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As promised, here's a series of pictures of the new rotors, refreshed calipers, stainless brake lines and spliced sensor cables.

It may have been not such a great idea to splice the cables, Dr. Bob pointed out the '86 and later part has a waterproof connector inside the wheel well that replaces the through the bulkhead wire in the '85. If I hadn't already bought a complete set of '85 replacement cables I think I might have spliced in the new part. Instead I used standard M & F spade connectors with the male side on the bulkhead, female on the sensor. I used three layers of shrink tube to waterproof the connection and applied a silicon grease over the connectors before shrinking the last layer.

hacker-pschorr

Yea, it doesn't matter so why not just do it wrong?

Did you know the direction of the tread on many tires is only for rain? So if you never drive in the wet, you can rotate them in any corner and save money on rubber!!!

/that last part is a joke, please don't do that.

Imo000

Uhmmm K!

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Imo, you have a way with words

dr bob

The rotors themselves will stay clean and pretty a whole lot longer with just a tiny bit more effort now. Your shopping list includes a spray can of instant cold galvanize'. I use CRC brand stuff I can buy at the boat shop. The inside of the hat section and those internal fins get sprayed for rust protection. The rest of the shopping list is a can of Duplicolor 'wheel silver' spray, with a can of their clear coat spray. Use those to do the hats, following the directions on the cans. These steps will make it a breeze to keep those rotors from turning into rusty drums coated with brake dust. Get ritzy and wax the painted surfaces, and they will shed brake dust when you wash the car. Oh yeah.... mask off the friction surfaces before you spray anything.

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Dwayne mentioned he used Turtle Wax on the dust shields but didn't say if it worked. I'll take this as confirmation that it does.

Thanks for the tip!

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While we're at it, what's the consensus on putting a drop or two of high temp red locktite on the caliper guide pins (stainless steel)? Mine had locktite on them when I took them out, but I've read horror stories from people who spun them trying to get them out later. Yea or nae?

Same question about the caliper bracket to steering knuckle bolts. I put anti-seize lube on them and torqued them to spec thinking I had an iron to iron mating in a very hot situation and I didn't want them to rust together. It seemed like locktite would be a bad plan.

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One more note:

In the second picture you see the cable tie that runs through the brake line bracket *above* the brake sensor connection. I later decided this was a bad idea because it allows brake line motion to stress the spade connectors. I relocated this cable tie so it is now under the splice. This immobilizes the splice and should help prevent a failure of the connector.

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Also, the C clip shown is upside down. I later fixed this by re-shaping the curve of the Goodridge clip using a pair of needle nose vice grips to flatten the curve shipped with thier product, which is too steep to use with the welded in bracket. By successive approximation, I shaped the C clip to match the stock clip (which will not accept the Goodridge brake line) until I was able to seat it securely in the bracket.

I can't describe it much better than that. Good Luck