mark kibort

I cant find the thread, but someone said that the next race pad I should try is the porterfields. correct??

Ive used the pagid Black RS14, which is the pads the Porsche supercup guys used. I liked them, but don't think they are the best.
Ive just tried a set of the Performance friction PFC-01, which is the most aggressive bad out there, and liked it a little better than the RS14 pagid

So, whats next ?? HAWK DTC 70s or the porterfields? and if the Porterfield, what is the part number... I really want something a little better than the pagid. I have a little fade at laguna into turn 2 from 130mph and I want to fix that. the pads on the S4 are kind of small, so the pad performance quality is going to be important. (even though using 13" rotors)

I think SpeedToys had a suggesting based on some real life data.

thanks
Mark

GregBBRD

Describe "fade".

James Bailey

Greg from what Mark just posted on another thread.... "ok guys, funny that this discussion is going on now....... I was leasurly changing my brake fluid at the track after practice. pedal felt a little soft and thought I would put some better fluid as the PFC-01 pads were able to boil super blue (not the best im told) at laguna, so what the heck. well, did the two man technique and after I was done , the pedal went to the floor. it would pump up and then 10 second later, it would go to the floor. could that be air?? anyway, proceeded to carefully bleed the system and burned through a pint of fluid and still it was aweful. had to go out and qualify with almost no brakes, just to get a lap or two in. the pedal came back , briefly after 3 laps, only enough for the brakes to engage without pumping them. maybe the temp in the calipers pushed out some air to the reservoir. anyway, I survived and came in with a pretty slow time, but a time that would at least have me mid way in the grid.

and then I attacked the bleeding. where I was only doing the front two calipers before, I did the rears too, with the standard method of farthest to nearest. I only could do the outer caliper bleed screw, the inners were way jammed up and stripped. after this, the pedal came back. not great, but good. a little nearve racking in the race knowing the brake feel wasn't perfect, but it was good enough to put down some reasonably fast laps and have some fun. NOW, I want to get the brakes back to normal. does this sound like a master cylinder problem. or just air in the line due to not being able to bleed through the inside bleeder valve on each caliper (I think only one worked and it was a rear). ?

whats the symptom to brake MC failure. the fact that I had a firm pedal when I was braking and it wasn't hitting the floor, and the pedal height didn't change under braking , tells me that the MC is working, and I probably have air, but ive never had this kind of issue before. ive always been able to bleed the system with only the outside bleeder, AND even change the calipers from the holbert to the donor chassis this way. but this weekend showed that something changed or my luck just caught up with me. some air got in the system that might not have been able to be flushed.

thoughts?? ..."


With stripped bleed screws.....does pad choice really matter much ?

Carrera51

Mark:
You could try the Performance Friction 11 Compound. Aggressive bite like the 01, but more rotor friendly and more consistent torque across the temperature range. Let me know if you need more information.

http://www.ogracing.com/performance-...ad-11-compound

Kind regards,

john gill

Stripped brake screws!

and wondering why the brakes don't function correctly !

ROFALMAO

(rolling on floor laughing my *** off )

dr bob

I'm in constant awe of folks that go out with a known list of small issues like almost no brakes at all. !!! Consider that you could go out and have a shunt, and maybe not at all your fault, and it comes out that you are driving with known bad or no brakes. Try this: Next time something like this happens, ask the stewards and your fellow racers if they mind you driving the race with no brakes. What would you answer if another racer proposed the same thing? Here's your sign!

Stripped bleeders? Readily available from our usual suppliers. Better brake fluid? Try one of the Motul race fluids if you think the problem is actually the fluid. Get a case of liter bottles, and renew for every race. Pads? Who needs 'em if the hydraulics are known to have failed.

IcemanG17

Raybestos ST41 with ST43 in the rear.....AMAZING....works for nascar at 3500lbs and 800+ hp....This is what Sean and I both run on our Big Red brakes.... I had pagid oranges on the widow and didn't like them.....Jeff recommended Raybestos as did Evil Genius Racing so thats what I put on the Estate and loved them.... Just try them, you will be hooked!!!

IcemanG17

I know the GTS pad is AP 594 and the rear is AP 608...not sure about the S4 front

Speedtoys

What he said.

If you have a rear bias, maybe ST42 because its very EVEN across the temp range, and works nicely with adjustments..being the same pad at all tamps.


If not..43 rear as it'll rise and fall with the fronts.

James Bailey

Does having the stock 3 channel ABS make any differences besides making "trail Braking" much easier to do ? No worries about washing out the front end...!

And good question about the proportioning valve for rear/front bias ??

TrackDays247.com

Try RS29 YELLOW - we gots em...........

drnick

Loved the RS29 on my road car!

Seriously though - i think the problem might be air/old fluid in the system if you can't bleed the callipers.

mark kibort

coming down to turn 2 laguna or turn 13 at thunderhill from 130mph and on the brakes HARD to slow to the turn . the only way to do it, during a race after things are hot, is to do a lot of trail brake into the turn. also, have to release the brake for a split second and re apply .
so definition of fade? pushing harder and harder and having less and less stopping power only at the end of a very long decel.

mark kibort

i dont need rotor friendly. we are talking racing applications here. the PFC 01s were marginally better than the pagid blacks which were a huge step up over the oranges of the day. but thanks. i think i want to try something with better fade resistance


you can still bleed the calipers via the connecting cross over but its not as effective. the brakes when they work, still work. the pedal is firm, just farther down than i would like it. ive always done bleeding with the 1 bleeder busted. for some reason, i couldnt get it to work.

I trail brake to bleed off even more speed than the brakes could do in a straight line.... highly effective in racing environments, at the cost of beating your front tires up. its the only way to get through turn 2 with my entry speed

dont need an endurance pad, as i heard, they last forever, but are not as good as the RS14s, right?

mark kibort

Thats the part number and manufacturer! thanks

(brian and Jeff)

so, what do you mean, if i have rear bias? and the rears being St43, means they can come in with out the same temp to be more effective?
i have very little rear bias. the car stands on its nose, so im not so worried about the rear. right now, pagid blacks in the rear and they are still good after changing out the fronts 5 times already!

so, ST41 is the grippiest pad?? where do i buy?

thanks

Mark