Schocki

Easy

From left to right again 7 cm, 8 cm and 8.8 cm.
I also made a short video of the change and how the motor rocks with new mounts. Go to YouTube and search for "Porsche 928 Motorlagerumbau auf Volvo Lager".

Hasta luego
Schocki

Captain_Slow

These will be my primary resources:

1. HarborFreight engine support bar: http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html (I got mine on sale for $60 I think).

2. Dwayne's MM write up: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-tomorrow.html

3. From MrMerlin (Stan) https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pictures.html

4.This thread

Have the motor mounts and silicone gasket (both from Roger) ready to go. Just waiting for all this nice weather to go away so I have reason to put the car up on stands awhile.

NOTE: Lots of folks doing this job notice some interference with the safety hooks. Two or three pages into the thread started by Stan you will find this solution, provided by Stan:

"Bart Jan asked a question and i now have more info to address his concerns
That is the the fingers touching after the mounts have been installed,
this is due to the mount being a bit taller than some of the previous versions,
and or the mount not settling as much as the earlier versions.

Here is how to fix it.
once the mounts are installed and you have aligned the fingers of the lower pads to the mount hooks,
(this can be done by tapping the finger pad with a screwdriver)

If the fingers are touching then it is easily fixed.

To do this you need a 1/2 inch drive extension and a 17MM socket and a jack.
the extension has to be about 6 inches long.
so put the socket and extension on the 17mm bolt thats next to the mount hook.

Put the jack under the extension and very carefully jack the extension onto the bolt,
this will lift the engine and the hook,
thus pulling the finger pad with it,.

NOTE.... WARNING .....you dont need much lift ,
you only need to see the finger move ever so slightly.


You can jack the car off the stands if your not careful.

If, after a few tries this still isnt enough,
get a drill bit or dowel and slide it between the finger and the mount hook,
then jack the socket extension,
this will easily bend the finger just enough to clear,
as the mounts settle in there will be more clearance.

Wisconsin Joe

I said "straight forward.'

I didn't say "simple", "easy" or "fast."
On purpose.

It is at minimum an "all day" project.

I didn't use the "Timber & Eyebolt" motor support, I used a standard cherry picker hoist. I also used a lift for much of the job. We had an engine support that goes across the fenders - it didn't fit. So when we got to the "Support the motor and unbolt the crossmember" part, we lowered the car to the point that the cherry picker would work and spent a lot of the time on our backs with the car about 3' up.

And I don' t forget what it's like to be a newbie. I remember it well.

You are more intimidated than you realize.
Take a deep breath.
Take another.

Say to yourself "It's just parts bolted to parts."

Because that's what it is.

Read through the writeups a couple times.
Someone posted a link to a MrMerlin thread. That's the one I was referring to, not Bill Ball (edited previous post).

Make sure you have a workspace that isn't terribly time limited. Expect it to take a while. (it will take longer than you plan, even when you plan for it to take longer than you expect).

Expect to get frustrated. Be willing to walk away from it for a bit if you need to.
Don't be afraid to come on here if you get stuck.

You can do this.

bureau13

I think I'm going to print out this pep talk post and keep it in my car at all times :-) Thank you

depami

And definitely expect to get dirty!

the flyin' scotsman

Not so bad if the source of the wood provides cutting service. The critical dimension is the length of the 4x4 beam so it fits the front hood (bonnet) opening and rests on the 2x4 supports at either end.

I only used one (I bought 2;front and rear) for the front lifting the engine by the bracket on the front of engine so the load is evenly balanced.

depami

Length isn't that critical depending on how you build it.

the flyin' scotsman

that is another way to go........don't know if Id trust being under the car with that set up.......IMHO

depami

Screws up through parallels well into cross beam. Parallels shaped to fit fender curve and counter bored to fit over fender bolts. Solid as can be.

Rob Edwards

Man, I haven't forgotten the newb experience of OPG & MM. Took me 2-1/2 days plus two house-calls by Dr. Bob, and the realization (with the help of the braintrust here) that I had been trying to install the motor mounts upside down...)

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...alignment.html

I never would have been able to finish the job without Bob's help, been trying to pay it forward ever since.

Make no mistake, this is a dirty, multiple day, PITA job. If your undercarriage has any residual dirt or grime on it, let step #1 be a professional steam cleaning job before you start taking anything apart. This job is tough enough without being covered head to toe in 28 years of oil, ATF, and dirt. Especially if you're going to drop the pan and install a new OPG. Cleanliness is king for that job....

depami

I threw clothes away when done. ^^^

Also, I ended up doing it twice because I didn't know my mounts were defective until I had them installed. The second time was a breeze.

MFranke

The cleaning is what takes the longest. You'll probably spend some time with the oil pan too getting to all the fasteners, some of which on the front are particularly tough to get to with a wrench.

The HF hoist that goes across the fender lips works just fine. Engine should lift easily. If no movement make sure you are not missing any bolts.

It is a very satisfying job when you are done, with a smooth engine and knowing everything is clean.

the flyin' scotsman

sorry I should also have included clothes, rags, cleaning etc etc...........its a project that when you get into it and the effort to get all apart you will take great pride and pleasure in getting it all back to factory (and better with the new mounts).

print off Dwaynes write up and read it twice or three times so when under the car all shall be clear.....we are here to help..........good luck

bureau13

I think that advice on cleaning first is particularly relevant with my car. It is absolutely filthy under there! I'm sort of afraid that the caked-on grime is sealing up all the oil leaks, but better to find out sooner than later. So step one, clean that crap off, or my friend with the lift will never let me come back...

Rob Edwards

When you are having it professionally steam cleaned, make sure that they lift the hood and blast the top front lip of the oil pan and the front face of the oilpan. The front five oil pan bolts are the hardest to get to, and are usually the most deeply embedded in grime.

At least 10% of this crap will end up on your hands/face/eyelids, and your spousal unit/GF/dog will not let you back in the house: