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New Product: 928 clutch short shafts

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Old 12-11-2013, 09:21 PM
  #76  
BC
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300M is harder rockwell, right? So it will not be grooved in the wear areas as easily?
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:13 PM
  #77  
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Originally Posted by mark kibort
No, if you truely understand the forces, this is NOT true at all. Ill give you a hint. can you break the tires free by dumping the clutch shifting into 3rd on race rubber in a car with 300-400rwhp?? another hint: no you cant.
other much greater forces are at work here. thats my point about the short shaft and driveline forces . Very relevant to the discussion here on this part.
Well, are you talking up shift or down shift? It makes a difference. You say the fact remains that the forces of a downshift (wear on the opposite sides of the spline) are greater than the drive side. You must into the Pabst pretty heavily if you think the forces of downshifting into 4th are greater that dumping the clutch taking off in first. To that you would be incredibly wrong. the forces are VERY similar. It is simple math with determining the torque on the shaft. During acceleration it is the max torque that the engine can produce. There is a small additional amount of torque based on the inertia effect but it works in both directions. The deceleration forces are a factor of the traction the wheels have multiplied by the inverse of the gear ratio. Once the tires lose traction then you can not have any more toque.

Originally Posted by mark kibort
It depends on the time you need to do this.



I think you might know this, but at the higher gears, the reverse forces are even greater than if you are in first. (it works opposite to what you Plus we are talking about instantaneous forces, which can be tremendous. (with out getting the crayons out)
Stop eating the crayons. I need to write **** down. The forces can be calculated.

Originally Posted by BC
300M is harder rockwell, right? So it will not be grooved in the wear areas as easily?
No if we are to believe the factory short shaft is 4130, then 300M cannot be heat treated harder. It does have more chromium and molybdenum which increases toughness, which would allow for better wear. How much? Your guess is as good as mine. If it is a steel such as 1018 and is case hardened, it would be stronger but wear faster. There are literally thousands of combinations to play with to change the part.

If the factory part is 4130 then all of the factors are included which are hardness, toughness, lubrication and surface finish factor in.I can tell you that the surface finish on those cut splines are not very good. If they are indeed heat treated harder than the factory, then your clutch splines will wear out faster.
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Old 12-11-2013, 11:58 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
If it makes a difference, I'm actually "cool" (unlike CSC) with people getting off on tangents and talking about other topics, on my threads. I think that Rennlist should be an open Forum where people can exchange ideas, with each other. And, realistically, after about the first page, the product introduction stuff (if the product is worth a crap) should be all over....
I know, and I appreciate the openness.
However, nobody is stopping any conversations here. Just a suggestion to start new threads for side subjects so the original goal of this (or any other) thread isn't lost.

I've seen way too many excellent threads nose dive into oblivion thanks to a few people who have to be king dig-a-ling every time they start posting.

Originally Posted by GregBBRD
I want my cars and my customers to be able to take their cars to Porsche Club events, if they choose....not be told they can't run, because they have a Chevy transmission or a Chevy engine.
Very good point.
I cannot attend the two excellent Chicago Region PCA DE events at Road America with a Chevy motor in m 79.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:29 AM
  #79  
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30 or 45 degree involute?
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:04 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by OBehave
I think the biggest point of this story,is that Greg has produced a replacement part that if it is still available from Porsche it is unrealistically expensive, will eventually be NLA in the future and reasonably priced in comparison to a good used one if you can find it. Seems like a huge win with a side benefit of handling large amounts of power if you so decide to need it. Thanks Greg!
Hear hear.
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Old 12-12-2013, 06:18 AM
  #81  
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Having been down this road myself I will offer the following.

Parts for the 928 are simply going away and those that Porsche will make in the future will come with a Porsche price tag. They also have a two (2) year warranty in most cases and that's it.

So all this talk about how long these new shafts will last doesn't really matter. I'm sure Greg will provide a certain warranty with them and it will then be up to the buyer on what they want to buy.

If you think you can do better, then put your money, and time, where your mouth is and do it.

And I do wish we could keep on point in these threads.
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Old 12-12-2013, 08:01 AM
  #82  
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Originally Posted by GregBBRD
Why the big hard on for this shaft? You've been drop kicking it, since your very first post.

It's made out of a better material, machined to very close tolerances, heat treated to the proper requirements

And exactly where did I say that it was harder than the factory shaft?

Actually, the factory shaft is 46.5C to 48C, depending on where you measure it and what shaft you measure. This shaft is slightly less that that. I have my own Rockwell tester, right in my own shop!

It's a very nice fricking part....very well researched, very well thought out.....like everything I make.

What the hell do you want me to do?

Build 20 shafts with rolled splines for $2,000 each?

Yeah, those are going sell to the 928 crowd....they are lining up outside my door, right now!


If you think that people would do better to pay almost 2X as much, for a factory part....just say so....everyone is entitled to an opinion. If you think people would be better off just using a shaft like one of those I pictured....just say so.....I've got a whole box of those worn out shafts.
No hard on for this shaft. Any one who claims that it is better than thefactory shaft had better have proof or sound engineering data to back it up. I have a great deal of respect for you Greg, don't get me wrong. But if there is something that is claimed to be better and there is no proof that it is, I will call you out on it. Call it what it is. A cheaper version of the factory shaft, with inferior manufacturing processes and maybe better material that is softer. Your work speakes for you. You claim that you have more work than you can handle.. you are starting to sound like Carl and Jake Ruby. Once you cannot defend you attack personally. Please don't turn into that person.
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Old 12-12-2013, 10:30 AM
  #83  
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Originally Posted by 69gaugeman
No hard on for this shaft. Any one who claims that it is better than thefactory shaft had better have proof or sound engineering data to back it up. I have a great deal of respect for you Greg, don't get me wrong. But if there is something that is claimed to be better and there is no proof that it is, I will call you out on it. Call it what it is. A cheaper version of the factory shaft, with inferior manufacturing processes and maybe better material that is softer. Your work speakes for you. You claim that you have more work than you can handle.. you are starting to sound like Carl and Jake Ruby. Once you cannot defend you attack personally. Please don't turn into that person.
Now you and Imre need to keep this in mind when you give out ****ty advice and I call you out on it

Greg, keep up the good work buddy, most of us know where you are coming from on this project and appreciate the time you've put in to it.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:19 PM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Now you and Imre need to keep this in mind when you give out ****ty advice and I call you out on it

Greg, keep up the good work buddy, most of us know where you are coming from on this project and appreciate the time you've put in to it.
Why the Fuuck did you pull me into this? Go back circlejerking the Moderator in OP.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:21 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Why the Fuuck did you pull me into this? Go back circlejerking the Moderator in OP.
Ok cupcake.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:30 PM
  #86  
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Now you and Imre need to keep this in mind when you give out ****ty advice and I call you out on it

Greg, keep up the good work buddy, most of us know where you are coming from on this project and appreciate the time you've put in to it.
No problem Sean. If I give bad advice, I would hope people would be all over me about it. I will certainly listen if there is logical reason and/or proof. But 'Do it because I say so' NEVER flew with me. Here or anywhere in my life.
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:32 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by Imo000
Why the Fuuck did you pull me into this? Go back circlejerking the Moderator in OP.
Because you are responsible for just about all the **** here. And global warming too!
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Old 12-12-2013, 12:34 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by 69gaugeman
No problem Sean. If I give bad advice, I would hope people would be all over me about it. I will certainly listen if there is logical reason and/or proof. But 'Do it because I say so' NEVER flew with me. Here or anywhere in my life.
Ditto for me, when I give bad advice I expect to be corrected so bad advice is not followed.
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Old 12-12-2013, 01:57 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by SeanR
Ditto for me, when I give bad advice I expect to be corrected so bad advice is not followed.
That's bad advice, right there...
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Old 12-12-2013, 03:08 PM
  #90  
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Put another couple hundred miles on the old very brown 1980, son in law Jeff Allen and Meggan of The car Chasers TV show used it to get into the Pomona swap meet early to scope it out before the 5 am opening. And if you watch the show you know how he drives

So the testing continues !! Geez I forget to tell him to RPM match on downshifts and he LOVES rowing the gears up to a stoplight ! Me I just use the brakes.
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