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Alarm/Starter mystery

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Old 03-17-2014, 11:40 PM
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Mobius Rabbit
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Default Alarm/Starter mystery

Hello All,
I'm the newbie with the gray 928 that sold on ebay last month, and have a mystery on my hands. Just got home to Seattle after the 1,000 mile drive from San Francisco, car ran flawlessly. Parked outside to pick up my garage key card, when I got back in it wouldn't start. Turns over but that's it, no sound out of the fuel pump either.

To compond the issue, when I tried to open the hatch to access the battery, the alarm goes off...Does it with either door open or both closed. Same goes for the hood. Could it be that there is an alarm issue that's disabling the starter?...

Any help/thoughts/suggestions greatly appreciated!
Rafael
Old 03-17-2014, 11:43 PM
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j.kenzie@sbcglobal.net
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Hi Rafael,
What year is your car? You may have to lock and unlock with your key in the different locks to disable the alarm and cancel the engine (fuel pump?) interrupt.
Good luck,
Dave
Old 03-18-2014, 12:05 AM
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jheis
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Hi Rafael;

First of all you need to tell us the year of car you're dealing with.

Assuming it's a pre-S4, the likely suspect is the alarm control unit - which also cuts off the fuel pump.

The simple fix is to disable the alarm system.

Access the central electrical board in the passenger side foot well and pull off "Plug Z" and install a jumper between terminals 1 and 6 on the central electric board connector. This will bypass the alarm control unit.

James
Old 03-18-2014, 12:11 AM
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Alan
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Yes this is highly likely - do you have two different key lengths? - use only the longer one for now. Unlock in the hatch as well to see if that disarms.

For a temporary work around get an ATC inline fuseholder from an automotive store and 2 crimp on 1/4 male blade connectors. Crimp the male terminals to the end of the fuseholder and get an ATC fuse of same value as your fuel pump fuse (~near enough, 15A is probably fine), don't install it yet.

Remove the fuel pump relay and locate the 30 & 87 terminals on the panel (see the relay to match up - it should be labelled) to plug the fused jumper into. These are two of the larger terminals.

Once both are plugged in add the fuse and start as normal - when you are done you must pull the fuse or the pump will continue to operate with the key out. This is a temporary fix only.

Alan
Old 03-18-2014, 12:53 AM
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Mobius Rabbit
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Thanks for the quick feedback guys, was out getting dinner and will now try the workarounds you suggest. Will post back with results as soon as I have them!
Old 03-18-2014, 12:58 AM
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And sorry for the newbie mistake, it's a 1980...
Old 05-11-2014, 04:25 PM
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bdickason
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I have a 928 from the same year (1980) with the factory alarm. We were having similar problems today:

* Opening hatch caused alarm to go off
* Right side lock had trouble engaging (locking) when the door was shut
* Engine would turn over but did not receive any fuel. Pumping the gas pedal would distribute a tiny amount of fuel to the engine.

I was completely puzzled, came up and read a ton of posts, then went down and opened the driver's side door with our larger (black handle) key.

The car started on the first try

Hope this helps anyone who stumbles on this thread as a fix before attempting to install jumpers.

Last edited by bdickason; 05-11-2014 at 05:33 PM.
Old 05-11-2014, 06:45 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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Ok, a couple questions:

Is the alarm going off when you open the doors? If not, do the interior lights work right (come on when door opens)?

Do you have both the long and short keys? Long key will arm/disarm alarm. Short key won't.

Did you lock the door with the long key when you got out to get the garage card? You had to have to arm the alarm. If you didn't, something really odd is going on.

For the early cars, each lock cylinder (both doors and the hatch) have alarm switches in them. You can arm or disarm the alarm from any of them (if they work). Try unlocking both doors and the hatch with the long key. It's entirely possible that one or more of the alarm switches isn't working properly. If a wire is broken in the harness, or contacts are bad, or a few other things, then you may be able to arm the alarm with a particular lock, but not be able to disarm it.
You may have to pull a lock cylinder and jump the switch to disarm the alarm. The hatch one is the easiest to get to. But getting to the door cylinders isn't all that hard. You have to pull the interior panel (the "door card") off.

Hatch Lock thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...larm-lock.html

Door lock thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928/7403...ne-strutt.html



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