How was it again...if rotors are still ok then only replace the pads, if rotors are worn beyond spec then replace rotors and pads. Is that right?

Btw... I ordered new rotors with a Porsche specialist and received Sebro rotors. Normally I would buy ATE if I had the choice. Is Sebro an OEM supplier for Porsche? I thought that SHW (Schwäbischen Hüttenwerke) supplied all brake stuff for Porsche.

 

I have replaced rotors; front and rear using Zimmerman cast in hole products through Roger.

 

right no point having worn irregular pads have to machine that nice new rotor surface...just be sure to do a proper break in run to transfer some of that new pad material onto the rotors. There is a rather lengthy description in the workshop manuals about heating up the new pads and cooling them down for best performance.

 

My experience with Sebro is poor. Took a while for the pads to break in the rotors so they'd stop without pulsing. Both pads and rotors were new.

New pads can go with old rotors but I'd never do new rotors with old pads.

 

Ok thanks guys. I recall the break-in procedure from a few years ago. Something about 10 times breaking from a higher speed without coming to a complete stop. Need to read that again. Now if only my 33 bar brake bias valve would show up in the mail.

 

Aryan,

I have also had poor service from Sebro. I've used only OE, or Zimmerman for the past 10 years. Always good service life from them. I also like the EBC red stuff pads. NO break in with them - 500 miles of normal urban/suburban driving before any hard stops. Essentially NO dusting (have them on the GTS, the Audi A8, and the Sl55 AMG).

 

Zimmerman & never a problem.

 

Yes. Only replace rotors if below minimum thickness or you have a pedal vibration.

If it was me and I just put new pads in, say 1000km ago, I would surface the pads (have done it with a drum sander setup like a planer and made sure the pad was parallel). and use them still. If they are more than 1/3 worn, just put new pads on.

 

Thanks for chiming in guys.

Gary, what constitutes poor service in your case? Thanks for the tip on EBC red pads. I have Mintex Street pads to go in for the first time, not sure how much they dust. And if there's one thing I hate, is brake dust

 

Aryan,

Several years ago, I bought a set of fronts from a well known US Porsche parts seller (not Roger), and when they came, I noted that they were Sebro. Put them on, and within a half mile of driving (my first half mile is down a fairly steep hill), I had vibration in the steering wheel, from a rotor 'warping'. Changed sides with them (incorrect vanes, of course), and still had the same result. I sent them back.

IF you do not want dusting, I recommend highly that you return the Mintex. I've used that pad quite a bit over the past 10 years, and they might dust less than OE, but still quite a bit. The two pads I've found that are NEARLY dust free are the EBC Red Stuff and AKEBONO. I like the 'feel' and bite of the Red Stuff a little better than the AKEBONO. Both are ceramic pads. the Red Stuff uses Kevlar as the reinforcement for the ceramic matrix. I had AKEBONO on my wife's '05 Lexus, but put Red Stuff on the '07 Audi A8 that replaced it. For example, with the Audi, after about 6-700 miles of suburban/urban driving, the rear wheels are just as when washed, and the fronts are 99% as clean as the rears. (I should probably also state that I'm a bit biased about Kevlar, as I was involved in it's market development back about 40 years ago!!!).

 

I second the dust issue of the Mintex pads. Lots of brake dust, and no real difference from OE in my experience.

Cheers!
Carl

 

Ok thanks for sharing your experiences. Since I have them I might as well use them, lets see how it goes.

 

Hi Aryan,
The Mintex pads tend to squeak. I won't take them again. Textar is top.
Theo
1992 928 GTS

 

I have run into a snag with the pads. The new pads don't fit, they are too wide. The new pads are 131.8 mm wide, the pads which are in there are 130 mm. I have looked online at the specs of some pad manufacturers and all show 131.8 mm new. I assume the shop which did my brakes shaved a bit of the pads to make them fit. I have no means to shave these pads myself, no grinder or something like that. I took a close look at the caliper and it seems the steel liners - part nr. 12 and 12A in the picture- curve a bit inwards towards the sides. My guess is brake dust settles between the caliper and the liner and forces the liner inwards. I could try to straighten the steel liners but the screw looks pretty corroded and would hate to brake off the screw. So I am kind of stuck. Anybody have this problem before?

 

Yes probably there is rust or dust behind the metal plate.

If you want to remove those plates, you need to heat the screws first unless there's good chance you'll strip them!
I had to split the caliper in two to be able to remove those. After trying to remove them without heat and striping a few!