Hub Cover Removal
#17
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I initially used an exhaust clamp 50mm IIRC and lever with a pry bar. When this kept pulling off on a stubborn hub cap I then improved by buying another exhaust clamp, discarded the U Bolts from both, then used both of the C shaped pieces clamped together with two long bolts.
#18
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I initially used an exhaust clamp 50mm IIRC and lever with a pry bar. When this kept pulling off on a stubborn hub cap I then improved by buying another exhaust clamp, discarded the U Bolts from both, then used both of the C shaped pieces clamped together with two long bolts.
I like the idea of the long bolts and the two clamps together.
#19
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Persistence and more than gentle tapping. Work around the cap by turning the rotor. The piece of scrap oak flooring I use is tough enough to handle the job pretty easily. I just don't like leaving character marks on the parts, and the exhaust clamps will do that for you.
#20
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#21
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rest assured that NOTHING you will do levering on it is anything close to the forces encountered on a high g corner......I just tap lightly with a hammer and walk it out but I do leave marks
It really wants to come out ! Also worth mentioning that if the bearings need to be tightened they probably need to be changed and inspect the alloy hub as well as I have pushed the bearing race into the race with all my track time.....so serious loads involved.
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#22
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Thanks Jim.
Now is just a quick inspection. I'm not having a known issue with them. I plan on new rotors soon, and when I do this I plan on doing the whole refurbish of the wheels.
Now is just a quick inspection. I'm not having a known issue with them. I plan on new rotors soon, and when I do this I plan on doing the whole refurbish of the wheels.
#23
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I just did it with a 2" exhaust clamp ($2) and a crow bar. With a hammer I could not get enough leverage. And take off the rotor first to get a better angle, put the butt of the crow bar on the hub between the studs.
#24
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I followed your job - looks great - nice work.
#26
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I get a screwdriver about 5/16" dia shaft , place it in the groove between the hub and the cap, tap the side of the shaft, round and round, and it eases out with little effort...
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
#27
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#28
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I have had good success using a ball joint pickle fork and a hammer. The fork has a slight angle that gives you a better approach angle. Using the fork allows you to tap the cover on two points at a time that seems to help.
#29
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I use a 9165 and a Harbor Freight slide hammer, works in about 5 seconds. ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
I'm headed to the post office tomorrow with some other 928 parts, I could toss it in the mail to you if you like.
I like the sound of the round screwdriver shaft in the groove, that's crafty.
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I'm headed to the post office tomorrow with some other 928 parts, I could toss it in the mail to you if you like.
I like the sound of the round screwdriver shaft in the groove, that's crafty.
![](https://webfiles.uci.edu/redwards/public/9165%20dust%20cap%20puller%20in%20action%206-20-11.jpg)
#30
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at first ole Bob wondered what hub yer talkin' about... oooohkay, that one. I'm a stickler for greasing bearings and went there when I first bought mine. PO had done a crappy job of setting the clearance too. I have new bearings in a box that I really should install. I welded an attachment on a muffler clamp that works well with a small slide hammer.