Removing oil cooler lines SOLVED
 

Ok so I have read a bunch of threads on the subject. I have loosened the fitting from the cooler, but the fitting is fused to the hose.

I have tired counter holding the 27 with no joy. PB blaster and some heat and still no joy.

I don't want to use to much heat in that area and I don't want to mess up my rad.

I did find a local shop that will rebuild the lines, or I could buy Greg's lines from Roger.

So what would you do:

A: Keep trying to remove the lines have them rebuilt?

B: Just cut the ****ers, screw them out and buy Greg's lines?

undo the lines from the block, remove the rad hoses, pull radiator out of car with the engine cooler lines attached.
Undo lines outside of car.

No need to take to a shop to have lines rebuilt. Go to Lordco and order Push-Loc hose, rated for 250 PSI, size is 5/8". Cut the crimped sleeves off the hose, pull off old hose, slide on new hose and use two regular gear hose clamps per end.
Then re-install.

Alternatively, if you don't want to remove the rad, you could cut the crimps and replace the line in the car. But I would recommend the earlier method so if you need to undo them later, you can.

I'm not sure if I like the idea of hose clamps on that line. Has anyone else done that? That option did not turn up in any of my searches.

But if it's a proven safe method I may go that route.

Also I have already filled her with coolant and really don't want to drain it again.

I can get loc hose locally at Nappa.

I'm running out of funds in my budget so every saved Pennie counts. :) but not at the expense of a possible failure.

I've done a number of cars that way, never a problem.

How long did u let the penetrating oil sit on the fittings?
I guess the hose clamps should work, I wouldn't like the look.

Soaking since last night, will try again tonight to remove them. I sprayed some more on this morning as well.

Removing the radiator and dealing with the hoses on the bench would be the CHEAPEST method. You only lose $20-$30 for the coolant & distilled water.
Trying to do it in the car, you have the possibility of damaging the radiator and will have to spend $1000 on a new radiator.

Yep, going drain and pull it tonight. If it doesn't easily come off.

FWIW make absolutely sure to counter hold the 27mm fittings that are screwed into the block.

NOTE you will also need to remove the oil filter and the alternator to have maximum room.

If this advice isn't followed its quite possible that you will have the threads chipping out of the girdle holes,
thus requiring a JB weld re fitment of the said fittings..

You will probably have to cut a 27 MM wrench in half so it will have room.

NOTE the fittings are green loctited at the factory and should not be turned

Righty tighty, lefty loosy

:icon107:

I'm with Colin, anything on a 928 you can take out in one piece and do on the bench is likely to come out much better ;-)

Watch the temperature rating of all Pushloc hose. Goodridge hose is rated to 212 degrees. I think Aeroquip pushes this a bit more....to 225 degrees. I've yet to see a Pushloc hose that will handle the oil temps in a 928.

While I wouldn't be afraid to do this if I was broken down in the middle of the desert and needed to get home....I sure would not do this and call it a long term repair.

for those who do POC or PCA track events hose clamps on oil lines will fail the tech inspection if noticed and you get to go home early...too many people have oiled down tracks in the past.

Push-Lok hose (model 801) made by Parker (different models hose available), has a temperature rating from -40F to 257f rating. http://ph.parker.com/us/15551/en/pus...rpose-hose-801

Their 836 hose is rated for temps from -55F to 302F

The rating that you are refering to Greg is their "Maximum Working Temperature Air (F) of 212" on their 836 hose. But they state, "Maximum Working Temperature Oil (F) of 302" for this hose.

So they are both well within useage specs for the 928 engine hoses. If you are seeing even the 257F that the 801 is rated to, you really need to add an additional oil cooler and get those temps down.

Most oils, engine, hydraulic etc. work best between 180-220F above that they start to break down. If you exceed 240F on most oils, they should be replaced before further use according to most manufactures. Though I do not have the evidence/personal experience with oils that have breached 240F to say yay or nay to that.

Take them to Pirtek and have the hose replaced and real collets put on. Like $40.