StratfordShark

I'm planning motor mount install as next project, and thinking about supporting the engine when crossmember is off.

Could use a jack/wood block under the sump, but that makes changing sump gasket tricky if I decide to do that as WYAIT.

If I use an engine support beam instead there are versions with double and single hooks. Single hook ones rated for 300kg. Is that enough for our engines? If they are would chain attach on the shackle where the ignition leads cross over on an S4?

If I got hold of a double hook beam then I can attach to engine lifting eyes on each side, just as Dwayne did in his guide making a DIY support with timber. Using a beam like the one pictured is it possible to lift the engine slightly by hand by tightening down the support hooks, or would weight of engine make this impossible? I know engine has to be raised slightly at some point so if I can't do it with support beam, then I may as well just use jack (probably 2 bottle jacks for safety) underneath for whole job.

Rob Edwards

Single hook is fine, off the ignition bracket (make sure its mounting SHCS are snug...) The whole engine is ~530 lbs and will still be supported in part by the bellhousing/TT.

Bill Ball

Yes, the one pictured will do the job with a single lift point as Rob shows. I bought one of these off eBay 7 or 8 years ago for about $50 IIRC. The picture was identical to one you posted. The chains look a bit flimsy in your picture just like mine did. But what arrived was the biggest hunk of metal I ever bought for $50 with very sturdy chains and way overbuilt to lift the motor, exactly as Rob's real life photo shows. It must weight 75 lbs and I think it was rated to lift 1000 lbs. It works just fine forgiving that it is a bit of a chore for a little guy like me to lift it into position.

StratfordShark

Excellent news thanks guys - there are a couple near me on ebay at the moment, so may snag a bargain

AO

For about $30 at Home Depot or Lowes you can do this...

https://rennlist.com/forums/7462513-post14.html

depami

This worked for me. Didn't need to buy anything. Already had everything.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ct-w-pics.html

Avar928

I met with Kevin at the recent local meetup and he said that there are two points under the car that you can use bottle jacks on to lift the whole engine up. When I do my mounts early next year, I plan on going that route. I honestly don't like suspending something so heavy in the air while I try to squeeze myself underneath it to work.

worf928

As others have said the engine support(s) pictured will work.

Make sure to keep the 'hook' from rotating and twisting the chain while you turn the handle or you will deform the front lift loop.

Remove the air box so that you don't crush it against the firewall.

I remove the left-side fuel rail cover to keep the cover bolt from hitting the engine bay cross-brace.

Replace the two flexible fuel lines (supply and return) when you do the mounts if they have not already been replaced. When you are done the motor will rock nicely on your new mounts. The two flexible fuel lines will then flex for the first time in many years. If they are not flexible they will crack and starting leaking fuel. That's bad.

StratfordShark

Thanks for great tips Dave. Noted

StratfordShark

That sounds important but also I don't see how the chain won't twist if wrapped round hook. Please can you elaborate?

alabbasi

That looks like the one they sell at HarborFreight. If so, I have a 20% coupon knocking around if you need it.

Leon Speed

I used the same beam with two hooks, diagonally across the engine, using both engine lift eyes. Worked fine on the front lift eye, but much harder on the rear lift eye.

Imo000

You only really need half of that, the front half.

worf928

The handle is what needs to twist. So, you get a cheater bar on one of the hooks and hold it still while you twist the handle. Works great with two folks. It's a good arm workout with no helper.

dr bob

Spend a minute driving a few wedges between the gearbox and the rear crossmember. Lifting by that front bracket alone shifts a lot of engine weight back. Maybe not "a lot" in the giant picture of things, but enough to smush tired trans mounts. Leave the support in there until the engine is back on the new mounts.