Got some fog lamp bulbs from Roger, but the outside phillips head bolts are frozen. I've used wd 40 on them but am scared of ripping out the phillips heads. I've banged on the screwdriver with a hammer, wiggled the lamp assembly….nothing. I'm looking for suggestions????!

 

WD40 is a crappy penetrating oil. Try Kroil, or a homebrew 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF. Let it work overnight.

Plenty of threads/discussion in the archives RE: penetrating oil for frozen bolts. But the first, most important suggestion is that if it's still frozen, don't press/pry/turn harder!

 

Try PB BLASTER. WD-40 sucks for breaking corrosion. If you can, get a handheld impact driver, mine has saved my butt more times than I can count. I'm not talking about the battery powered kind, but the kind you hit with a hammer.

 

get a dab of valve grinding compound,
put it into the head of the screw after soaking with PB or Kroil,
remove the screw

If that wont work get a small soldering iron put the tip into the head of the screw for a minute then use the above advice

 

^^ Valve lapping compound: for friction?

I had to drill mine out. The female thread is just a brass insert. Replaced mine with nuts and screws.

 

Acetone will eat the paint and plastic fog-light housing. Kroil would be the better choice.

Yes, the grit helps to lock the bit into the phillips-head screw and prevent it from camming out. also helps with tight hex-socket screws (e.g. 5-speed tranny fill plugs).

Of course your point is good, in this case the brass insert into plastic is likely the weak link!

 

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...-impact-driver

This link is just for a picture of the tool, not a recommendation for the vendor. They're cheap, not that hard to find and a great addition to your toolbox.

 

As several point out, the problem is a cad-plated steel screw threaded into a brass insert that's molded into the plastic outer housing. The lens assembly is o-ringed to the housing, so any penetrant will need to work its way around the heads of the screws and into the threads to work. In the end the torque needed to break the screws loose must be less than that needed to spin the inserts in the plastic housing. Many owners have found that limit, if that's any comfort. Good luck!

 

The inserts do come out, just a cylinder with splines (sort of) to hold it on. Like i said i replaced mine with small M4 bolts and nuts.

 

Don't use a hammer driver on that small bolt.

 

You can use impact drivers with two-pound sledges or tack hammers. Proper force is part of proper use. You can definitely break things with ham-handedness.

 

PB blaster or Thrust (if it is still made by valvoline) are both good. I think they will also degrade plastics if left in contact. A stubborn fastener should be tightened after discovery of a problem. -especially with screw heads. That way you still have a loosening grip available. A direct downward whack with a small hammer on the driver will sometimes shock loose your problem. -not on plastic however.

 

Sometimes I can break those free with a pair of vice grips as a right angle handle clamped extremely tight around the shaft of lomg screwdriver, and putting my weight into keeping the screwdriver engaged in the head. Works on brake rotor screws too (most of the time).


The other tips above might help too.

Wish I had an impact tool like shown.

 

Harbor freight has one.
http://m.harborfreight.com/impact-sc...ase-37530.html

 

I agree on Kroil from Kano labs. Great stuff that really penetrates well beyond where WD40 goes.