Blower motor
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Just getting back to life after having a hip replacement - I wont elaborate; it's a procedure not worthy of much discussion.
My '87 S4 has a noisy but functioning blower motor. It's likely that the motor bushings are worn but somewhat serviceable. The noise appears to be the blower periodically scraping the housing. Anybody out there that has come up with a fix other than spending crazy money for a new unit?
My '87 S4 has a noisy but functioning blower motor. It's likely that the motor bushings are worn but somewhat serviceable. The noise appears to be the blower periodically scraping the housing. Anybody out there that has come up with a fix other than spending crazy money for a new unit?
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I have a higher amp motor (more blow) which is plug and play on the later blower motors like yours. Comes complete with extra wiring (made by Greg Brown) to handle the higher load = $225.
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
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928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
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Just getting back to life after having a hip replacement - I wont elaborate; it's a procedure not worthy of much discussion.
My '87 S4 has a noisy but functioning blower motor. It's likely that the motor bushings are worn but somewhat serviceable. The noise appears to be the blower periodically scraping the housing. Anybody out there that has come up with a fix other than spending crazy money for a new unit?
My '87 S4 has a noisy but functioning blower motor. It's likely that the motor bushings are worn but somewhat serviceable. The noise appears to be the blower periodically scraping the housing. Anybody out there that has come up with a fix other than spending crazy money for a new unit?
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I found references in other threads to removing it and oiling the bearings. That's going to be my first plan of attack.
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Thanks to "Depami" to turn up the radio but I already do that. At 78 years of age my hearing isn't great and the blower overcomes the radio. To Roger, once I get through the Christmas presents, yours sounds like a pretty good deal. I'll be back after Christmas.
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I'm so glad to know that life isn't over at 71, next month! My hearing sucks, so I just take out my hearing aids, when sounds bug me ( the ole lady bitching.) Every thing else is tolerable.
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Although it is not the only failure mode, if you take the motor apart you will likely find that the squirrel cage has moved down on the shaft, so that it hits the housing at times. Moving it back up will give you a few more peaceful months, unless you live on a gravel road. I've BTDT, and am getting ready to do it again, and figure out some way to fix it on the shaft this time around. (And polecat, 71 ain't so bad!)
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Just a note to "Polecat". The seventies are supposed to be the period in one's life when everything starts to turn to s**t. Closing in on 80 I have to admit that there is some truth to that. However, although I quit ice hockey a couple of years ago, my wife and I still ski (once I get this #$%^ piece of titanium settled in my ****. The moral is to keep doing whatever you are doing as long as you can do it.
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Dave,
The motor is a drop in replacement for the later blowers - those with two square ears on the top of the motor housing. These ears accommodate the larger brush enclosures on the motor. Cars from 86 upwards have the square ears. Earlier cars need some additional Dremel surgery to make the new motor fit.
Added "puff" came with higher amps so thanks to Jim Corenman and Greg Brown additional wiring was produced to ensure utmost safety.
Roger
The motor is a drop in replacement for the later blowers - those with two square ears on the top of the motor housing. These ears accommodate the larger brush enclosures on the motor. Cars from 86 upwards have the square ears. Earlier cars need some additional Dremel surgery to make the new motor fit.
Added "puff" came with higher amps so thanks to Jim Corenman and Greg Brown additional wiring was produced to ensure utmost safety.
Roger
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To Roger:
I was looking over the situation last night. How tough is it to get the motor out? Do you have to remove the hood? I've heard that, once removed, it is difficult to realign the hood when putting it back in place.
Thanks.
I was looking over the situation last night. How tough is it to get the motor out? Do you have to remove the hood? I've heard that, once removed, it is difficult to realign the hood when putting it back in place.
Thanks.
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I wrote up a blurb on it back in 06 or 07-ish. Do a search with my name and "blower motor" and you can find it. Yes, you have to remove the hood. Some take it off from the hinge at the bottom so that re-alignment is easier. I just mark the hood with a ball point around the hinge plate and put it back in the same location. Also have to remove the trim strip just aft of the hood. Not too bad a job, but work slowly.
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After disconnecting the washer hose and heater wiring.
Hood off at the bottom of the hinges means no need to align it later. Two man operation
A single long screw in the cabin in front of the recirc vent and two screws up top.
Motor comes right out.