Pod LED upgrade
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Pod LED upgrade
Finished my POD LED upgrade a couple of weeks ago and finally getting time to post the procedure, recommendations and results. I ordered various bulbs from superbrightleds.com and VLEDS.com trying to find the right combination for what I wanted to do. As you will see in the pics, the 928 instrument panel use an archaic 3 "prism" reflecting technology to transfer light from the source to the instrument cluster face. In order to use "blue" lights I had to take apart the cluster, remove the clear plastic cover and then separate the small "shiny" black reflector that transmits light to the 3 clear prisms which then transfer it to the face of the cluster. A high percentage of light is lost through this process, so in order to enhance the lumens of the blue leds I purchased silver metal tape and cut it to fit the small black reflector. The results were really good and I recommend this procedure regardless whether you are going with white or another color led.
I used Dwayne's pod removal thread as a basis and would highly recommend that you have some help to both remove and replace the pod, its a real PITA by yourself.
Also in the first pick there is a 9 volt battery that I used to test the polarity of the bulbs and you can see in pic # 8 that I used a red marker to indicate the positive side of the rear panel. I also marked the positive side on the bulb as well, that way the were inserted correctly.
I used a paperclip held by the alligator clip to test the blub once it was inserted into the panel. Pics 2-6 show the instrument housing with the elongated black reflective section visible at the bottom intact, removed and then the same panel with the reflective tape attached. You can also see the 3 prisms in pic # 3 that are used to reflect the light. German engineering at it best.
Pic 9 shows the three LED's I used to light up the face. I ended up using 2 white and 1 blue. 3 blue was too dim and the whites added a little brightness. The final pics show the results. I used my smartphone camera and the conditions weren't perfect but you still get the idea of how much enhancement the leds make. The reds are not as bright as they appear in the shot.
I also did the dome lights as well with led festoons. It goes without saying that you need to doxit EVERYTHING. Also don't forget the rheostat. I replaced mine with the " Protizmo" from protizmo.com which is used exclusively for LED applications. It basically just plugs into your existing rheostat and allows you to dim the leds if needed. Mine were perfect as they were so I really did not need it.
Like anything else on our 928's, just take your time, double-triple check everything and enjoy the results.
Marine 928
I used Dwayne's pod removal thread as a basis and would highly recommend that you have some help to both remove and replace the pod, its a real PITA by yourself.
Also in the first pick there is a 9 volt battery that I used to test the polarity of the bulbs and you can see in pic # 8 that I used a red marker to indicate the positive side of the rear panel. I also marked the positive side on the bulb as well, that way the were inserted correctly.
I used a paperclip held by the alligator clip to test the blub once it was inserted into the panel. Pics 2-6 show the instrument housing with the elongated black reflective section visible at the bottom intact, removed and then the same panel with the reflective tape attached. You can also see the 3 prisms in pic # 3 that are used to reflect the light. German engineering at it best.
Pic 9 shows the three LED's I used to light up the face. I ended up using 2 white and 1 blue. 3 blue was too dim and the whites added a little brightness. The final pics show the results. I used my smartphone camera and the conditions weren't perfect but you still get the idea of how much enhancement the leds make. The reds are not as bright as they appear in the shot.
I also did the dome lights as well with led festoons. It goes without saying that you need to doxit EVERYTHING. Also don't forget the rheostat. I replaced mine with the " Protizmo" from protizmo.com which is used exclusively for LED applications. It basically just plugs into your existing rheostat and allows you to dim the leds if needed. Mine were perfect as they were so I really did not need it.
Like anything else on our 928's, just take your time, double-triple check everything and enjoy the results.
Marine 928
Last edited by marine928; 11-02-2014 at 08:37 PM. Reason: typo
#2
Rennlist Member
Nice work, I really like the way the LED's illuminate the Dash, controls and indicators.
Although in my cars I haven't replaced the actual warning bulbs and I used the three replacement Dash LED's that "Hooked on Cars" was selling.
Could you please list the part numbers and where you used them?
I'll be pulling the Dash out of the Gold 86.5 this winter to replace it w/ a leather/alcantera one from Classic 9.
Thanks!
Dave
Although in my cars I haven't replaced the actual warning bulbs and I used the three replacement Dash LED's that "Hooked on Cars" was selling.
Could you please list the part numbers and where you used them?
I'll be pulling the Dash out of the Gold 86.5 this winter to replace it w/ a leather/alcantera one from Classic 9.
Thanks!
Dave
#3
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: South Elgin, IL
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Nice work-- Do you have any details on what you did with the switch illumination? I recall something in the forums on this previously, but it seemed like it wasn't a simple LED bulb replacement.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
Rennlist Member
Hi I used these from Super Bright, one of the two sites he listed, they are plug and play (although some trimming of the Bulb end so it fits nicely in the socket may be needed, hardest part is removing the old bulbs
74-W Cool White @ $1.19 each
Dave K
74-W Cool White @ $1.19 each
Dave K
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I found that the easiest way to remove the small bulbs was with a small set of needle nose pliers with the tips wrapped in elect. tape. I also put a couple of drops of Dexoit into the fitting then grabbed the blub and moved it side to side, back and forth until it was loose. It came out very easy.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rifitz,
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...g-to-leds.html
Ed Scherer
This explains the procedure. Pretty simple and very easy to perform.
Lon
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...g-to-leds.html
Ed Scherer
This explains the procedure. Pretty simple and very easy to perform.
Lon
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dave, I believe that they were Part # LSMCC-B2X3-LP Blue and CW2X3-LP Cool White. I have a couple left over if you want them just pm your mailing address and you can have them. ( 2 blue, 2 white)
Lon
Lon
#11
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Dave used # 74 T5 37 2721 from http://www.autolumination.com/74.htm for warning and
74 LED wide angle SMD wedge base from superbright for the pod switches.
74 LED wide angle SMD wedge base from superbright for the pod switches.