bars used...yes/no
7. Elevation (maybe air density makes a difference?)
8. Year (early cars can be hundreds of pounds lighter)
9. Any modifications that possibly added / subtracted weight
11-15-2014, 01:00 PM
#4
You can call me Otis
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as for doors, one side is worse than the other if only one front corner is lifted at the jack point.
both doors have the same misalignment if only front is raised equally
also both doors were slightly misaligned with the striker while on a two post four point lift.
I dont recall the hatch having any problems, mine actually works when all four are on the ground.
both doors have the same misalignment if only front is raised equally
also both doors were slightly misaligned with the striker while on a two post four point lift.
I dont recall the hatch having any problems, mine actually works when all four are on the ground.
11-15-2014, 04:00 PM
#5
Pro
Thread Starter
You left out:
1. How was it lifted (lift, jack..what kind of jack)
2. Where was it was lifted
3. where are the jack stands
4. What is the ambient temperature & relative humidity (could make a difference....)
5. Mileage
6. Porken bars used...yes/no
7. Elevation (maybe air density makes a difference?)
8. Year (early cars can be hundreds of pounds lighter)
9. Any modifications that possibly added / subtracted weight
1. How was it lifted (lift, jack..what kind of jack)
2. Where was it was lifted
3. where are the jack stands
4. What is the ambient temperature & relative humidity (could make a difference....)
5. Mileage
6. Porken bars used...yes/no
7. Elevation (maybe air density makes a difference?)
8. Year (early cars can be hundreds of pounds lighter)
9. Any modifications that possibly added / subtracted weight
Trending Topics
11-15-2014, 07:27 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
85 Euro, sunroof.
Jacked up with a floor jack (using the front of the lower control arms & rear crossmember to lift), jackstands under the standard liftpoints, no lilftbars.
Both doors & hatch open normally.
There is a fair amount of flex when I jack it up though. The front end "droops" at least an inch from when the jackstand takes the weight to the liftpad on the jack coming off the front mount of the lower control arm.
Jacked up with a floor jack (using the front of the lower control arms & rear crossmember to lift), jackstands under the standard liftpoints, no lilftbars.
Both doors & hatch open normally.
There is a fair amount of flex when I jack it up though. The front end "droops" at least an inch from when the jackstand takes the weight to the liftpad on the jack coming off the front mount of the lower control arm.
11-16-2014, 01:56 AM
#10
You can call me Otis
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85 Euro, sunroof.
Jacked up with a floor jack (using the front of the lower control arms & rear crossmember to lift), jackstands under the standard liftpoints, no lilftbars.
Both doors & hatch open normally.
There is a fair amount of flex when I jack it up though. The front end "droops" at least an inch from when the jackstand takes the weight to the liftpad on the jack coming off the front mount of the lower control arm.
Jacked up with a floor jack (using the front of the lower control arms & rear crossmember to lift), jackstands under the standard liftpoints, no lilftbars.
Both doors & hatch open normally.
There is a fair amount of flex when I jack it up though. The front end "droops" at least an inch from when the jackstand takes the weight to the liftpad on the jack coming off the front mount of the lower control arm.
If your sunroof goes up, something else is amiss.
11-16-2014, 01:06 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
I didn't try the hatch. I'll do that and then vote.
11-16-2014, 01:58 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
I have never noticed any difference in the door or hatch latching when one wheel was off the ground. In fact on my S4 [also with sunroof] the poor thing's doors still opened and shut like normal after clouting a solid concrete barrier three quarters on at 70 mph. Although the removal of metal generally suggests a mechanical lessening I doubt the sunroof makes no difference any regular driver can tell unless you happen to be Niki Lauda.
Regards
Fred
Regards
Fred
11-16-2014, 08:18 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
when I leave a driveway with a roll cage, I can get stuck with one rear wheel up in the air. without a cage, this never happens. as stiff as the 928 is, it is pretty soft and flexes a lot!!!
11-17-2014, 12:20 AM
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
11-17-2014, 09:54 AM
#15
Nordschleife Master
I'd like to see results from some simple test many could perform and report back on. Subjectively I recall my first 928, a 50k mile 81 I bought fresh off lease in 86, being incredibly stiff, but I don't get the same feeling on any 928 recently, so I don't know if it was what I was used to then, or chassis have degraded over time.
Test idea.
Find a flat surface, stack two pieces of 2x6 (actually 3" high), one shorter to make a little ramp. Measure the height of all four fender wheel well lips. Drive the right front wheel onto the stacked blocks, measure all four fender wheel well lip heights. (don't use a jack as the suspension won't settle)
Report back with model year, miles, the difference in RF, LF, RR, LR, and any notes like special springs or model variation and we can list it in a chart.
Test idea.
Find a flat surface, stack two pieces of 2x6 (actually 3" high), one shorter to make a little ramp. Measure the height of all four fender wheel well lips. Drive the right front wheel onto the stacked blocks, measure all four fender wheel well lip heights. (don't use a jack as the suspension won't settle)
Report back with model year, miles, the difference in RF, LF, RR, LR, and any notes like special springs or model variation and we can list it in a chart.