'83 Alternator Light Stays On/ No Volt Gauge
05-18-2014, 07:10 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
'83 Alternator Light Stays On/ No Volt Gauge
I am still very new to the 928 imo and could use pointers from those with more experience.
I've removed a lot of power accessories form my car and tried to be very careful while doing so.
Since doing the project I now have a condition in which the Volt Gauge is dead and the alternator light stays on. I have a good spare Volt gauge from Mark and have tried both.
I am also having trouble figuring out which terminal on the Right side of the pod feeds power to the Volt Gauge because the
labeling is not legible.
(Before this problem arose I sent my Pod to North Hollywood Speedometer for "reconditioning" and it came back with a 2" deep scratch in the lens, not
confidence inspiring)
I think i had already started removing power accessories though, so i cannot say it was definitely after North Hollywood took the instrument panel apart that my
Volt Gauge and Alt light remain on.
Anyway with the ignition switch in the ON position, all lights are lit and after the car is started they all go out bit the ALT idiot light.
I have taken my alternator out and had it checked by a pro i trust. It is good.
To excite I have to rev the motor slightly off idle. I have started the car and checked and the alt does not wake until motor is revved.
I have replaced the exciter wire to the Alternator as it had the usual fatigue and was bad, it now has continuity btwn Pin 1 and the alternator. I also checked the small blue wire at Pin 1 to Term O8 and continuity exists here as well.
I have removed many power accessories such as the door window motors, Sunroof, Mileage counter and much more.
I did notice that Terminal H8 is part of the elaborate route to extinguish the Alt light and that one of the 3 blue wire (H8) one looks to have gone to the mileage counter.
The fact that i have deleted so much stuff makes this tough. I have had the instrument panel checked by North Hollywood as i mentioned and they found nothing wrong with the printed circuit.
With key in the On position I do NOT have 11 + Volts on the male pin at Term O8 location. I believe this power would come from the charge light and resistor in the Instrument Pod via terminal 3R.
With the key in the On position, H8 (with three small blue wires) has 1.2V but if "O" Terminal is unplugged, it with jump to 11 + Volts.
If anyone has a hunch to speed this trouble shooting along please share.
Thanks, Matt
I've removed a lot of power accessories form my car and tried to be very careful while doing so.
Since doing the project I now have a condition in which the Volt Gauge is dead and the alternator light stays on. I have a good spare Volt gauge from Mark and have tried both.
I am also having trouble figuring out which terminal on the Right side of the pod feeds power to the Volt Gauge because the
labeling is not legible.
(Before this problem arose I sent my Pod to North Hollywood Speedometer for "reconditioning" and it came back with a 2" deep scratch in the lens, not
confidence inspiring)
I think i had already started removing power accessories though, so i cannot say it was definitely after North Hollywood took the instrument panel apart that my
Volt Gauge and Alt light remain on.
Anyway with the ignition switch in the ON position, all lights are lit and after the car is started they all go out bit the ALT idiot light.
I have taken my alternator out and had it checked by a pro i trust. It is good.
To excite I have to rev the motor slightly off idle. I have started the car and checked and the alt does not wake until motor is revved.
I have replaced the exciter wire to the Alternator as it had the usual fatigue and was bad, it now has continuity btwn Pin 1 and the alternator. I also checked the small blue wire at Pin 1 to Term O8 and continuity exists here as well.
I have removed many power accessories such as the door window motors, Sunroof, Mileage counter and much more.
I did notice that Terminal H8 is part of the elaborate route to extinguish the Alt light and that one of the 3 blue wire (H8) one looks to have gone to the mileage counter.
The fact that i have deleted so much stuff makes this tough. I have had the instrument panel checked by North Hollywood as i mentioned and they found nothing wrong with the printed circuit.
With key in the On position I do NOT have 11 + Volts on the male pin at Term O8 location. I believe this power would come from the charge light and resistor in the Instrument Pod via terminal 3R.
With the key in the On position, H8 (with three small blue wires) has 1.2V but if "O" Terminal is unplugged, it with jump to 11 + Volts.
If anyone has a hunch to speed this trouble shooting along please share.
Thanks, Matt
Last edited by The Fixer; 05-19-2014 at 09:55 AM.
05-19-2014, 10:40 AM
#2
Drifting
Thread Starter
Document troubleshooting 1983 5 Speed
Symptom: Alt Light stays on, Volt Gauge dead.
Going out again to check the circuit.
Check keyed power terminal (15) at ignition switch
Alternator light is lit when key is turned to the 'ON' position,
so we know there is power at terminal (15)
Now from the alternator light to the CE panel. (this is where i beleve the problem is,
because there should be power at male pin (O8) and there is not
with key in 'ON' position.
I am thinking possible problem may be that power comes into the Instrument Pod at Terminal 3R
but does not exit the Instrument Pod via Terminal 11R and on to the CE panel to energize male pin (08)
to excite and begin charging.
Continuity has been checked at Terminal 14 Pin #1 in both directions.
I am also curious about my disconnecting the mileage counter (as seen in above pic) there is a blue powered lead from (H8) to this device. This blue wire has 11+ volts when the key is in the 'ON' position as it should. But obviously does not run through the mileage counting device anymore. I do not have a diagram for my '83 btw which is a problem now.
Anyway i'm thinking the problem must be within the Printed Circuit or behind the CE Panel (will check that again soon)
Again, I don't have a good electrical diagram for my '83 5 Speed. I am sure there is something good i can link to.
Does the symptom of a dead Volt Gauge 'ring any bells' in terms of ideas..
Note:
I still, do not know which Right hand terminal #s on the Instrument Pod energize the Volt Gauge for my '83 as the labels are no longer legible.
BTW, my car has had a intermittent dead Volt Gauge issue starting about 15 years ago, it has progressively gotten worse. I have a replacement gauge in there now that was tested i assume by 928 INTL before i purchased it.
All other gauges and warning lights are good within the Instrument Cluster.
Going out again to check the circuit.
Check keyed power terminal (15) at ignition switch
Alternator light is lit when key is turned to the 'ON' position,
so we know there is power at terminal (15)
Now from the alternator light to the CE panel. (this is where i beleve the problem is,
because there should be power at male pin (O8) and there is not
with key in 'ON' position.
I am thinking possible problem may be that power comes into the Instrument Pod at Terminal 3R
but does not exit the Instrument Pod via Terminal 11R and on to the CE panel to energize male pin (08)
to excite and begin charging.
Continuity has been checked at Terminal 14 Pin #1 in both directions.
I am also curious about my disconnecting the mileage counter (as seen in above pic) there is a blue powered lead from (H8) to this device. This blue wire has 11+ volts when the key is in the 'ON' position as it should. But obviously does not run through the mileage counting device anymore. I do not have a diagram for my '83 btw which is a problem now.
Anyway i'm thinking the problem must be within the Printed Circuit or behind the CE Panel (will check that again soon)
Again, I don't have a good electrical diagram for my '83 5 Speed. I am sure there is something good i can link to.
Does the symptom of a dead Volt Gauge 'ring any bells' in terms of ideas..
Note:
I still, do not know which Right hand terminal #s on the Instrument Pod energize the Volt Gauge for my '83 as the labels are no longer legible.
BTW, my car has had a intermittent dead Volt Gauge issue starting about 15 years ago, it has progressively gotten worse. I have a replacement gauge in there now that was tested i assume by 928 INTL before i purchased it.
All other gauges and warning lights are good within the Instrument Cluster.
Last edited by The Fixer; 05-19-2014 at 11:49 AM.
05-19-2014, 11:46 AM
#3
Drifting
Thread Starter
more information
There is 11 + volts with key 'ON' at Terminal 3R into Instruments as i thought.
Nothing at Plug O terminal 8, (O8)
Only 1.2 Volts at plug H terminal 8 (H8) with plug O connected
but.. there is 11 + Volts at H8 when plug 0 is disconnected.
more back story:
I removed my central locking which led to a no-start due to factory alarm.
To correct this I had to jump plug Z terminals 4 & 6 to correct this. (see pictures)
I suspected the alarm could cause more issues and left the alarm brain and it's wiring intact..
I think i am getting close to correcting this..any thoughts on the most direct approach are appreciated.
Nothing at Plug O terminal 8, (O8)
Only 1.2 Volts at plug H terminal 8 (H8) with plug O connected
but.. there is 11 + Volts at H8 when plug 0 is disconnected.
more back story:
I removed my central locking which led to a no-start due to factory alarm.
To correct this I had to jump plug Z terminals 4 & 6 to correct this. (see pictures)
I suspected the alarm could cause more issues and left the alarm brain and it's wiring intact..
I think i am getting close to correcting this..any thoughts on the most direct approach are appreciated.
05-19-2014, 01:45 PM
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
Changed jumper, measured voltage on O8 w/ 14 Pin Unplugged, Key ON: 11V
(14 Pin plugged in with Key ON but Alternator at rest: 1.5 V @ O8, should be 0 Volts, thoughts?
Anyway started the car and now the Alternator warning light goes
out immediately. Thanks Alan, you really are a wealth of information!
My Voltage meter is still limp though. Any idea which R terminal supplies power to the Volt meter. My printed circuit labels are no longer legible..
Thanks again Alan, if you were here i'd hug you! (you're lucky)
Last edited by The Fixer; 05-19-2014 at 02:22 PM.
05-19-2014, 02:03 PM
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
Alan,
Your thoughts on properly removing the bit of wire harness associated with the factory alarm system (and alarm brain) are greatly appreciated.
It no longer serves a purpose and should be removed.
There are leads into the engine bay as seen in pic 1.
Also any thought on termination of the mileage counting device. I simply insulated the ends to prevent contact when working on the car. (pic 2)
Your thoughts on properly removing the bit of wire harness associated with the factory alarm system (and alarm brain) are greatly appreciated.
It no longer serves a purpose and should be removed.
There are leads into the engine bay as seen in pic 1.
Also any thought on termination of the mileage counting device. I simply insulated the ends to prevent contact when working on the car. (pic 2)
05-19-2014, 03:14 PM
#7
Electron Wrangler
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
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Member
Everything connected back to the stock plug Z for the alarm can be removed.
~1.5 volts on the exciter wire with engine not running and ignition on is about right.
Mileage counter - you can trim back all those connections to the CE/pod sources or just insulate and leave alone, none need to be reconnected. Your Oxy light will never come on.
Alan
~1.5 volts on the exciter wire with engine not running and ignition on is about right.
Mileage counter - you can trim back all those connections to the CE/pod sources or just insulate and leave alone, none need to be reconnected. Your Oxy light will never come on.
Alan
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05-19-2014, 06:46 PM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Everything connected back to the stock plug Z for the alarm can be removed.
~1.5 volts on the exciter wire with engine not running and ignition on is about right.
Mileage counter - you can trim back all those connections to the CE/pod sources or just insulate and leave alone, none need to be reconnected. Your Oxy light will never come on.
Alan
~1.5 volts on the exciter wire with engine not running and ignition on is about right.
Mileage counter - you can trim back all those connections to the CE/pod sources or just insulate and leave alone, none need to be reconnected. Your Oxy light will never come on.
Alan
Matt
