Originally Posted by Glen McCartney

I didn't remove the TT when I pulled my trans. I removed the air cleaner to allow engine to rotate down in back, lowered the trans enough to remove the upper TT to trans bolts, then pulled the trans back and out. More than one way to skin a cat.

Originally Posted by Glen McCartney

Agreed if I had the twin screw installed I would do it that way too. Too much work to remove the twin screw, much easier to pull the whole shebang. Have you swapped in your spare trans or is the old one still functional after you cleaned the valve body?

Originally Posted by Tony

yup..

... about 5yrs ago or so when I pulled the torque tube and the engine etc etc for a different thing, I cut a section out of the lower bell housing.
Now to drop the transmission I don't have to deal with the upper bell housing bolts on the engine. On my car they are impossible to get at unless I remove my supercharger intake...which requires, the supercharger to come out...it would be like pulling a thread on a sweater if you get the idea. I didn't want to deal with it.

the cut on the bell housing allowed me to drop the shaft of the TT and the entire assembly straight down. I loosened the fwd pinch bolt....removed the 6 flex plate bolts..slid the collar and flexplate back on the shaft ..removed the easily accessible TT to bell housing bolts..and lowered it through the gap I made with the cut.
The transmission was supported with a jack as was the front of the TT...just took my time and lowered it all as a single unit (the crossmember/suspension was already out)

Sticky wicket in it all is the mounting bolt for the Bowden cable on the torque converter cover. I used a 10mm socket on a 1/4 drive, a few extensions and a universal joint at the front.

video is worth more than a 1000 words.

Originally Posted by ammonman

Leave 'em in there. I had to do my TT due to a failed vibration damper but the bearings I pulled out were fine after 190,000 miles. You have a lot of miles left on that tube.

Mike