Leon Speed

Ok I tested the starter again. First tested the solenoid by putting plus on the ignition feed of the solenoid. Sparks are flying. The gear will come out but stays stuck in this position until I rotate/push it back in position. Then I tested the motor itself. Many sparks once again, the motor spun very shortly once, but otherwise just sparks. Opened it up but nothing broken that I can see. So nothing conclusive. I am guessing the starter is about done after 25 years.

Schocki

Get a new, or factory rebuilt starter, don't waste your time with the old one...

Mrmerlin

from the info provided your starter may be OK,
BUT since you have it out and if you have a rebuilder that you trust let him take a look.

NOTE the starter will make lots of sparks while ground testing if the connections are not good since its a hi draw unit

Alan

You really need the starter held securely in a large vice, with ground (case) & power connections (main lug) bolted on using at least ~4AWG wire - then with a short pigtail connected to the main lug - activate the solenoid by connecting the pigtail to the small lug.

You can't replicate this 'loosely' - you are trying to pass several hundred amps on the main connection - poor connections won't allow anything close to this... Sparks mean you have a very poor connection.

Alan

Leon Speed

Tried it again with more secure connections and still some sparks but not as many. The motor spins but not all the time. I am getting a new starter and having this one rebuilt if possible. No sense using a rebuilt one if it will act up in say two years. Did I just contradict myself here?

In the meanwhile I want to rule out any wiring issues by measuring resistance across the plus cable from the battery side to the starter side. How much Ohm would be a good value?

dr bob

None.

With the millivolts that modern DMM's use for checking resisitance, that fat cable will read zero ohms or so xlose to it you'll see more resistance from oxidation on your test probes than you might through the cable. Easier to read voltage drop through the cable under full accessory load (lights-AC-wipers-HVAC blower-etc) with engine off, then decide whether the cable needs more attention.

FWIW, I was trying to find some system voltage loss, and -thought- I saw enough drop through the positive cable that it would be worth replacing. Found some nice 0-gauge marine battery cable with tinned strands, fabbed and installed the cable, and... it made no difference. Except it looks really nice and sweet in the original clamps and fittings. Problem turned out to be the battery ground strap.

STRIKEMASTER

Had the same problem. Ordered a starter from 928Int'l and when it arrived, the Bakalite end cap was broken. When I called them they shipped me another one that day! (Cant' say enough good for these guys) New starter in, twist key- whru-VaRoom!!! a WHOLE NEW CAR!

Leon Speed

To close this one out. The IMI starter is in and has a nice super car whine. I don't miss the old distinctive starter sound.

OTR18WHEELER

no one mentioned the starter relay.

Alan

The starter relay wasn't really a factor here... when the starter doesn't engage at all - the starter relay is suspect - not really otherwise.

Alan