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Rotors and pads

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Old 04-26-2014 | 02:17 PM
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Thanks for the tip Bertrand, found your thread about separating the calipers. Now I have an excuse to buy an infrared temp gun

Would you happen to have the specs on the screws?
Old 04-26-2014 | 02:52 PM
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If you don't have a good feel for your ability to get those screws out, I'd leave them and invest the time with a file on the pad backing plates. They are soft steel and file easily. They need to be a snug fit so they don't squeal/vibrate. I use a very small flat file to detail the opening for the pad sensors too. Stamping is often less than precise, plus they get paint in there that makes fitting the sensors tough, future removal/reuse impossible. A little detaiiing with a file there and at the pad ends is a common requirement in my experience.
Old 04-26-2014 | 04:02 PM
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Just installed Sebro front rotors and Pagid pads on a customer 1990 S4 car. He asked specifically for the low price Sebro rotors. So far the brakes feels fine. With the old rotors and pads there were heavy vibrations at hard braking. No vibrations with the new parts.
Åke
Old 04-26-2014 | 05:03 PM
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dr bob: part of me says, leave the screws alone, but another part says, the pads should fit as they come (/filing is for hacks /can't stand that it is not right)). I am sure I will try to get the screws out. If I strip them I will invest in a large metal file.
Old 04-26-2014 | 05:25 PM
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Aryan,
I don't know the screws spec.
You get new screws and the plate in the kit.
Old 04-26-2014 | 05:57 PM
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Found some more info here:https://rennlist.com/forums/10238828-post2.html

Also - i *highly* recommend you remove the stainless plates at each end of the caliper, to blast and paint over (arrest) the pitting/corrosion that's behind them. To get them off, you need to heat the socket-cap M6 screws *really* hot before trying to turn them. If you don't, the corrosion will over time push the plates out and cause noise as well as issues fitting new pads. You can tell you got them hot enough as they turn out pretty easily - if its hard to turn, stop and heat more. If they round out, use a hammer/punch at an angle to start the head turning.
Screws look like M6 x 12 or 16.
Old 04-26-2014 | 06:54 PM
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Now I just need a way to protect the piston seals from the heat gun. Aluminum foil maybe.
Old 04-26-2014 | 08:54 PM
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Pistons are ceramic, so no need to worry about direct heat. Caliper is aluminum, and you'll have no luck trying to isolate the heat to just around the screws.
Old 04-27-2014 | 08:34 AM
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I was thinking about avoiding direct heat to the outside piston seals (the dust boots). Anyway I have changed my mind. Driving season is under way and I'd much rather drive than fix stuff currently. Rather than risking mayor caliper surgery I am taking a file to the pads. The rotors measure 30.8 so they will stay on for another season. The in the winter I have the time to do the whole job at a leisurely pace.
Old 04-27-2014 | 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MGW-Fla
Zimmerman & never a problem.
+2 don't skimp on pads, and other bits..... these cars need all the things that were originally designed with. Leave the anti squeal bits of, and they will squeal.



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