kaelix

When I bought the car I knew it had a ps leak, so when i did the TB/WP I rebuilt the pump (new seals, crush washers on banjo connections). I got a new ps reservoir and setup new hoses for both outlets (cut old connectors to use clamps and bulk hose).

I still have a power steering leak, it looks like it's coming from the high pressure hose (round black restrictor?).

I removed the alternator and disconnected hp hose from the pump but i'm still fighting with the bolt on the rack side. I'm letting it soak in PB right now.

I plan to get the hp hose rebuilt locally (with swivel fittings for easier install). My question is it possible to rebuild the other hose (spring at rack, not sure what it's called) that runs along side the hp hose, or since it's not leaking and looks to be in good shape should i leave well enough alone?

If i should rebuild it, it looks to terminate with a clamp near the coil, i assume there's a barb, if i were to remove the clamp would I just have to pull it off the barb and rebuild it from that point back to rack? I've included some pictures.

Mrmerlin

the hose you have pictured is an easy fix ,all you need is a dremel.
Remove the coil push it out of the way,
then cut the swage off the hose,
remove the screw clamp,
and then remove the hose .

Go to the hose shop buy some hydro hose then mount the hose to the lines use screw clamps.

If the spring hose at the rack isnt leaking leave it alone they dont usually leak

kaelix

Great since it's not currently leaking and I don't have to take the alt down again should it start leaking later, I'll leave it alone, thanks again Mr Merlin.

Also on a side note, everything i read before i started this mentioned how difficult taking the alt down was, but i didn't seem to have that much trouble.

Based on this guide:
http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/alternat.htm

They mention the alt screws into the block, but mine "hangs" from the PS pump, while it was tight getting the bolt out with the rad hose and fan still in place, I didn't have much issue, and my motor mounts were replaced 10k ago, so I don't think the engine is riding low (something else that was mentioned elsewhere).

So did i get lucky, have some type of different setup, or were there changes from 87 to 88 (the MY of the guide) that make the alt harder to remove?

Mrmerlin

the alternator came out easily because your a great wrench,
Keep up the great work!

kaelix

LOL i doubt that. I looked at Dwayne's write up for TB/WP looks like his setup is the same as mine so must be a MY difference. Oh well hope it goes back in as easily.

Mrmerlin

just dont let the alternator hang on its harness,
as this can damage the blue wire and cause charging issues,
hang the alternator with a piece of coat hanger

kaelix

I've actually got the whole car raised using liftbars on jackstands, alt is sitting on a box with enough slack in the cable. I just wished I had known this hose was going to be a problem when everything was apart for the TB/WP.

Right now I'm assuming it is the problem, the rubber outer sleeve of the hard line , when i look from below, has a ATF drops and looks wet when i was positive I cleaned everything before buttoning up. The puddle had to come from somewhere. With pretty much everything else replaced, and nothing else seeming wet, could I have missed another possible source of the ATF on that side (since the belly pan was only wet on that side)?

StratfordShark

To get it backin easily make sure you use a clamp to squeeze the bushing back into tab at back of alternator (pivot bolt goes through there to suspend alternator).

Also helps if someone can line up pivot bolt while you push the heavy alternatorup into position. Stronger guys than me manage by themselves though, or they use a jack to get alt into position.

Bill Ball

Before you condemn that PS hose, look carefully at the two hoses at the bottom of the reservoir. Although these are low/zero pressure hoses, over time the ends under the clamps become compressed and hard and almost always begin to leak. The leaks drip on everything else in the area and make them look like they are leaking. If you find wetness at one or both of these hoses, try what I did years ago that has resolved it for me. Drain the reservoir - you can do this by removing the cap and suctioning it out with an ear syringe bulb (better yet, a turkey baster) or unclamping and tilting the reservoir down to drain it. Then if there is enough slack (there was for me) in the hose(s), cut off the last 1/2 inch that was under the hose clamp(s) and reclamp the "fresh" end. I found the rest of the hose to be perfectly pliable and the new end has not leaked since. Been at least 5 years. Some day when I have the PS pump hanging down for some reason I'll replace these hoses, but so far I haven't had any reason to after this simple fix.