17prospective buyer

There are a couple options, reverse drill bits, easy outs, left hand tapping the inside, or drilling the bleed orifice bigger so i can hammer in a Torx bit, which is sort of the same thing as an easy out. Of course if those break you're even more screwed over. That happened to a water pump bolt extraction attempt and many other times in my experience.

dr bob

Take a look at a Kibort thread that includes some suggestions. It's an intereesting read, but the fun starts at about post 30 or so.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-one-next.html

Hilton

Whats the bleeder in?

If its into an alloy casing, I'd try heating it nice and hot, then MIG welding a nut to it - the extreme heat from welding will help, and then stick a socket on it and unscrew. (note - heating it first before welding helps a lot on small fittings otherwise the weld is too poor and turning nut will just snap the weld off the broken stub)

17prospective buyer

One of the bleed nipples for the front calipers (Brembo M030's). I had taken the calipers out for paint, and was in the process of replacing all the bleed nipples. I had used a heat gun to get them warm, but it takes a LONG time to get those brakes hot, which is why they're so good/what they're supposed to do. I wish i had a MIG, all i have is a stick welder, and those are both not as precise, and striking the arc is either hit or miss unless you preheat the substrate and the rods before using.

BTW personal recommendation for guys in Ontario is Quys Coating in Brampton, Quy is a great guy. I've taken enough things there now that for the intake job he discounted it quite a bit, just handed him those instructions that Ed made (thanks Ed btw) for masking and baking and it turned out great. He painted my calipers, mainly because i didn't want to open another big job with rebuilding them, still a very durable finish. He also does high temp finishes for exhaust, did my Devek Level 1 headers in red.