SteveG

All: Can anyone enlighten me the subject of crush washers?

I'm replacing transmission cooling and P/S steering lines on a '93. The cooling lines have alu washers on the banjo at the trans. and the P/S at the rack are copper. They are the same size and carry the same fluid.

I went to NAPA to get replacements in copper. To the naked eye they looked exactly the same; I didn't take the bolt, big mistake. I bought all he had which was 9 for $6.75; they will not fit over the inner section of the bolt. After striking out at Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Pep Boys, I went to M/B. He asked whether I wanted alu or copper. I opted for cu and I won't tell you how much it hurt ($$), but at least they fit. It's all a learn experience.

Anyway I'm hoping cu is better considering the price and the fact that the new banjo has a small indent on the critical contact surface, but the washer is supposed to take care of that, right? Sorry, I can't post a pic from this location.

dr bob

I wouldn't bet on any washer sealing a damaged surface. A dent usually has raised metal around it that will scratch or gall the washer, for more leaking. I'd replace the banjo.


I put Teflon pipe sealing paste on the threads and the washer faces. Reduce the torque some for the slipperier threads.

Mrmerlin

FWIW IMHO ....If the banjo has a damaged surface scuttle it,

In a pinch You could use the old one it ,
if the orifice holes don't look elongated should work fine.
Or better yet, get a fresh new Banjo bolt.

I dont recommend putting sealing paste on the rack banjos threads.
This could come off in the lines and possibly plug one of the orifices.

Instead consider this

When you get a new rebuilt rack from 928 INTL,
it also comes with a small container of dark brown sealing liquid,
you would dip the new sealing washers into the liquid then install them.

As far as using the AL VS CU sealing washers.

The CU washers are stronger and this would be better to use them at the rack,
due to the vibration that the rack sees.

As always dont super tighten the banjos,
as you can stretch them and they will shear off at the orifice holes.

The AL washers work well for the pan sealing since its made of softer metal.

FWIW Roger has all of these sealing washers and new Banjos,
always a good idea to have some spares for the fuel pump 3,
and the rack 4

GregBBRD

Stan pretty well covered it all, as usual.

The only other thing, that he did not mention, is to never use a replacement washer with a larger OD.

A larger OD sealing washer will be very difficult to seal on a banjo that originally came with a small OD washer....especially on banjo bolts.

The original sealing washer leaves a groove in the actual banjo....if you look really close, you can see this "ledge". A larger OD washer may not "conform" well tot his "split level" surface and leak....no matter how tight you try and make the banjo bolt.

And over tightening the banjo bolt just "crushes" the banjo.....resulting in an even more difficult surface to seal.

For instance, the automatic transmission lines in a 928, originally came with a 14mm x 18mm sealing washer. It is common to get a 14mm x 20mm replacement....and a large percentage of the time, it will be very difficult to use these larger OD sealing washers and not have a leak.

The same issue occurs with the fuel pump. Original sealing washers were 12mm x 16mm. A 12mm x 18mm replacement is common....and may not seal.

While you (anyone reading this) may never have an issue with this problem, however in the volume of vehicles that I see, I've run into this problem many, many times.

Stromius

Just did this with Thomas and supplied by Rog100 (!). CU and yes make sure banjos and clean by spraying with brake or carb cleaner. Crush washers are one time so if you have to take mess up and loosen or them off, toss em, start over.

paul29

A new crush washer is always preferred but if you do not have a replacement and have to get going hang the used washer on a screwdriver and heat it with a small propane torch or the like until it starts to change colour, the metal will expand and when cooled it can be reused. Play the flame back and forth as you will ruin the washer with a direct steady flame as it is small and both copper and aluminum heat very quickly. I have never had a washer leak after this recovery method but I have overheated the washer, warped it, and of course it was then useless.

SteveG

Thanks all for the info. Pics coming. I assume then they didn't use alu in some applications not b/c it was incompatible with the mating surface, it's more a question of criticality and CU is superior, but does cost more? Example, Oil drain plug = easy to get to, not a big deal.

Note: I'm replacing the banjo that the hose shop installed. B/c new line is available (i was told NLA two months ago), but $314, so going to try and re-use old hard portion of line, if they didn't destroy basic dimensions. Two months ago, new line was $109, painful lesson about calling multiple suppliers to get parts.

Speedtoys

Ive been in pinches and had to re-use CU washers.

And when I do..I will anneal them.