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How do you professional mechanics do it?

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Old 07-29-2014, 03:52 PM
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Leon Speed
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Default How do you professional mechanics do it?

I just replaced the coolant tank. It was the second time I removed the tank so I thought it would be rather quick. Well, between the nearly impossible to get at screws and clamps, a cross threaded nut on the attachment bracket and my back killing me from leaning far over the fender, it took 4 hours. Four hours!

I have (mostly) all the tools I need, could use a bit more room and lighting, but if I would work on a 928 professionally I would be quickly out of business. Either I am the worlds slowest mechanic or you guys have really small hands.
Old 07-29-2014, 04:22 PM
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MainePorsche
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I do it as a pastime, and I am slow and deliberate - I always have a warm cafe at hand in between 'triumphs'.
That coolant reservoir is a bear - maybe this is one of those jobs that the pros get what they can, and possibly take a little hit on the time - hopefully they balance it out with the other jobs at hand.
Old 07-29-2014, 04:38 PM
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Rob Edwards
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I have worked (for lack of a better term) at Greg Brown's shop for a week in April each year for the past four years. it's usually perfect weather, 60-80 degrees, no rain, no humidity. Grant and Greg work from 9-6:30 or 7PM. I treat it like a fantasy camp, helping move cars in and around the shop, mopping up dropped fluids, learning all the day-to-day shop activities.

What I can tell you is that by Wednesday of that week, I have whole-body pain from all the physical labor. Greg's got 5 lifts and a quarter million bucks worth of tools, but it is an asskicker of a week, for me, at least. And Greg is 60-ish, and doesn't even flinch.

I can't even imagine trying to keep up with Sean when it's 100o all day long in DFW.

My hat is off to you guys who are earning a living working on these (or any other) car.
Old 07-29-2014, 04:49 PM
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kmascotto
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I have to ask, I just replaced my coolant tank with a brand new one...and it seems the new tank is smaller than the old tank. The fastener location on the side of the tank closest to the windshield wiper filler neck comes short of the mounting bracket on that side...
Old 07-29-2014, 04:51 PM
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MainePorsche
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
...My hat is off to you guys who are earning a living working on these (or any other) car.
Absolutely.
Old 07-29-2014, 05:17 PM
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dr bob
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Drain the radiator, but no need to drain the block.

The "pinch" bolts at the rear get a 1/4"-drive 10mm socket, a universal joint and a long extension to the ratchet up above the fender height. Front is relatively easy.

The bottom hose clamp is accessed from the bottom of the car, with a socket on a long extension. It's a skin-ripping job from the top but it can be done. Undo the clamp at the reservoir end first. Remove the vent lines, being mindful of the fragile pressure switch. Pull the connector for the level switch. Remove the reservoir.

Replace ALL the heater hoses if they are more than 5 years old. Easy with the reservoir out and the air cleaner housing removed. When installing the stub section under the reservoir, tighten the forward clamp to the steel tubing before trying to fit the reservoir. Set the clamp for the rear end connection so it will be easily accessible from below. Slide the reservoir part way in, with room to see the bottom nozzle and get it into the the hose. A tiny bit of K-Y works wonders here, by the way. Finish the top install after you get that bottom hose clamp snugged up correctly. Small hands help with setting the top bolts, but I usually cheat by adding a little black electrical tape to hold the bolts in the socket. Tighten part way, then remove the tape, finish the tightening. I'm not averse to taping the socket, universal and extension together just so nothing falls apart during surgery.
Old 07-29-2014, 05:42 PM
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Short of the KY jelly that's how I installed the new tank. But...once I bolted the tank to the mount location by the firewall....the other bolt location would not line up...just to short (by at least an inch). Its like the tank is smaller than the original tank.
Old 07-29-2014, 06:31 PM
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karl ruiter
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I'm a pretty good amateur mechanic and I have a careful touch and I know what I am doing for the most part but a buddy of mine who is a pro is MUCH better. Part of it is just physical strength. He can bring quite a bit more torque to bear and he can keep at it all day.
Old 07-29-2014, 07:02 PM
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Reddog2
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Originally Posted by Rob Edwards
What I can tell you is that by Wednesday of that week, I have whole-body pain from all the physical labor. Greg's got 5 lifts and a quarter million bucks worth of tools, but it is an asskicker of a week, for me, at least. And Greg is 60-ish, and doesn't even flinch.

I can't even imagine trying to keep up with Sean when it's 100o all day long in DFW.

My hat is off to you guys who are earning a living working on these (or any other) car.
And don't forget the behind the scenes BS when customers commission work and don't pay, whine and moan, try to pull fast ones, etc etc.

My brother is a mechanic and I am off to see him in Aug to buy a customers engine rebuild project off him that he got stiffed on to the tune of 8 grand. A long time customer!
Old 07-29-2014, 07:13 PM
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my secret....i didnt put in all the bolts. there is no way to reach one of them, and i gave up.

it is not related, i hope, but for the life of me, each time i check my aluminium reservoir tank. it is empty.

at first i saw some drips near upper hose, and i clamped it better. maybe it is dripping on lower hose as well.

is it possible the lid is evaporating liquid? the car runs fine with no overheating

87s4 aut.
Old 07-29-2014, 07:18 PM
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MainePorsche
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Originally Posted by newworld
my secret....i didnt put in all the bolts. there is no way to reach one of them, and i gave up.

it is not related, i hope, but for the life of me, each time i check my aluminium reservoir tank. it is empty.

at first i saw some drips near upper hose, and i clamped it better. maybe it is dripping on lower hose as well.

is it possible the lid is evaporating liquid? the car runs fine with no overheating

87s4 aut.
If you're losing that much coolant without obvious puddles you could be leaking into the 'V' from the rear end of the valve heads from the bolt on each side that holds the FPR/Dampener bracket and goes into the water jacket. The water will not be readily obvious and will evaporate. If said bolt not torqued properly - leak. There is also a gasket there too.
Old 07-29-2014, 09:42 PM
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I have a few tricks for the coolant tank RnR,
the big one is to leave the lower hose on the tank and remove and install this hose with the tank.
The lower hose is removed from the metal transfer line isntead.
The only caveat is to make sure the hose clamp is oriented so it can be tightened at a later time from the bottom of the car.
Remove both of the top bleeder hoses from the tank,
as well and a 1/4 drive 10mm swivel socket is mandatory

The washer fill tube should also be removed to gain better access ,
and also to assist in cleaning of the washer tank ,
and removal of the metal collars, this is a separate job
Old 07-29-2014, 10:25 PM
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Has anyone experienced hearing the sound of water flowing while driving in the cold? In the winter in NY I remember starting my car up and letting it warm up. I would then hear the sound of water flowing. This thread just made me think about it. The last mechanic I took it to changed to coolant, he was in CA. Is it possible the coolant iced over?
Old 07-29-2014, 10:52 PM
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GregBBRD
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Most mechanics can "beat" the flat rate to do a job.

Virtually impossible to do on a 928.

We rarely exceed 6 hours of charged time for an 8 hour day, when working on 928's. (When working on a 911, we can easily reach 12 hours of charged time in an 8 hour day.)

The cars are tougher to work on...which makes them more interesting, but far less profitable.

We joke that although we make less money when working on the 928's, we make it up in volume....
Old 07-29-2014, 11:57 PM
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1989porsche928
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Funny post, when I lived in San Diego I remember looking for someone to change the timing belt / water pump on my 928. I was very confused to call Porsche Mechanics and have them tell me they don't work on 928s.
Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Most mechanics can "beat" the flat rate to do a job.

Virtually impossible to do on a 928.

We rarely exceed 6 hours of charged time for an 8 hour day, when working on 928's. (When working on a 911, we can easily reach 12 hours of charged time in an 8 hour day.)

The cars are tougher to work on...which makes them more interesting, but far less profitable.

We joke that although we make less money when working on the 928's, we make it up in volume....


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