Alternatives to " LIFT BARS" please?
#1
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Alternatives to " LIFT BARS" please?
Hello,
(1980 928s 5 speed euro/ ROW)
According to the website "lift-bars", the product is unavailable for earlier model years, and the newer lift bars cannot be used for my car.
I would be interested in any alternative solution for safely lifting the 928 (beyond 4 separate jack stands) ?
I would like something along the lines of the lift bar design if possible.
Ideas please?
Thanks!
Dan
(1980 928s 5 speed euro/ ROW)
According to the website "lift-bars", the product is unavailable for earlier model years, and the newer lift bars cannot be used for my car.
I would be interested in any alternative solution for safely lifting the 928 (beyond 4 separate jack stands) ?
I would like something along the lines of the lift bar design if possible.
Ideas please?
Thanks!
Dan
#2
Electron Wrangler
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Find a local welder/metal workshop and have him make some custom for you car - along the lines of Ken's liftbars... use square stock & fabricate the ends
I know Ken sells the just the ends - would these ends work on an early car (I think not - but Ken would know) - this might make it even easier.
Alan
I know Ken sells the just the ends - would these ends work on an early car (I think not - but Ken would know) - this might make it even easier.
Alan
#3
the ends would work on the front, but the main issue is the rear bar bends and curves. if i remember correctly that is why he does not make the early ones anymore do to the cost/time to make them. but a good fab shop should be able to make a set local. in the end that would save money on shipping..
#4
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What is so unsafe about putting a jack under the front crossmember and installing 2 jackstands. Then going and putting a jack under the rear crossmember lifting it up and installing the 2 rear jackstands. Takes only about 10 minutes. Never had any issues, movement, or slipping. Just don't jack the front up to the max height of your jackstand so you don't have a huge incline. Go about 1/2 way and then come back around and lift it up to the max jackstand height the 2nd time around.
#5
What is so unsafe about putting a jack under the front crossmember and installing 2 jackstands. Then going and putting a jack under the rear crossmember lifting it up and installing the 2 rear jackstands. Takes only about 10 minutes. Never had any issues, movement, or slipping. Just don't jack the front up to the max height of your jackstand so you don't have a huge incline. Go about 1/2 way and then come back around and lift it up to the max jackstand height the 2nd time around.
#6
What is so unsafe about putting a jack under the front crossmember and installing 2 jackstands. Then going and putting a jack under the rear crossmember lifting it up and installing the 2 rear jackstands. Takes only about 10 minutes. Never had any issues, movement, or slipping. Just don't jack the front up to the max height of your jackstand so you don't have a huge incline. Go about 1/2 way and then come back around and lift it up to the max jackstand height the 2nd time around.
#7
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the ends would work on the front, but the main issue is the rear bar bends and curves. if i remember correctly that is why he does not make the early ones anymore do to the cost/time to make them. but a good fab shop should be able to make a set local. in the end that would save money on shipping..
I also use the front/rear lift method, but start by driving the front of my car onto a low (~4" tall) set of wooden ramps I made. I originally made the ramps to allow me to roll a car on & off corner-weight scales without need to lift it, but they also work well for gaining a bit of extra room under low cars when you need to use a floor jack.
The ramps are very simple. Basically two, 2x8 boards with beveled edges nailed together. The bottom board is about 3' long with some non-slip material glued to the bottom, the top board is about 2' long. You can make two ramps from a single 10' length of board. The beveled edges are nice, but not essential. The non-slip surface is far more important.
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#9
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#11
Drifting
I use Carl's auxiliary jacking point. You can actually build them yourself. It goes over the delicate bottom member, and if you place it in the correct position, you can lift one side, place the jack stands and then the other side.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...jackpoints.php
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...jackpoints.php
#12
Nordschleife Master
Well....
I've got a cradle thing I use. It's 2 long 4x4 beams sandwiched between plywood and stretches beyond the car width. On that I mount small piles of plywood that go to the official lift points and keep the beams off the exhaust and sheet metal. I need to jack the car a bit before, and put it on stands, before lifting on that. That contraption is lowered onto by ricks of short 4x4s and is very solid. Usually I hold the front that way and, if the rear needs to be lifted, too, then I support the tranny cradle with a big tree stump (wood chopping block.)
That's a good arrangement for major engine service or suspension work. Not good for tranny or clutch work.
The way you jack it really depends on the work you're going to do. Jacking the car is usually a short process compared to the work. I just make sure it's held appropriately for the kind of work and the forces needed.
I will dive under to inspect things with just the jack...but I don't trust the one Harbor Freight jack and always add a jackstand for that.
I've got a cradle thing I use. It's 2 long 4x4 beams sandwiched between plywood and stretches beyond the car width. On that I mount small piles of plywood that go to the official lift points and keep the beams off the exhaust and sheet metal. I need to jack the car a bit before, and put it on stands, before lifting on that. That contraption is lowered onto by ricks of short 4x4s and is very solid. Usually I hold the front that way and, if the rear needs to be lifted, too, then I support the tranny cradle with a big tree stump (wood chopping block.)
That's a good arrangement for major engine service or suspension work. Not good for tranny or clutch work.
The way you jack it really depends on the work you're going to do. Jacking the car is usually a short process compared to the work. I just make sure it's held appropriately for the kind of work and the forces needed.
I will dive under to inspect things with just the jack...but I don't trust the one Harbor Freight jack and always add a jackstand for that.
#13
I use Carl's auxiliary jacking point. You can actually build them yourself. It goes over the delicate bottom member, and if you place it in the correct position, you can lift one side, place the jack stands and then the other side.
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...jackpoints.php
http://www.928motorsports.com/parts/...jackpoints.php
#14
Chronic Tool Dropper
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This morning's H-F emailed ad has a "lift crossbar with safety chains". It's not as elegant as Ken's bars, but might help some with getting the car up safely. For pre-S4 owners who want to lift by the crossmember for instance, this will lift by both ends by the suspension pickups and the frame.
http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...eam-60762.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/merchan...eam-60762.html
#15
Three Wheelin'
I had a buddy fabricate a pair and he did a great job.
I'm not an early model but even so, you need careful measurements even on the S3. Those jack point holes are usually beat up and shifted from previous mechanical specialists.
I'm not an early model but even so, you need careful measurements even on the S3. Those jack point holes are usually beat up and shifted from previous mechanical specialists.