Hi All!

Just about to pot all back together. New injectors, silicone hoses, hard fuel lines ect...
one question came to my mind:

If all back together, how do i blleed air from the lines, so it wont make an "air lock", to prevent fuel to the the combastion chamber??

Thanks in advance!


Attachment 799794

 

 

 

You just keep cranking it until it starts. It's not an issue.

 

Looks great and yes, you can crank until it runs. Since you are going to have a lot of fuel connections to take care of I'd start with jumping the fuel pump relay first and checking for leaks before going for first start.

 

If you use a switch on the end of some cable you can quickly switch on and off while you're actually looking in the engine bay, or the fuel pump and lines at the back end.

 

Is that speaker wire?

 

Bridge the pump relay with the wire shown above, and leave it run for 10mins while you check for leaks. I did mine this way after a tank out and clean, and new hoses etc. Started first pop afterwards. CIS also.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

 

Yep .. sure is. It has ample cross sectional area to carry more than the rated current without any voltage drop, is multi strand so will retain flexibiity without breaking wires, and the switch is 240V 15A rated, so is way more than necessary. Standard automotive multi-strand isn't available paired like that, and doesn't have the same nice flexible transparent outer. The cable and switch need to be over-rated for the running current of the fuel pump, so that the lengthened jumper doesn't give any voltage drop at all. The switched jumper cable is 3 sq.mm cross sectional area, compared to the main feed to the fuel pump of 2.5 sq.mm.

 

Thanks for the advise!

Have also speeaker cable left, so i will copy the "remote control" wire above!



A

 

Once you have run the pump, the lines from the fuel distributor will be empty, so it will take lots of cranking. The recommended way is to run the fuel pump, then with the air filter removed, push down on the air-flow plate. You will hear a howling noise, which after a couple of seconds will change. Release the air flow plate, refit the air filter, and it should start up as soon as you crank it.
If you hold the air-flow plate down after the tone of the howl changes, you will flood the engine.
Smiffy

 

Yes, but the amperage increases with decreasing voltage. E.G. if you have a 240 V / 15 A rating, the same appliance would draw 30 Amps at 120 Volts and so on.

 

Yes, but only if the wattage of the two things is the same, but made to use different voltages, but that is not relevant to this situation where the current is the only important factor.

 

Thanks, will be carefull not to flood the engine.

A.

 

FWIW, I made the following jumper device using an old relay case to ensure that I couldn't put the terminals in the incorrect connectors. Got the tip here from another RLer.