Ready to install my engine what other items look at before going into the engine bay
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 700
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ready to install my engine what other items look at before going into the engine bay
Here is a list of items I have done/replaced to the engine:
Rod bearings
Crank
Crank bearings
lapped cylinder walls
Rebuilt Heads and gaskets
New cam tensioners
GB fuel hoses
silicone vac lines
crank sensor
knock sensors
Full Intake refresh c/w intake spacers
fuel injectors
oil pan spacer
spark plugs
spark plug wires
'O' rings everywhere
Oil pump service
OB style oil pick up
new clutch hose
OEM motor mounts
exhaust manifold fasteners and gaskets
new exhaust c/w 'X' Pipe (to be installed after engine in place
fixed wiring harness connections and wires
Porkensioner
Water Pump
Gaskets throughout
TB
Hoses if not in almost new shape.
Sharkvent
Need the following:
small starter for Oil pan spacer
SuperMAF for 2 stage VCB supercharger being installed
Need to determine state of Clutch specs
Will be looking at A/C and HVAC after installed unless better to do it now.
It has been 4 years since I started the process. Should the Master Cylinder and booster be serviced replaced? Were working fine when removed the engine. Anything I should do before shoehorning it back in?
Rod bearings
Crank
Crank bearings
lapped cylinder walls
Rebuilt Heads and gaskets
New cam tensioners
GB fuel hoses
silicone vac lines
crank sensor
knock sensors
Full Intake refresh c/w intake spacers
fuel injectors
oil pan spacer
spark plugs
spark plug wires
'O' rings everywhere
Oil pump service
OB style oil pick up
new clutch hose
OEM motor mounts
exhaust manifold fasteners and gaskets
new exhaust c/w 'X' Pipe (to be installed after engine in place
fixed wiring harness connections and wires
Porkensioner
Water Pump
Gaskets throughout
TB
Hoses if not in almost new shape.
Sharkvent
Need the following:
small starter for Oil pan spacer
SuperMAF for 2 stage VCB supercharger being installed
Need to determine state of Clutch specs
Will be looking at A/C and HVAC after installed unless better to do it now.
It has been 4 years since I started the process. Should the Master Cylinder and booster be serviced replaced? Were working fine when removed the engine. Anything I should do before shoehorning it back in?
Last edited by Livio928; 04-18-2014 at 03:25 PM. Reason: additional items added
#2
Rennlist Member
Good luck with the install- you deserve a good result. I would ensure the motor is running well before fitting the supercharger-doubtless your plan as well.
Regards
Fred
Regards
Fred
#4
What about the coolant resevour? Much easier to deal with when the engine is out arent they?
I would service the clutch master and brake master before the engine goes back in. Rebuild kits are cheap, and then you know they are 100%
Good luck.
I would service the clutch master and brake master before the engine goes back in. Rebuild kits are cheap, and then you know they are 100%
Good luck.
#5
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
If you plan on changing the AC hoses to support leak-free R12 or R-134a use, get them rebuilt now while the access is easy. One is long and wraps around the pass side of the engine bay. If you need to remove it and take it to a shop for rebuild with new hose, it's almost impossible to do it with the engine installed. For sure replace the o-rings at either end of the fuel cooler while you can easily get wrenches on it. Get the seals at the expansion valve and probably the expansion valve itself too, while lines are loose in clamp at the rear the engine bay.
The steel Y-pipe for coolant on the right fender wall is a rust-through item on undermaintained cars. Check yours and decide if t needs replacement. Much Easier to do that now with the engine out. Regardless, the coolant hoses between there and the reservoir, there and the heater, are much easier to change with the engine out.
Power steering hoses are easy to work on now. Replace any that are original.
Clean Everything Really Well.
The steel Y-pipe for coolant on the right fender wall is a rust-through item on undermaintained cars. Check yours and decide if t needs replacement. Much Easier to do that now with the engine out. Regardless, the coolant hoses between there and the reservoir, there and the heater, are much easier to change with the engine out.
Power steering hoses are easy to work on now. Replace any that are original.
Clean Everything Really Well.
#7
Rennlist Member
Here is a list of items I have done/replaced to the engine: Rod bearings Crank Crank bearings lapped cylinder walls Rebuilt Heads and gaskets New cam tensioners GB fuel hoses silicone vac lines crank sensor knock sensors Full Intake refresh c/w intake spacers fuel injectors oil pan spacer spark plugs spark plug wires 'O' rings everywhere Oil pump service OB style oil pick up new clutch hose OEM motor mounts exhaust manifold fasteners and gaskets new exhaust c/w 'X' Pipe (to be installed after engine in place fixed wiring harness connections and wires Porkensioner Water Pump Gaskets throughout TB Hoses if not in almost new shape. Sharkvent Need the following: small starter for Oil pan spacer SuperMAF for 2 stage VCB supercharger being installed Need to determine state of Clutch specs Will be looking at A/C and HVAC after installed unless better to do it now. It has been 4 years since I started the process. Should the Master Cylinder and booster be serviced replaced? Were working fine when removed the engine. Anything I should do before shoehorning it back in?
Trending Topics
#8
Three Wheelin'
Jeff i wouldn't really call it special, just uncommon and less accessible, less overall experience with the process. If more engines were made this way it would be a standard process just like honing regular blocks.
#9
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 700
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was wondering who was going to catch that one. Good on you. You can claim your prize within 24 hours by driving up to Canada and pick it up from my shop which is closed on the Easter holiday weekend
#10
Rennlist Member
Brake master, clutch master and slave replace or rebuild most definitely.
I rebuilt my a/c hoses and replaced o-rings with the engine out.
Upper a-arm r&r if needed with new shocks while the engine is out.
Good luck!
I rebuilt my a/c hoses and replaced o-rings with the engine out.
Upper a-arm r&r if needed with new shocks while the engine is out.
Good luck!
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Gone. On the Open Road
Posts: 16,547
Received 1,678 Likes
on
1,088 Posts
Hall sensor?
Blue hose from reservoir to clutch master.
The high-pressure a/c line from condenser to fuel cooler.
Coolant overflow tank.
Never easier to get a SuperBearing rebuilt TT from Constantine.
Blue hose from reservoir to clutch master.
The high-pressure a/c line from condenser to fuel cooler.
Coolant overflow tank.
Never easier to get a SuperBearing rebuilt TT from Constantine.
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 700
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Unfortunately, I left it outside all this winter. Is it the hydroscopic effect that will allow the water to freeze in the containers and ruin the seals that is the problem? With these kits, is it just changing the seals and o rings? Not familiar with the procedure.
#14
Pro
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 700
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yup done.
is this the special hose that Greg B makes? if so Yup.
Got to look into that one, but I think it looks pretty good from my recollection.
Will look at it.
Is it necessary on a 5 spd?
is this the special hose that Greg B makes? if so Yup.
Got to look into that one, but I think it looks pretty good from my recollection.
Will look at it.
Is it necessary on a 5 spd?
#15
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
No, the water will be disolved in the fluid so it shouldn't be a problem. Most rebuild kits have seals and springs in then so changing then out is ewasy if you can grt the part out.