kawi825

Was taking a look at their site, seems most people really like their setup. i did an air pump delete on my 78, capped heads, etc, but i HATE hearing the short belt after eliminating the air pump, it whirrs terrible. So, on their site, they mention being willing to give nice discounts on group buys, Just wondered if there was any interest. I'd be very hesitant doing this with an unknown produce but these seem like nice kits. Just thought i'd throw it out there and see what everyone thinks..

Jetdriver69

I installed a single fan FFDynamics kit on my 82 after an engine rebuild and engine driven/aux fan/ air pump/CAT delete. They also offer a dual fan kit. The larger single was recommended for the Texas heat.

Anyway, the kit was very high quality and very easy to install. The only modifications that was necessary was to cut down the fan shroud and cut small holes on the shroud lip to allow for the mounting clips for the fan housing. You will see what I mean when you dry fit the fan and try to mount the top half of the fan shroud/air tubes. It has dual power relays for redundancy and two types of temp probes (a free air probe and tappable radiator or hose coolant probe).

My engine did have temp problems before the installation, it got hot in traffic which is common for the early cars. After install, no more temp problems. In fact, I had to turn up the potentiometer on the fan control to allow the engine heat up a bit more before the fan comes on. Now it comes on when A/C is selected regardless of temp or when the coolant hits about 185-190F. The temp line on the gauge is steady in the middle with OAT to 100F. The fan supposedly draws less amps than the electric aux fan and I have no problems with a stock alternator with lights on, AC on and 1200 watt stereo playing.

My only recommendations are to buy a couple of the cheap power relays (about $2 each off ebay) to keep in the glove compartment just in case and to mount a cheap led light (ebay $5) somewhere in the interior to see when the fan does come on. The kit has a power lead installed for this purpose. Also mount the power relay control as high on the fender wall as possible to keep rain from splashing on it. These cautions are explained in the instructions.

I'm very happy with the kit and the price was right. Enjoy!

kawi825

Yours was one of the posts I was easing about these. Glad it works well. I need to get rid if the new shirt belt we put on after eliminating the air pump, the belt noise interrupts the sweet sound of the motor.

danglerb

Half the time the best deal you can get from a group buy with all the mess of a group buy is no better than one of the normal online sellers. The other half of the time doesn't turn out as well, YMMV, good luck.

kawi825

Hi all, Jetdriver, would you mind putting up, and sending me some installed pics of mounting? Finally bought this kit this fall, and my kit gives some ribbed plastic leads to pull through the rad, and cinch some plastic grooved washers to tighten it up on the radiator directly. i don't like how tight the tie straps squeeze into the finned area to try to poke through the other side, it is terribly tight and it just doesn't feel right doing this. Also, the cooler on the front is in the way anyway when you try to access the front side. yours sounds like it was mounted to the shroud, wondered how/why they changed. fan and misc parts look very nice but i don't like the way they want you to poke things through your radiator.. I'll try to post some decent pics of my install for anyone looking to possibly do this.

Jetdriver69

Yes those mounting studs go through the radiator fins. Haven't had any problems at all with them. They are thin enough not to cause problems with a Behr or aftermarket rad and way strong enough to keep the fan close to the rad.

I had to break them to do a WP job and sourced new ones from NAPA, about $10 for 4.

Between this fan and the 928 Motorsports aluminum radiator, the car runs almost too cool in the Texas winter weather.

To fully calibrate this fan after installation, put the bayonet probe in very hot water. Mine was measured at 185-190F with a cheap eBay IR gun. Then turn the potentiometer screw on the fan control until the fan comes on at your desired coolant temp.

Then gently push the bayonet temp probe through the rad fins at the top passenger side of the radiator. This will not damage the fins, but go slow.

My coolant gauge was not too accurate (I guess most OB gauges are not) so I connected a variable resistor between the Temp sensor and the pod coolant gauge. This way I can calibrate the gauge to the actual coolant temperature measured with an IR gun.

Works like a charm and the gauge is accurate now.

Jetdriver69

The first picture is of the installation.

Second pictures shows the temp probe near the passenger side top of the rad.

Third shows a mounting tab, but my kit came with an aluminum housing the radiator mounts to. Does your have a housing?

Fourth shows the variable resistor to adjust the coolant gauge. Mounted passenger side near 14 pin connector.

Fifth picture shows the extra wiring to the temp sensor. I put new 90 degrees female connectors on the sensor wiring. I ran the car's temp + & - wiring to the resistor and a second set from the resistor to the temp sensor. Now I can move the coolant gauge to show middle of the gauge when the coolant temp is 185-190F.

kawi825

great pics thank you. No, mine did nit come with a mounting plate, wish it did, i really don't like the fact they want you to not only poke through wit hthe plastic barbs, but also mount the black hard plastic feet right on the radiator fins, and the plastic i would think would vibrate/rub against the radiator day in/out.

I'm going to at least add some flat rubber washers or something in between this and the radiator. time to get to work this week..

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Hi Matt,
I ordered their 16" fan, without any other parts. It is a beautiful fan (with substantial ball bearings and very smooth, quiet operation) and I already have a fan controller. I mounted mine as a pusher, since I have a big supercharger on the engine side of the radiator. I also don't really trust those plastic pig tail fan mounts, but I hear people say they are OK.
Good luck,
Dave

kawi825

Made a little progress today, seems they've changed kits a bit. no mounting plate with mine, but does have a set of redundant relays in case one goes bad, and an adjustable pot for temp setting. I mounted the fan after buying a few extra 1/8 rubber washers, tested fitting the top shroud back on just in case, worked great. I found a spot down low on the pass/ side of the engine bay under the 14-pin connector with a couple 8mm or so threaded holes (what were these holes for?) in the frame rail. i mounted the relays and control module on a piece of acrylic and drilled it out to mount on those holes, using some rubber o-rings behind it to hopefully absorb vibration a bit. It seems to work good, close enough to get to power, ground, the fan, etc. Just need to try to keep things neat, there are quite a few wires. Dave, i fired it up with a 12v power supply, you're right very quiet. hopefully tomorrow i can get the wiring going a little more and start to button it up.

j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net

Looking good Matt. Like your tools and terminal box.
Dave

Jetdriver69

My fan did come with the aluminum housing, but you have to cut the upper fan shroud and can't use the lower shroud at all.

Be sure to mount the relays as high on the engine bay as possible to keep any water from splashing on them.

I moved mine after a couple of times of rain water coming from underneath the car. I also sealed the edges of the relays with a very thin smear of silicon caulking. Not enough to glue it in place, just enough to keep any moisture out.

Seems to work in the rain just fine now.

kawi825

Jetdriver did you find a switched ignition source close to the 14-pin connector? trying to keep wiring as short and contained as possible, need to get back out there wit ha multimeter. I also have the AC switched wire to attach to, wonder if yours came with that wire too? switches the fan on every time you power up the AC. Thanks again.getting close

Jetdriver69

My power lead is hooked through the CE panel.

Yes I have the same AC switch. Fan comes on with AC regardless if temperature or when the coolant is 185F.

I also mounted a green LED idiot light ($5.00 off eBay) that was threaded through the wire bundle by the steering column. The light is by the drivers right knee.

The light shows when the fan comes on, nice to know when it is warm outside or to ensure the AC compressor is working.

You should have a extra wire from the fan controller to power a light.

928NOOBIE

I have also installed an FF Dynamics system on my '86. I got the dual fan set up and am testing the system by using the radiator fan switch only...so far it's been working well.

I will be making an adjustment once I get the AC fixed..but so far it does a great job.

Echo comments above about quality..great system and so much quieter than the "pusher" fan that also gets removed.

Only thing for '86 is the fan mount has to remain since the throttle mount requires it...but I got a puller and got the clutch driven fan assembly + pulley removed.

Very happy with result..car was having trouble running at proper temp (too cold)...esp. in winter. Without air being pulled through the front at stoplights etc the car runs at proper temp and runs much better as a result.

They are also very responsive to questions; very nice people.