Flatbedding a 928
#1
Burning Brakes
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Flatbedding a 928
I have used the u-haul trailers in the past to transport a 928, which worked well. Now I am using a flat trailer (basically a flat double axle trailer used to transport a tractor) to pick up a 928 and go about 500 miles. Just wondering if anyone has any advice regarding strap-down points front and rear that would be safe and not damage the car. I'm thinking putting a strap through each wheel (Phone Dials) would be the desired way, but interested if there is any other way or better way that someone can suggest, and any photos of a 928 successfully flat bedded would be appreciated!
#2
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Up front, hook straight into the 2 tow hooks. Out back, loop the straps up and over the trailing arms. I installed some tow hooks out back and makes it much easier. Wouldn't hurt to bang some wheel chocks in front & behind the wheels for added safety. Would also help if you have trailer brakes and a trailer brake controller in the cab. T
#3
I prefer to have cloth straps through all four wheels. Less stress on the entire car and trailer.
#4
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Through or over?
I was really impressed with the wheel "nets" that came with my Uhaul trailer years ago. They went over each wheel, tied down fore and aft, and kept the car located very securely on the trailer but allowed the suspension to work. It was fun and interesting to watch the car twerk, mile after mile.
#5
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Over the tires is OK. Through the wheels is OK, but you really want to have some protection on the painted surfaces of the wheels, else even the cloth straps will trash a painted or finished metal surface in a very short while. Straps over the wheels work, but need to be anchored close to the wheel to avoid damage to the bodywork immediately fore and aft.
Strapping over the trailing arms is OK, so long as you don't try and use the lateral blades. Instead, use short straps around the trailing tube section, then ratchet to the rear inside the tires. These are the straps that will hold the car in place when you hit the brakes or something more solid, so they need to be done right. The fronts can use the factory tie-down hooks safely. Just be careful of the plastic around there.
Strapping over the trailing arms is OK, so long as you don't try and use the lateral blades. Instead, use short straps around the trailing tube section, then ratchet to the rear inside the tires. These are the straps that will hold the car in place when you hit the brakes or something more solid, so they need to be done right. The fronts can use the factory tie-down hooks safely. Just be careful of the plastic around there.
#6
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The wheels are vastly superior to attaching to anything which is part of the sprung chassis because when hooked to the chassis the cars springs will compress when you hit bumps dips in the road then rebound against the straps which greatly increases the load on them.
Clean new microfiber towels wrapped around the straps where the touch the rims do a great job protecting the finish....old greasy gritty straps ....not so good
I supervised well over 100 tows last year ! several from California to Texas.
Clean new microfiber towels wrapped around the straps where the touch the rims do a great job protecting the finish....old greasy gritty straps ....not so good
I supervised well over 100 tows last year ! several from California to Texas.
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Also the 928s are rather low, the big trailer may be too high and or the ramps too short. the front cover may bottom out or the side rocker panel get high sided. The typical flat bed wrecker needs at least a coupe 4 X 4 blocks , for my daughters two car open hauler trailer I made 4 foot long 6 inch high ramp extensions which we had to use for many cars.
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#9
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FWIW I recently used wheel nets with good success. As pictured here they're backwards; these are from Harbor Freight and are rated at I think 4k lbs each. Very solid. They have a hook end and a ratchet end. The hook end worked better going into the nearest trailer connection, while I hooked the ratchet end to a longer strap diagonally connected to the rear trailer connection. Car was rock solid on the trailer the entire time.
#11
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I noticed that, James. I have rings at all 4 corners, but that's it. Seemed odd! But then I looked at about a dozen other newer and more expensive trailers at the track and they were all the same way.
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Making car trailers is a very competitive business and low prices sell trailers......leave off $50 of "extra" hardware. One reason why I prefer open deck trailers is the access to all the cross bracing rails for tie downs....plus access to the bottom of the car like a hoist but they LOOK cheap.
#13
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As you can see i brought mine home with a uhall...if you use a uhall like i did, bring some 2x6 (short....10 to 12 inches) for two reasons...the ramps are steep and the nose of the car may not make the grade...and two when the car goes on the trailer...the nose will not clear the front of the trailer. So to lift the nose, use the 2x6 and drive the two front wheels on top of the 2x6's
see photo:
see photo:
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Up front, hook straight into the 2 tow hooks. Out back, loop the straps up and over the trailing arms. I installed some tow hooks out back and makes it much easier. Wouldn't hurt to bang some wheel chocks in front & behind the wheels for added safety. Would also help if you have trailer brakes and a trailer brake controller in the cab. T