A 86.5 Timing Belt / Water Pump Picture Thread from a first-timer
#196
Burning Brakes
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Well, the 86.5 was dropped off, safely, to its home in California. It will be sitting next to another 928, one that I have not yet met.
The belt tension light illuminated in the Wynn Hotel parking lot. (Since the TB/WP job, I've made a habit of sitting with the car at idle for three minutes before driving to make sure that the light doesn't come on.) I used the 17mm wrench from the car's toolkit to turn the tensioner about 1/4 of a turn (maybe less.) It arrived at its destination without incident. The car will now sit for three weeks before I return to California, and I will have a local shop look at it, so there is a second pair of eyes on it.
Is it possible that my timing belt was not completely tracked, and so when it "straightened out" it lost tension? I used a Gates belt and put about 1500 miles on the car before the light turned on.
The belt tension light illuminated in the Wynn Hotel parking lot. (Since the TB/WP job, I've made a habit of sitting with the car at idle for three minutes before driving to make sure that the light doesn't come on.) I used the 17mm wrench from the car's toolkit to turn the tensioner about 1/4 of a turn (maybe less.) It arrived at its destination without incident. The car will now sit for three weeks before I return to California, and I will have a local shop look at it, so there is a second pair of eyes on it.
Is it possible that my timing belt was not completely tracked, and so when it "straightened out" it lost tension? I used a Gates belt and put about 1500 miles on the car before the light turned on.
Last edited by syoo8; 01-15-2014 at 11:06 PM.
#197
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Well, the 86.5 was dropped off, safely, to its home in California. It will be sitting next to another 928, one that I have not yet met.
The belt tension light illuminated in a parking lot (since the TB/WP job I've been sitting with the car at idle for three minutes before driving to make sure that the light doesn't come on.) I used the 17mm wrench from the car's toolkit to turn the tensioner about 1/4 of a turn (maybe less.) It arrived at its destination without incident. The car will now sit for three weeks before I return to California, and I will have a local shop look at it, so there is a second pair of eyes on it.
Is it possible that my timing belt was not completely tracked, and so when it "straightened out" it lost tension? I used a Gates belt and put about 1500 miles on the car before the light turned on.
The belt tension light illuminated in a parking lot (since the TB/WP job I've been sitting with the car at idle for three minutes before driving to make sure that the light doesn't come on.) I used the 17mm wrench from the car's toolkit to turn the tensioner about 1/4 of a turn (maybe less.) It arrived at its destination without incident. The car will now sit for three weeks before I return to California, and I will have a local shop look at it, so there is a second pair of eyes on it.
Is it possible that my timing belt was not completely tracked, and so when it "straightened out" it lost tension? I used a Gates belt and put about 1500 miles on the car before the light turned on.
#198
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I wont't get to my car before I have a chance to look a the headers. Do you know the approximate M14 bolt length that will work? 8.8 Grade OK? Looks like there is a copper washer / seal in PorKen's photo too.
#199
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FWIW a retension of the new belt is called for after 1000 to 1500 miles
#200
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Others use a large ball bearing to plug it, screwing on the old test port cap over it - but wheel nuts was easier for me than driving to a bearing shop and figuring out the right size bearing.
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Dave - the S4 is different to Porken's picture S4 have an external thread on the manifold threads, so rather than bolt, I use spare/old wheel nuts to cap it.
Others use a large ball bearing to plug it, screwing on the old test port cap over it - but wheel nuts was easier for me than driving to a bearing shop and figuring out the right size bearing.
Others use a large ball bearing to plug it, screwing on the old test port cap over it - but wheel nuts was easier for me than driving to a bearing shop and figuring out the right size bearing.
#202
Burning Brakes
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Question: is it possible to pluck the timing belt without removing the timing belt covers, i.e. through the vent holes?
(If so, that would be fantastic-- I always know where E-natural is, so I wouldn't need the Kempf tool to properly tension the timing belt.)
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Sharkbit - Water Cooled V8's T-belt Notebook for the 928
IDownload Sharkbit, in Adobe PDF (about 1MB- right mouse click and select "Save target as"). After downloading be sure to read the LEGAL and SAFETY NOTICE
The Virtual Timing Belt Gauge
Version 1.0A NOTE : THIS TONE HAS NOW BEEN VERIFIED BY THE PORSCHE GAUGE to be 5.3+/- 0.2 (First try!)
Download the .wav file Right mouse click and select "Save target as")
Background: A belt is just like a guitar string (bass guitar that is) under tension it produces a note. The note is determined by the distance of the two contact points and the tension of the belt. Using sound is an extremely accurate method of measuring tension.
How to Use: Turn engine to TDC with CAM marks aligned. There is a significant drop in tone right after TDC - so be careful!. In a quiet garage, pluck the belt at the measurement point (same as the factory gauge) with a stiff plastic instrument - e.g. a stiff plastic applicator. Compare the note from this wave file to the sound of the belt & adjust accordingly.
The second or lower sounding group of tones on the wave file is approximately where the timing switch makes/breaks contact. The first and last group of tones is 1/2-2/3's turn in on the adjustment bolt.
Note: measured frequency (Audacity) at 82Hz on 10/25/2007 verified 5/23/09
Sharkbit - Water Cooled V8's T-belt Notebook for the 928
IDownload Sharkbit, in Adobe PDF (about 1MB- right mouse click and select "Save target as"). After downloading be sure to read the LEGAL and SAFETY NOTICE
The Virtual Timing Belt Gauge
Version 1.0A NOTE : THIS TONE HAS NOW BEEN VERIFIED BY THE PORSCHE GAUGE to be 5.3+/- 0.2 (First try!)
Download the .wav file Right mouse click and select "Save target as")
Background: A belt is just like a guitar string (bass guitar that is) under tension it produces a note. The note is determined by the distance of the two contact points and the tension of the belt. Using sound is an extremely accurate method of measuring tension.
How to Use: Turn engine to TDC with CAM marks aligned. There is a significant drop in tone right after TDC - so be careful!. In a quiet garage, pluck the belt at the measurement point (same as the factory gauge) with a stiff plastic instrument - e.g. a stiff plastic applicator. Compare the note from this wave file to the sound of the belt & adjust accordingly.
The second or lower sounding group of tones on the wave file is approximately where the timing switch makes/breaks contact. The first and last group of tones is 1/2-2/3's turn in on the adjustment bolt.
Note: measured frequency (Audacity) at 82Hz on 10/25/2007 verified 5/23/09
#203
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I used a Kempf tool, which read 4/5ths of the way "tight" in the window. I corroborated the measurements by plucking the timing belt itself. I got a nice "slightly sharp" E-natural, which corresponds to the text on the Jager Engineering site below.
Question: is it possible to pluck the timing belt without removing the timing belt covers, i.e. through the vent holes?
(If so, that would be fantastic-- I always know where E-natural is, so I wouldn't need the Kempf tool to properly tension the timing belt.)
Question: is it possible to pluck the timing belt without removing the timing belt covers, i.e. through the vent holes?
(If so, that would be fantastic-- I always know where E-natural is, so I wouldn't need the Kempf tool to properly tension the timing belt.)
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No way to pluck without removing a cover.
It's not too uncommon to get a warning after the job. It's a good idea to have a close look at the belt location in the holes of the top timing covers with a flashlight. If it's tracking well, may just need a slight tight on the adjuster. Also look down near the tensioner and see if it's drooling.
#204
Burning Brakes
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Doc, thanks for all of your help on this job... you were such a great help. (You can ask your son to measure the belt tension with his ears as well!)
I will check the tensioner for weeping oil. I hope not to see any... that was a pain to clean and refurbish.
#206
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Congratulations! You have a very beautiful wife!
She's a new bride, so make sure to give her more attention than the car (for now at least). Or you could kill two birds with one stone and make it a honey moon project.
She's a new bride, so make sure to give her more attention than the car (for now at least). Or you could kill two birds with one stone and make it a honey moon project.
#207
Burning Brakes
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Thank you, Avar-- I feel very lucky!
Her 'present' is that we can get the 996 back- her car. The 996 was living with one of her co-workers since August, and she misses it. When there isn't loads of snow (and salt) on the ground, the 996 will come home.
Her 'present' is that we can get the 996 back- her car. The 996 was living with one of her co-workers since August, and she misses it. When there isn't loads of snow (and salt) on the ground, the 996 will come home.
#208
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Fantastic write up! Thank You So Much for all of your efforts to share this with the 928 community, very impressive! Especially for the detailed pictures. Those are priceless in helping paint the picture of the work being done. I would say that You and Alice, and Your 928, all make a great family indeed. Congrats on your marriage & your successful 928 restoration work!
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#209
Burning Brakes
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Quick update January 27 2014
I write this as a reference to others who wish to remove the remnants of their carbon monoxide (CO) test port tubes from their exhaust manifolds and plug them with a bolt. This is for 85-86 cars.
I went to the hardware store today, and found out that we are looking for an M14 bolt with 1.5 thread pitch. I tested both the M14 bolt and the old CO tube by threading each into an M14 nut.
The old carcass of the CO tube, with the new bolt, is pictured below.
The new bolt is, as you can see, too long. I will be cutting them both down to size.
I write this as a reference to others who wish to remove the remnants of their carbon monoxide (CO) test port tubes from their exhaust manifolds and plug them with a bolt. This is for 85-86 cars.
I went to the hardware store today, and found out that we are looking for an M14 bolt with 1.5 thread pitch. I tested both the M14 bolt and the old CO tube by threading each into an M14 nut.
The old carcass of the CO tube, with the new bolt, is pictured below.
The new bolt is, as you can see, too long. I will be cutting them both down to size.
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#210
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hello, the timing belt and v-belts, basically all the belts along with water pump was changed in 2007 in california which i have the receipt, with 33,000 miles on it, so its been 6 years since and i only put 3,000 miles on car, so even though years have passed i believe all the belts should be in good shape and don't just break because its been 6 years - is this correct? i have read that some 928 owners have not changed the timing belt until 60k miles, even over 70k miles and someone still had original timing belt with 100k miles, just wondering on your opinion all, thanks, because of course mechanics will say to change because its money in their pockets but how many years and miles does timing belt last?