I'm soon going to be replacing the brake disks and pads (front and rear), adjusting the front wheel bearings and fully flushing the brake fluid. Is there anything else that I should plan to do at the same time? Anything to be extra careful of?

It would have been nice to do it this weekend (I'm off the the UK next weekend), but the weather forecast means that I'll be working on my outbuilding . I might take a day off next week instead - how long should I allow for the above?

 

Bleed them and check condition of wiring to each wheel.

 

I spent some time with spray galvanizing and paint on the new rotor hats, spray galvanizing only on the fins and the insides of the hat, both on the outside area. For paint I grabbed a can of Duplicolor wheel silver, followed with a dozen thin coats of their clear. Mask the friction areas, obviously.

FWIW, more wheel bearings get damaged/ruined by 'adjusting' than wear out in normal service. If yours are to the point where they need adjustment, they almost undoubtedly need replacement.

If you don't do these a lot, go real easy on the adjusting nut. No tool to tighten, just your fingers. A guide I use has them repacked, seated with 15 lbs/ft, roll the rotor couple turns, back off the nut completely, then draw it in again with no tools. Any preload is too much. The factory guidance is the ability to move the washer around by pressing on the edge with a screwdriver. Not prying, just pressing.

 

Some brake discs, like ATE, are coated - no hat spraying needed. If you are feeling competent and have cash stowed away, take off the brake calipers, remove the pistons and replace all inner and outer seals. It will cost you, the seals are only available from Brembo and IIRC only in combination with new pistons. Clean the caliper and repaint if needed. Replace the anti squeal pads. Replace the bleeding nipples. Replace the wear indicators if needed. Replace the brake lines. Be careful not to twist the hard lines where the nut attaches. Replace the hand brake shoes. Clean and lubricate the hand brake setting mechanism. Flush the brake fluid. You will need a power bleeder. Leave the wheel bearings alone unless you are replacing them. That's about it, easy peasy.

 

The calipers look pretty good. I'll leave the seals until they cause me issues.

I have new bleed nipples and dust caps, so those will go on.

I didn't know that it had shoes for the handbrake - my previous cars have had a cable to the caliper as well as hydraulics. I have a power bleeder, so that's covered.

Any idea of time to do this? I'll apply a suitable multiplier to avoid issues with the trouble and strife.

 

Pretty sure you can just get seal kits... Hope you don't snap any bleed screws.

 

I took two days for what I listed, but I am the worlds slowest home mechanic.

 

Thanks. I'll have to do the fronts first and see how much time I have left.