Adamant1971

I found a local shop in Oakville that can do exactly that. Now I just need to pull the rad and the lines.

James Bailey

Pay attention to the clocking of the fittings as it can make it very hard to install the rebuilt hose....

GregBBRD

I'm not referring to Parker hose, at all.

Just making the point that neither Aeroquip nor Goodridge hose is rated above the temperatures that 928 engines have commonly, in their oil pans. I have no idea what Parker says in their specification.

And down here, where summer temperatures can reach over 100 degrees, with stop and go traffic, the oil in the pan will frequently be over 275 degrees. (Keep in mind that the very hot oil is pumped from the pan to the cooler....in order to cool that oil down....so at least one of the hoses is exposed to oil that is the same temperatures...or hotter....than that in the pan.)

My statement stands....be careful what you pick out to do a task.

And be realistic in what you are attempting.....one doesn't need to be very smart to figure this stuff out.

If Porsche thought Pushloc hose with hose clamps was adequate for the job....that's what would be on the car....right?

Lizard928

sure that's why the GTS crankcase system is so great right........
By that analogy no one should buy your fuel hoses.

What is acceptable, what is cosmetically pretty, what is the easiest to do for manufacturing, and what will make/save a company the most money are most times never the same thing.
Is a swedge better than a gearclamp, absolutely, no arguing that. It's also substantially faster than tightening a clamp on each and every one. But that doesn't mean that a clamp cannot do the job more than adequately. A dual clamp setup will hold more than acceptably at the pressures we are going to be seeing.

Adamant1971

Success, rad pulled and lines out. A little messy, but now I can do more engine bay cleaning with the rad out.

The metal ends spin freely in the collar and rubber hose, they were leaking pretty good.

Off to the rebuilder tomorrow.

Pulling the rad made it an easy affair.

Adamant1971

I got the lines re-built today by Fluid Line. I just need to clean up the metal fittings before they go back in. $86 to do both lines.

I marked the fittings for proper placement before they re-built them and everything looks good. The old ones were sure loose.

rnixon

I'm glad that it's working out OK. Thank you for documenting it.

Mrmerlin

before you fit the new lines,
add some anti seize to the threads,
and the rear of ball seat flange that the B nut will bear on,
this will prevent the B nut from seizing on the fitting

Snark Shark

Doing this job now myself. How can I counterhold the top fitting on the block? It's blocked by the lower fitting. I can't even get a 27mm crow's foot or channellocks in there. Tried every angle. And there is some kind of hex plug just above the top fitting blocking it from above. Should I remove that? It's some oddball size, like 30mm. Maybe I can find an ultra low-profile crow's foot, but failing that I'm kind of stuck. Is it a terrible idea to jam something in between the upper and lower fitting and just counterhold the lower one?

Mrmerlin

did you remove the alternator and oil filter? Do you have some knipix flat jaw pliers 10 or 12 inch are good for this job

Kevin in Atlanta

Those fittings should have Red Locktite from the factory and should not budge when removing the oil line fittings. At least that's been my experience.

Adamant1971

I use bicycle wrenches, they are nice and thin. But as Stan mentioned you need to get other stuff out of the way.

Snark Shark

OK, I got the hose out. Yeah, the alternator and filter were removed. But I still don't see how anyone does it with the proper tools. Bicycle wrenches are thin, but I needed something with a smaller outside radius. But I found I could get my channellocks open wide just enough to grab both upper and lower fittings together to counterhold the fitting on the block. Maybe my problem was that the upper fitting was clocked so that a point of the hex was pointing directly at the bottom fitting, so I couldn't fit anything in between. I notice the other fittings are clocked so that a flat is facing down, so maybe that's how they're supposed to be from the factory.

The only problem is the fitting did rotate a little. Actually it rotated a little too easily, so I guess the loctite was already broken. Only rotated a few degrees, but it could be a problem. Maybe somebody messed with it before me and gave up when the fitting rotated. I think I'll just put it back together with the rebuilt hose and see if it leaks, since it wasn't too hard to take it apart except for that upper fitting.

Mrmerlin

if the fitting is loose,
now would be the time to remove the fitting and clean the threads and use fresh GREEN loctite to install it.
NOTE heating the fitting first with a small torch will soften the old loctite
250 degrees F is a good number to use.

Snark Shark

OK, I just realized I can easily get a socket on that stupid fitting now that the hose is out. There's several different varieties of the green Loctite now. I'm guessing it's 290 since that specifies it seals threaded parts?

Looks like there's also a crush ring I should replace.