MainePorsche

Guys,

Ready to throw in the towel.
Had a bearing issue L fan - noted motor looked like it was just hanging on internally - replaced bearing. Motor then died - would draw but not turn - would blow both fuses - replaced fan with new - both worked just fine for a day.

Now, NEW fan doesn't turn. Went over wiring when had shroud out by two times - looks fine - no defects - re-insulated. Both fuses intact. No function of fan when idling warm or with AC on.

Wiring ? I did such a thorough job going over all of it.

Where to go now.

Thanks in Advance.

Craig

GregBBRD

Swap wires from right fan to left fan. (You may have to extend the wires for the right fan to reach the left one.)

Report back.

NC928S4

Assume you've rechecked power at FAN plug and tested FAN with direct battery power.

I can ship you a spare fan for testing tomorrow if you need one.

Larry

MainePorsche

Simplicity usually works best...my thinking cap I left in the house.
Is late - will do tomorrow.
Thanks

MainePorsche

No Larry, I haven't done any diagnostics yet. I just noted it.

MainePorsche

Was able to reach in and do a quick check of voltage at the plug when AC activated - 0.0v

Kevin in Atlanta

Well, I wonder if the final stage fan controller gave it up.

MainePorsche

I'll go under and re-evaluate all wiring tomorrow. Do plug swap to confirm NEW fan didn't have a lethal MI (doubt it's the fan). I don't recall the diagnostics regimen in the WSM, but I can go through them tomorrow.

Is there any kind of quick check continuity/resistance values I can go through at the controller ?

Kevin in Atlanta

I thought, and i am no expert, that the left fan not running was a symptom of a failed final stage controller, but will yield to other that are not electron-impaired as I am.

Bertrand Daoust

I really like that expression Craig!
It surely applied to me last week when I re-installed my intake with the driver's side rear coolant lid installed the wrong way.
Had to remove everything today to fix that stupid mistake. Well...

Good luck with your little problem.
I'm sure you will get everything to work well soon.
Like always.

GregBBRD

I've got a "test" fan amplifier unit that I ship around the country....so people can figure out if their amplifier is bad, before sending theirs to me, to have it rebuilt.

MainePorsche

Couldn't resist doing a little look/see tonight.

Function Test at final output harness:
Pin 3 & Pin 4 - 12.4v ignition OFF (Pin 3 - Ground)
Pin 3 & Pin 2 - 11.0v with ignition ON - supposed to be 'battery voltage'

Function Test Control Signal at Controller
Pin 7 & Pin 6 - 19.2v with engine running, 17.2 engine OFF/ignition ON - Both have AC button depressed/engine warm - supposed to be approx. 7v
Pin 7 & Pin 8 - same conditions - both 0.0v (Pin 7 - Ground)

Only R fan operational.
Most likely final output done.
Still will confirm wiring OK and will swap fan connectors tomorrow.

****

Just one note, on my Deoxit rounds I treated the final output harness. Small amount collected at base of some of the male pins on the unit. Was told this stuff was non conductive. This was done when I last noted everything working correctly. Now it isn't.

Do you think this could be more than coincidence as some of the pins might be in 'contact' ?
Perhaps it is my wishful thinking.
To note, I used Deoxit 100 liquid via needle applicator.

MainePorsche

Thanks Bertrand.
You are always the gentilhomme noble.

MainePorsche

Thanks Greg.
I already owe you one you know.
I'm pretty sure the amplifier is done. I will confirm tomorrow, but with the results I got, it seems there is no control signal output for the L fan.

BTW, I'll be transitioning over to a larger hub shortly and matters will be put right on my end. The item that I owe you will be more easily transported from there as opposed to from PI, ME and I will be in the position to do so.

MainePorsche

Guys would the following be an at risk issue for the my car's electrical system ?

My final output amplifier has failed. Only one fan functions. My above testing per the WSM I believe shows this failure to be the case. I had been driving the car for a week with one fan while waiting for my new one to arrive - never got 'hot' except for one time when I purposely made it do so by remaining stationary for a reason. I live in rural Northern Maine - the climate and traffic patterns are not problematic, and my car is exceptionally tuned in all systems.

I was thinking about this until I get a rebuilt amplifier unit.

Disconnecting the fan harnesses and running them off of a direct fused power line through a two stage/speed switch. My one fan now is receiving 19.2v with the engine running - that won't work for me. I have a convenient place in mind for the switch. Actually, I will rarely use it up here. I will do this for a brief period until I have the funding for the amplifier - I have had a recent calamity in my life which has thunderstormed on my parade - will be behind me shortly.

Does anyone see system issues in doing this ?
Please let me know. I don't want to run on one fan with a 19v feed for long.

Thanks