greatwhitekc

To save a bunch of $$$$, I'm going to do my own 60K service. I searched this forum, and some others, hoping to find a list of things included in this service, to no avail. I know it includes the following but I'm not sure about other things:

1. Oil/filter change
2. Air filter replace
3. Fuel filter replace
4. Brake fluid flush/refill
5. Radiator flush, refill
6. Sparkplug replace??????
7. Other?????

Pelican sells a 'Tune Up' kit that includes all of that. Any info out there?

I read some info on this forum, and others, about K&N air filters. My car came with one. I'm trying to decide if I should recharge it or replace it with a paper filter.

Also, anybody have any info on the rear wiper part in the lift gate itself? The motor seems to work, the wiper doesn't move.

Thanks for any information!

polecat702

Run with the paper air filter. Throw the K&N in the trash.
Timing belt/water pump if ya don't know when it was last done, or if it's the first time. It isn't a hard job at all. Just takes time. Trans service, if it's an automatic, fluid change, and filter. Plus the items you've mentioned above.

Just money and time. These cars are fun to drive, and it's more rewarding if ya work on it yourself. At least that's my opinion.

BTW, if ya do the TB/WP the tensioner is a must also. I use Ken's tensioner, but there's 2 schools of thought on that subject, and your choice.

Bilal928S4

Depending on year, you might add
Spark plug wires
Rotors & cap
I second paper air filter
Check motor mounts
Flush power steering fluid
Replace power steering reservoir (has built in filter)
Check oil pan gasket
If it's an S4 or later check play in the thrust bearing

Bilal928S4

Forgot the most important ones.
Replace Fuel lines dependent on age. All of them.

rnixon

Which model and year do you have?

At the age these cars are at, it really depends upon what has been done over the last few years. For example, the coolant might not need replacing if it's the Porsche lifetime one. Brake fluid is recommended to be flushed every 2 years.

You may need to replace the trans and power steering fluid too.

Otherwise, the fuel lines *must* have been replaced since new and the cam belt should be (with the water pump) every 6 years ideally (IMO).

OTR18WHEELER

as for spark plugs, no need for the expensive ones, just get the normal cheapo copper plugs. and like any car, you can extend the life of the caps by cleaning the electrodes, unless the cap is cracked, no need to replace at 60K. If they are original wires, they may be brittle, use much care when removing the wire ends from the plugs. The boots are easier to remove when pulling from the bottom as opposed to pulling from the top, as the boots create a vacuum seal, breaking the vacuum hold aids in removal.
Even if not replacing the brakes, a fluid change is needed, a mighty vac type pump is a 'must have' to simplify bleeding the brakes.

77tony

List year, model & trans type, etc in your sig. This could help determine the priority of what your car needs.02 T

928NOOBIE

when removing the wires..if you are going to re-use them...go get a wire puller...they are ribbed underneath and are difficult to remove..you don't want to damage them.

A post on here recommended putting a little WD 40 or similar jjust inside the top of the boot to help break the ribbed part loose...It definitely helped..I have a set of BERU wires on the car a copule years old..and brother they are on there...but be careful....yank a little too hard and you'll impale a part of the car into whatever part of your hand (or little finger) hits too hard when it suddently "pops" loose

Also, don't yank on the elbow itself...pull from the top...a puller is best..or gently [pry maybe using a urethane forked interior door panel remover..be careful..I've read posts where the bottom part of the wire separated when pulled out and is tough to get out...

When installing...make sure the plug socket rubber doesn't stick too hard to the plug ceramic...you get to spend time fishing the plug socket out when the socket extension pops off...I used just a dab of white silicone grease after the 5th time of playing fish-out-the-socket by gently working it.....

Check the gaps on all the plugs..I got the recommended BOSCH copper..great price but gaps were not consistent...I gapped at .765...recommendations are .7 to .8.

Also on torque..use an anti-seize or something to prevent galling and other..I sprung for nickel anti-sieze which is safe for aluminum..do not use copper based; it will react and ugly things happen. The nickel stuff wasn't cheap..a tub was 50 bucks..but a lot of the car is aluminum...including in my case the lug nuts so lots of areas get a dab of Nickel based anti seize...

Torque is recommended 18-22 lbs..I've read you can do this but most posters opine they do less...I chose 15.5 with an extension or two on there...

Do NOT install the plugs without some sort of anti-seize..it both lubricates the installation and allows the torque not to get lost on resistance..and makes sure you can remove...

Above all...take your time...our girls don't like to be rushed...they want to have a conversation...if you rush it you will either screw something up or get to take stuf back apart because you forgot something...my favorite is the air trumpets after I've bolted the cross bar back down..not a biggie to undo...but if you are under the airbox and need to take that back out...well let's just say my neighbors know it...