yardpro

personally i would not buy a rebuilt h20 pump...

on a car that has an h20 pump that is easy to get to and will not wipe out the motor if it fails (timing issue).. sure... but NOT the 928.

ranste

guess I'll redo the thermostat and see if that will do it. Yes I have heard of the nightmares of rebuilt water pumps-after the timing belt re-do. Too bad I didn't do the research first. Hope and pray it's the thermostat or something other than an impeller dragging-nightmare scenario there.

ranste

Hmmmm, work invoice shows pump gasket # 92810613405. Different than a '91?

Bilal928S4

It's easier to "just" change the water pump as you can get away without undoing everything to get the timing belt removed.

AO

Different. THat number is for the gasket between the water pump and the block.

ranste

Thanks Greg, that might be part of the problem.

danglerb

When I read "rebuilt pump", first thing I did was to check to see if this hopefully was a bumped very old thread. Same question previously asked, who did the pump rebuild?

Isn't there some issue with places that don't know the 928 well selling a MB version of the thermostat that has some sort of fit issue, wrong seal or something?

Not the news you want to hear, but a shop using a rebuilt water pump would make me question all of the work they did. They could have used a Conti timing belt or some other wacky thing.

ranste

My mechanic has worked on this car since 1995 when I first purchased it. I had him install the belts and a water pump at that time and twice after that not counting this one. I don't ask him who rebuilt the pump because I trust him. I am assuming a rebuilt pump based on the invoice-$175.00C ar has run great since I purchased it!

ranste

Until this overheat issue....................

Avar928

That rear seal behind the thermostat is known to just corrode away into nothing. You may have to pick and feel around to see if it's still there. Mine disintegrated partially but the metal was there. I broke it away and only managed to get a little over half of it out. The rest sank down the bridge which I believe just ended up getting chewed up by the water pump.

New one fits perfect.

Not all rebuilt ones are bad. My car may be an exception but when I changed my water pump last month, I checked the old one and saw a "rebuilt" sticker on it. My dad said it was probably a 928 International rebuild back when they sold them. Lasted over 15 years and 59k miles with no problems.

However, I did replace it with a new Laso one. Luckily I managed to get one before the price hike. Saved a ton.

Bill Ball

The temp you report is not in the "overheating" range. It's quite normal. The stock thermostat is 95C. The only thing I don't like is the small drop across the radiator (7C) and the fact that the flaps do not open beyond 30% as you say. You can pull the fuse for the flaps and manually open them all the way (**** is under the rubber boot on the flap motor - note they don't open fully horizontal). See what that does for the coolant temp behavior. Although there have been problems with rebuilt water pumps, I would not get real excited. I've had nothing but rebuilts in mine for the last 200K miles as until recently there was no better alternative. The new Lasso pump is an improvement and I'll probably go that way next time I change the pump.

ranste

Thanks Bill and Avar. Perhaps I have been lucky for 18 years with the car but why push my luck if so, I will insist on the Lasso next time. This forum is a valuable wealth of knowledge. I am concerned as the shop I have been taking the car to is showing signs of change of ownership... on-line research still has my mechanic as the owner but every time I ask for him when I go in or call, the "new guy" is there. After the last T-belt re-do I checked under the hood afterword as I always do and found the strut brace wiggly loose. I called the shop and told the "new guy" that I was upset about the oversight and he said he would reprimand the mechanic. But now I am getting a little worried. The work invoice shows only one water pump gasket ( the inner one) so I will order the outer one, pull the thermostat and check the work done. What other things are "wiggly loose", sloppy workmanship during the T-belt change? Kind of scary as all previous work was perfect. Shop has a 2 year warranty on parts and labor but that could make for an interesting court case as I see it and probably not worth the money. I have some basic wrench turning skills but compared to a lot of you guys I know just enough to be dangerous with major jobs such as new T-belt install, pulling cam covers or intake. Hopefully with time and learning, purchasing some new tools and equipment I will become "less dangerous" I plan on pulling the fuse for the flaps and tying them open, pulling and cleaning the temp gauge sender contacts and taking another test drive after checking the T-stat for proper installation. I'll keep you all posted. Any other helpful suggestions are gladly welcomed!

'87 S4, Diamantblau, automatic, 96K

ranste

Thanks Bill and Avar. Perhaps I have been lucky for 18 years with the car but why push my luck if so, I will insist on the Lasso next time. This forum is a valuable wealth of knowledge. I am concerned as the shop I have been taking the car to is showing signs of change of ownership... on-line research still has my mechanic as the owner but every time I ask for him when I go in or call, the "new guy" is there. After the last T-belt re-do I checked under the hood afterword as I always do and found the strut brace wiggly loose. I called the shop and told the "new guy" that I was upset about the oversight and he said he would reprimand the mechanic. But now I am getting a little worried. The work invoice shows only one water pump gasket ( the inner one) so I will order the outer one, pull the thermostat and check the work done. What other things are "wiggly loose", sloppy workmanship during the T-belt change? Kind of scary as all previous work was perfect. Shop has a 2 year warranty on parts and labor but that could make for an interesting court case as I see it and probably not worth the money. I have some basic wrench turning skills but compared to a lot of you guys I know just enough to be dangerous with major jobs such as new T-belt install, pulling cam covers or intake. Hopefully with time and learning, purchasing some new tools and equipment I will become "less dangerous" I plan on pulling the fuse for the flaps and tying them open, pulling and cleaning the temp gauge sender contacts and taking another test drive after checking the T-stat for proper installation. I'll keep you all posted. Any other helpful suggestions are gladly welcomed!

'87 S4, Diamantblau, automatic, 96K


PS After 15 minutes of continuous idle measured 84 C and gauge temp sender, 67 F at lower hose and 76 F at upper hose. (Flaps did not open) after cleaning temp sender

ranste

That's centigrade in the last two......................................force of habit!