dr bob

Hub, upright, stub axle, CV-joint, half-shaft, drive hub on the side of the gearbox. Pretty standard terminology. I probably misused the term "spindle nut", as that applies to the front more than the rear where there is really no spindle.

Three thoughts in no particular order:

If you can get a little creative with the cutoff wheel, make a series of radial relief cuts around the race. You'll have to split the ring with a chisel to get it off though.

Before you do any major relieving, it looks like there's room for a bearing splitter to get under the back of the race. The way you have the ears added to the race, pulling on it with your puller is likely squeezing the small end of the race closed on the hub surface. Press will be better I think.

Adding heat with the welder is quick and easy, but in my limited experience you've got to be quick to pop the race off while the ring is hotter than the hub. With races stuck inside something, heating with a weld bead works because the weld shrinks as it cools. It does the same thing on the outside, and may actually draw the ring tighter by the time it's cold.

Mike Simard

Yes, if I'd known how much trouble this was going to be I'd have done that. It would have been pretty simple.

Lizard928

It's not too late!

Mrmerlin

Based on the picture you may have spread the hub collar since your not pushing on the end of the hub but rather from the inner area of the bore, and adding heat will have softened the hub collar

Tony

Call Mark and have a used hub shipped out. The wheels studs look like they have seen better days?Convenience has a price....although i hate to be beaten by mechanical "road blocks" like this.

I just hope i can get mine off tonight.

Mike Simard

I'm already machining the new ones which is what I wanted to do anyway and had material earmarked for. This is a special project and I'm re-making rear uprights so this is no problem.

Tony, good luck, do you have a plan? Report back!

James Bailey

You had the chunk of steel and just knew that the new hub was in there somewhere...is there nothing that you can not make ??

dr bob

The one I'd really like to see is the front one, with ~~15mm of backspacing added. Would be cool if it would fit a larger Porsche rotor (pana or pepper) that has a similarly shorter hat, so you'd get a lower-cost big brake rotor option, and the ability to use a ~50mm offset front wheel and get the same net steering geometry.

Then I'd just need a set of those special offset caliper bolts I guess. ;(

Vilhuer

Do you use just puller thread to create pressure to move it? If yes you really need to get small hydraulic press to put it between puller and hub. 5 to 10 tonne $200 tool is great and will give much improved power for the job. I wouldn't even try without one.



Once race has moved little more this put under it and large shop press will be even better.

BC

Oh, pics please.

Bill Ball

Yes, that's what I've always called the hub, and the "upright" I usually call the hub carrier.

Wow, that is stuck! I would have expected the heat of welding alone to loosen the race. I've used a bearing splitter successfully, but not on one this stuck. And you tried cutting partially and chiseling with no luck. More cutting!

IcemanG17

When I had the rear wheel bearings changed on the Estate, they were also stuck....140K miles when odo broke plus over 100hours on track (some with slicks) is hard on bearings.... The shop did the Bill Ball style fix of cutting the old bearing...... New bearings in & she still is running strong!!!!

jon928se

I would also but now that the weld has cooled it will be even more stuck than it was before.

I would persevere with the dremel. Safety specs and decent whack with a cold chisel into the dremel cut will normally shatter the race, but the heat from welding may have made it more ductile.

Tony

Im not sure how stuck mine were but the bearing splitter and a press wasn't going to do it. I didnt want to risk breaking the splitter tool im borrowing.

I put the hub in a vice and got my HF 4 1/2 " angle grinder and a metal cut off wheel and cut a 45' slot across the race. The wheel made short work of the cut. Once deep enough I went at it again with a dremel and a cut off wheel (easier and more accurate to handle)..I stopped periodically to check the progress with a magnifying glass. Once I thought it was deep enough I stuck a screw driver in and gave it a whack and a twist. it broke free and spun on the hub and I pulled it off by hand!
I had them both off in under 15 minutes. I left a small dremel scar in each hub, but shouldn't be an issue at all installing the bearing over it.

happy dance!

now to install them (with the backing plate)

video to come.

Mike Simard

Some celebratory cartwheels are in order!