Jetdriver69

Is it imperative to spread the girdle sealant with a small roller or can you just run a bead? Thanks

Mrmerlin

one surface should be coated evenly,
a roller works well this sealant Loctite 574 sets up in the absence of air

Jetdriver69

Thanks, we found a small roller at NAPA.

69gaugeman

Did the last one without a roller and used locktite 518. no leaks after 7000km.

Cheburator

it is not about leaks, it is about making sure the oilways are not clogged up with sealant...

Rob Edwards

The layer of 574 ends up being quite thin, certainly translucent and only the slightest bit orange in color.

If you're doing it wrong it looks like this:



Degreased:

jeff spahn

Rob's photography skills and proliferation make me feel inadequate.

Mrmerlin

to clean that surface hold a razor blade perpendicular to the surface back and forth then wipe down with acetone

Rob Edwards

This. Which I did, for hours and hours. Then got to do it again after the block came back from Nikasiling to remove all the protective goop from the machined surfaces. I have more intimate knowledge of that block that I would ever have thought possible.

FBIII

Wow, first time I have seen a razor used for removing ear wax.

atb

I had read in some Porsche Magazine that it was critical to use the proper roller to apply the loctite, as the depth of the application would have a direct affect on the bearing clearance (liquids don't compress).

Although I suppose this is true at some molecular level, I went ahead and torqued the cradle with no loctite and took a dial bore gauge to the center mains, and then disassembled, used roller to apply the loctite, torqued the cradle, and remeasured, then disassembled, used my finger to spread the loctite and reassembled, and re-measured. No discernable difference in the bore spec in any of the three assemblies.

And yes there was a period in my life where I had more time than brains.

Rob Edwards

I have a mental image of how much 574 is 'correct' but during that particular 20 minutes in time no one is just sitting there with a camera to document it .

Here's a shot of Dennis Kao's engine showing the 'bead' of loctite after girdle assembly. They used 573 instead of 574, hence the green.

https://rennlist.com/forums/6229452-post27.html

Tony

http://wavcentral.com/sounds/movies/airplane/finger.mp3

69gaugeman

Never going to happen. The sealant doesn't harden except in the absence of oxygen and the presence of metallic ions. Will wash out and get caught in the filter.

Don't waste your time. The new sealant dissolves the old and you get the same sealing quality.

Again, cleaning is NOT necessary and is a waste of time. But if you have time, have at it.

You need a sealed vessel to apply the compressibility of a fluid. It squeezes out. It will not hold the girdle away from the block, changing the clearance. Unnecessary worry.

FBIII

[QUOTE=69gaugeman;10835688]Never going to happen. The sealant doesn't harden except in the absence of oxygen and the presence of metallic ions. Will wash out and get caught in the filter.

If you look at the pictures provided this hasn't happened and is part of the concern. As far as not cleaning the mating surfaces and just reapplying the sealant I would be hugely concerned about contaminents sticking to the existing sealant causing a less than perfect seal. I can't imagine and wouldn't takie an engine this far apart and not have every mating and sealing surface spotless.