DKWalser

The advantages of a drain plug/temp sensor are that it's reversible (just put in a new drain plug) and that it's far easier to install (no need to remove the oil pan or try to drill and tap with the pan installed). The downside is oil changes are slightly more difficult and, if you ever bung up the threads of the drain plug, you'll need to start over. So, I think the drain plug approach is best for temporary set-ups and the other for permanent installations. YMMV.

Alan

I agree completely - however once you have struggled with oil temperature issues - having a permanently installed sensor does seem like a better idea. It's easiest to start with a temp drain solution to evaluate the oil temp issue - but if you do have a real issue: fitting a permanent sensor (when convenient - other work etc) has advantages for long term monitoring.

Even if the guage isn't actually mounted permanently - its nice to be able to quickly check that everything is still running as expected - thats how I use it (along with a few other similar non-permanently installed gauges).

Some would not want to mod a stock car - but Jake isn't one of those!

Alan

Rob Edwards

Permanent oil temp sender, when the pan is off for whatever reason:

mark kibort

you don't need an oil cooler. just run good oil. air oil coolers in traffic don't work anyway, and our water to oil cooler is pretty effective. at keeping the oil below 200 even on the hottest days. we race these things at over 250F for many seasons of racing with out oil related failure issues. so, I wouldn't worry about it. I never see the oil above 220 on the hottest days, and if im not driving hard, the hottest day oil temp is just around 190.

mark kibort

if you want a simple oil temp system there is a dipstick VDO system. easier to revers than a drainplug, for sure and easier to wire up. ive been racing with it for over 10 years now. seals fine

BC

Luckily this is Jake and he knows not to listen to a word Kibort says.

Speedtoys

Especially since he has not READ the thread before commenting.

Alan

Mark - Jake doesn't have ANY oil cooler. Late cars only have air/oil - and no it doesn't work well - so they need more.

Interesting on the dipstick temp sensor - hadn't heard of that one before - a very easy temp solution for sure.

Alan

Bjbpe

Years ago I added an oil temperature gauge (not in my 928, thank God). I'm just cautioning about doing stupid things like I did. I drained the oil and ran a non-flammable solvent (Stanasol) through the crank case to assure all oil was out. I then brazed the sensor in place. Even with the solvent completely drained and flushed with compressed air, some oil still got into the braze making for a poor joint. Had to remove the pan and completely clean the braze to assure a good joint. Moral is Remove the pan to get a good oil-free braze.

Tony

typical stop and go in vegas in July.....
notice the stock needle position and the warning light...two different circuits???? I dont trust the stock gauge anymore.
I have my oil temp like Robs, but tapped into the drain plug.
Water temp on the crossover, next to the stock sensor.

UpFixenDerPorsche

I went through this last summer. Temps ranging up to 45C (113F).

Any sort of brisk work saw the gauge temp at 95C BUT with the oil pressure
struggling to see 3 Bar @ 3500rpm. Usually 5 Bar in 'normal' weather.

Did all the usual cooling system checks, including oil cooler thermostat. All OK.

Wait on! Oil cooler separate from radiator (unlike in my '89S4).

Now where is that cooler? Buried below the radiator and behind not only the chin spoiler but also behind protective metalwork. Not a cooling fan in sight.

What's more, impossible to inspect or clean.

So someone tell me: what's the point of it? Porsche make a hotter motor, then put the oil cooler where it clogs and can't be cleaned, gets no airflow, doesn't even bother with cooling fans, then asks the coolant radiator to pick up the slack in hot crawling traffic?

IMO just lazy engineering that can't be defended whichever way you look at it.


Pics are self explanatory I think.


It's in there somewhere ....




Ooooooh there's a bit.




Tsk tsk.




Has a chance of doing its job. And now does very well. Now only a 3/4 Bar oil pressure drop vs 1.5 before. Yes - very exposed, but working on that.




Oil temperature:

$35 digital thermometer. Flexible lead w/ J-thermocouple down dipstick tube.

Ambient temp at top of 2000ft climb.




Before oil cooler unshrouded and cleaned:

Oil temp in sump at the top of that climb (3000-5000rpm 2nd / 3rd gear).
Oil temp at the cams? 110C = 235F.

hacker-pschorr

Swap in some AMSOil and you will see those temps instantly drop by at least 20 degrees.

UpFixenDerPorsche

See my post for more detail.


110C = 235F.

"oil coolers in traffic don't work anyway" ...

Not smoking something are you Mark?

Coolant radiators don't work in slow traffic either Mark, if they haven't got cooling fans.

ptuomov

UpFixenDerPorsche:

I think a clean heat exchanger is great, both inside and outside.

However, I don't think the factory shroud is that bad, and I think it's better than no shroud. The holes needed to match the flow rate thru the heat exchanger are surprising small, and I think the shroud makes some effort to keep large debris out. I am sure the shroud can be improved, but my experience is that - as far as the air flow planning goes - factory engineers were no dummies even in the 1980's.

L_perm

1991 S4 here. Is the heat exchanger at the top front of my radiator not an oil cooler? I've been thinking it is.

LP