So I guess I'm going to break down and have my engine rebuilt
#1
Racer
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I'm considering having a supercharger or turbo added while I'm at it.
My question for those that have done it, any regrets? Would you do it again?
I haven't decided which, so I'm open to opinions on that as well. I've searched, and found some good info, but not enough to make up my mind. I guess I don't have to worry about ruining resale value.![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Thanks in advance, everybody!!
ETA: '84 5-speed, 125k on the odo.
My question for those that have done it, any regrets? Would you do it again?
I haven't decided which, so I'm open to opinions on that as well. I've searched, and found some good info, but not enough to make up my mind. I guess I don't have to worry about ruining resale value.
![Big Grin](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/biggrin.gif)
Thanks in advance, everybody!!
ETA: '84 5-speed, 125k on the odo.
Last edited by mi650; 10-06-2013 at 04:16 PM. Reason: Update
#3
Three Wheelin'
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IMO anything like this where major teardown is involved is a slippery slope to spending tons of money. We call it "WYIT" (While You're In There)...
#4
Racer
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#5
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Probably the only thing that makes sense for a US '84 car with a bad motor is just to replace the motor with a low mile used motor of the same vintage. Well under $1K, I would think and not that hard to do. Anything else, you are looking at spending many times the value of the car, and it will be money you will never see again.
#7
Racer
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Yea, I might have a new clutch put in too.
And then, if I'm going to put a decent chunk of money in the engine, she could use a paint job.
Although it's not bad, the interior could use some refreshing.
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#8
Three Wheelin'
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On the S4 engines if noting has been done to them, like old sensors, seals, hoses,...
Your looking at something close to 10,000 $ when its all said and done. That's parts and machine shop cost, you do the labor. Keep in mind that with a price like that your reusing your old valves, valve springs, pistons, rods, and crank. At least for me thats about how much it cost. You will just get in a slippery slope. It gets expensive pretty quickly. Not sure how much cheaper its going to get for a 16 valve. But at least you are not going to have to pay 200-300$ on sensors.
I would only do a full rebuild if:
A) Its a GTS engine (new stronger rods, drill oil drain back holes in the piston)
B) A GT that has spun a rod bearing, and want to keep the matching number engine (its basically the same short block as the one on the S4 but the serial number stamped on the block is different)
C) A stroker project, if I had time and extra coin laying around.
In any other case like what your doing, I would just buy a gasket kit and reseal the engine with new head gaskets and seals, and fresh machining work on the heads (valve job, new valve guides, new valve seals,...). If you want, remove the #2 and 6 rod bearing and inspect for any wear. If there is any wear that concerns you change all the rod bearings and reinstall with new rod nuts. If the rod bearings are all chewed up, then you have to split the case to check the main bearings. Which in that case the crank shaft could be damaged. Then it would be cheaper to find another short block that is in good condition.
There is no sense in taking the whole thing apart when it was working fine.
Its just not worth fully rebuilding the engine, you will never get your money back and its a huge project. Some never finish. But doing a full out of car engine refresh with new gaskets, yes its worth it. You get to have new head gaskets instead of 25-30 year old ones.
Your looking at something close to 10,000 $ when its all said and done. That's parts and machine shop cost, you do the labor. Keep in mind that with a price like that your reusing your old valves, valve springs, pistons, rods, and crank. At least for me thats about how much it cost. You will just get in a slippery slope. It gets expensive pretty quickly. Not sure how much cheaper its going to get for a 16 valve. But at least you are not going to have to pay 200-300$ on sensors.
I would only do a full rebuild if:
A) Its a GTS engine (new stronger rods, drill oil drain back holes in the piston)
B) A GT that has spun a rod bearing, and want to keep the matching number engine (its basically the same short block as the one on the S4 but the serial number stamped on the block is different)
C) A stroker project, if I had time and extra coin laying around.
In any other case like what your doing, I would just buy a gasket kit and reseal the engine with new head gaskets and seals, and fresh machining work on the heads (valve job, new valve guides, new valve seals,...). If you want, remove the #2 and 6 rod bearing and inspect for any wear. If there is any wear that concerns you change all the rod bearings and reinstall with new rod nuts. If the rod bearings are all chewed up, then you have to split the case to check the main bearings. Which in that case the crank shaft could be damaged. Then it would be cheaper to find another short block that is in good condition.
There is no sense in taking the whole thing apart when it was working fine.
Its just not worth fully rebuilding the engine, you will never get your money back and its a huge project. Some never finish. But doing a full out of car engine refresh with new gaskets, yes its worth it. You get to have new head gaskets instead of 25-30 year old ones.
#9
Racer
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Probably the only thing that makes sense for a US '84 car with a bad motor is just to replace the motor with a low mile used motor of the same vintage. Well under $1K, I would think and not that hard to do. Anything else, you are looking at spending many times the value of the car, and it will be money you will never see again.
Yea, well aware of this part. To do it all, $18-20k, and then it would be worth maybe 13 or 14? And this doesn't count the 10 I have in it.
#10
Three Wheelin'
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I can't see a high mileage 16 valve being worth that much if the paint, interior were in perfect condition and all the deferred maintenance where done. Good nice later twin dizzy euros could sell for 13-15K. Not a US car unless its all nice, original with super low miles.
#12
Racer
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I can't see a high mileage 16 valve being worth that much if the paint, interior were in perfect condition and all the deferred maintenance where done. Good nice later twin dizzy euros could sell for 13-15K. Not a US car unless its all nice, original with super low miles.
Just a wild guess on my part. I could put all kinds of money in it, and never get it back.
But, I like the car a lot.
#13
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If you need 4.5/4.7 L OEM Goetze piston rings that are not uber expensive, try design911UK.co.uk. I got a full set for $46 US each piston, about 1/3 of the stateside prices. But they take their sweet time shipping them. DO NOT USE DEVES piston rings that are sold on Pelican.com.
I am in the middle of a 4.5 rebuild. If you do your own work, my costs are about $1200 in parts and about $1400 in machine work. But saying that, I am reusing the main bearings, they have been miked and have zero wear. New gaskets all around, one used piston from Mark, new rings, new connecting rod bearings, new TB (stupid not to), two new valves, guides, seats, etc.
The water pump/oil pump, belt tensioner has only 3K miles and oil pan stud kit/gasket, oil sender, motor mounts, plugs, wires, rotor, cap green wire, Witch Hunter done injectors fuel/vacuum lines are brand new.
The motor only had 85K but sometime in the past, something got down in #8 cylinder and damaged the top of the piston, the combustion chamber and put a very small nick in the bore. That bore is being very lightly honed to remove the nick and all others are being re coated. My machine guy has a lot experience with these engines and is doing me a solid with the pricing, retired military like myself.
I know I will never see the $ back or the hundreds of hours I have invested in this car with a new Greg Brown gearbox, new paint from the PO, essentially a new engine, new interior, AC compressor, new steering rack, clutch, 18 inch twists and rubber and everything else I have done to the car since April. But it will shortly be very reliable (there isn't much left to go wrong!) and good for many years.
In the end, I will have about as much in the car as I would have spent for a middle of the road 67 Mustang (not a fastback) that needs a bit of work with no AC and it looks 10 times better IMHO. Believe me, you need AC in Texas!
Damn the torpedoes and full speed ahead!
I am in the middle of a 4.5 rebuild. If you do your own work, my costs are about $1200 in parts and about $1400 in machine work. But saying that, I am reusing the main bearings, they have been miked and have zero wear. New gaskets all around, one used piston from Mark, new rings, new connecting rod bearings, new TB (stupid not to), two new valves, guides, seats, etc.
The water pump/oil pump, belt tensioner has only 3K miles and oil pan stud kit/gasket, oil sender, motor mounts, plugs, wires, rotor, cap green wire, Witch Hunter done injectors fuel/vacuum lines are brand new.
The motor only had 85K but sometime in the past, something got down in #8 cylinder and damaged the top of the piston, the combustion chamber and put a very small nick in the bore. That bore is being very lightly honed to remove the nick and all others are being re coated. My machine guy has a lot experience with these engines and is doing me a solid with the pricing, retired military like myself.
I know I will never see the $ back or the hundreds of hours I have invested in this car with a new Greg Brown gearbox, new paint from the PO, essentially a new engine, new interior, AC compressor, new steering rack, clutch, 18 inch twists and rubber and everything else I have done to the car since April. But it will shortly be very reliable (there isn't much left to go wrong!) and good for many years.
In the end, I will have about as much in the car as I would have spent for a middle of the road 67 Mustang (not a fastback) that needs a bit of work with no AC and it looks 10 times better IMHO. Believe me, you need AC in Texas!
Damn the torpedoes and full speed ahead!
#14
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"That bore is being very lightly honed to remove the nick and all others are being re coated."
Recoated? I hope that you meant "...and all bores are being chemically honed to restore the factory finish."
Recoated? I hope that you meant "...and all bores are being chemically honed to restore the factory finish."