Eric G

I just finished using the Power Bleeder to bleed my brakes. Unfortunately, now I have to mash on the brakes for them to work and there is some sort of vibration in the pedal when I press hard. (I'm testing the brakes with the car still up on jackstands - that shouldn't contribute to the problem?).

However, I think I may have introduced some air into the system. When I opened one of the bleeder valves, it drained some, and then stopped. So I pressed on the brake, and it started draining again. I never saw any air bubbles, and the remainder of the bleeding went uneventfully.

When I released the pressure on the reservoir cap, the fluid level went up. I'm assuming that releasing the pressure allowed condensed air to expand, thus raising the reservoir level?

Am I on the right track? What do I do now?

Lagavulin

Did you bleed both the front and back nipples per caliper?

Oscar R

I bleed my brakes a little differently. I use a wet/dry vac and a mason jar. The hose from the vacuum is hooked up to a fitting on the mason jar, a clear 1/4" line is then hooked up to a second fitting on the mason jar to the fitting on the caliper. Turn the vacuum on, vacuum is now at the mason jar and the 1/4" line, I loosen the caliper fitting and viola!, I know when it's time to close the fitting by watching the color of the brake fluid change from gold to blue or vice-versa. It only takes a minute to do each caliper and I've always had great results. Just make sure you have sufficient fluid in the master cylinder reservoir. All the used brake fluid is now neatly collected in the jar.

Eric G

Lagavulin,
Yes, I did bleed the 2 valves on each caliper.

Oscar,
Sounds like an excelent method - but a little late for me now!

dr bob

Hi Eric--

Bleeding using the power bleeder is the easiest way to do the job, and usually the safest. With the bleeder hooked up and full of fluid, pumped up a little for pressure, start at the right rear wheel. Do the inner bleeder nipple then the outer. Same on the left rear, then right front, left front.

There may be a bleeder nipple on the master cylinder itself. If there is, start out with that one before doing the wheels. You --may-- want to try pressing the pedal down about half way while bleeding through that master cylinder port. Otherwise you probably don't want to touch the pedal.

Moisture that gathers in the reservoir attacks the master cylinder first. Sometimes there will be a little bit of crud/rust/scale in there that gathers in the front, out of the normal stroke range of the MC. Bleeding that stuff all the way to the wheel means it risks gathering in the proportioning/bias valve, the ABS pump or regulator, or in the bottom of one of the calipers. Unfortunately or fortunately, the bleed nipples are all mounted at the tops of the calipers. Great for getting the air out, not so hot if you need to get rocks out.

-----------------------

If there is still air in the system, you will get it out by bleeding in the correct order. It's pretty tough to get air in there using the power bleeder, unless you let the bleeder and the reservoir get too low on fluid. Then you pump a big bubble in there. Still pretty easy to get it all out eventually though.


Running the car with the rear suspension fully extended can easily give you some vibrations. The CV joints are at extreme angles and may contribute since they are out of their normal axis. Put the car on the ground and drive it, gently/carefully at first after testing the pedal at a standstill, and see if there are pedal pulses or vibrations.

In my limited experience, brake-induced vibrations are only caused by warped rotors. There may be suspension issues that react to brake rotor vibrations, but they only add to the existing problem.


Let us know what you find!

Thom1

Hi Eric,

Sounds like you are not bleeding properly.

BLEED SEQUENCE: Master Cylinder, RR, LR, RF, LF. Do inner bleeder then outer on each caliper before moving to the next caliper. Use ATE Super Blue Racing brake fluid. Alternate flushes with Gold formula. It is German with a high boiling point.


Make sure the reservoir level never gets low.

Thom1

Another Thought,... It is never too late to do it over right. As you said,... mushy pedal,... could be air in the system.

See www.pelicanparts.com for brake BLEEDING procedures. I use a one man bleeding tool. It is just a check valve (one way) that slides over the bleeder. I pump the pedal with the car running until I see solid blue going through the tool's clear hose, add some more pumps, then close the bleeder valve. (However, now I would start by using the check valve type of bleeder valve (speed bleeder). I keep filling the reservoir up to where I can see fluid so I am sure no air is getting in. Pressurizers that keep adequate fluid in the reservoir should be fine, too.

Eric G

Thanks everyone for your help.

I did the bleeding sequence as Dr Bob and Thom noted, except I did the outer valve first, and then the inner, on each caliper. I didn't know about the Master Cylinder, so I'll check that out. I did use the Super Racing Blue fluid.

Sounds like I just need to do it again the right way and then test it off of the jackstands.

Have to get some more fluid first, though, so I'll let you know when I'm done!

Eric G

Thanks for your help everyone. Brakes work fine now. I just bled them all over again and did find some air bubbles. The master cylinder was ok with no air or debris.