in the middle of a TB WP...couple questions
#1
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I'm in the middle of doing a TB job...
Found a couple issues and have a few questions.
1) I need to replace distributor and rotor....does the rotor just bolt the same way as the old one, on or is there an adjustment that needs to be done?
2) In the first photo, the arrow points to a very cracked hose...I think it is the oil line to the cooler? How difficult is it to replace this? is there a write-up somewhere?
3) In the second photo, there is a metal line that has broken off the exhaust...what is it for?
thanks in advance
John
Found a couple issues and have a few questions.
1) I need to replace distributor and rotor....does the rotor just bolt the same way as the old one, on or is there an adjustment that needs to be done?
2) In the first photo, the arrow points to a very cracked hose...I think it is the oil line to the cooler? How difficult is it to replace this? is there a write-up somewhere?
3) In the second photo, there is a metal line that has broken off the exhaust...what is it for?
thanks in advance
John
#2
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what exactly do you mean replace the distributor? they dont usually give any problems.
The rotor should line up with the hash mark on the seating area of the cap when the engine is at TDC, it pulls straight off the shaft
NOTE if your going to remove the distributor from the cam tower then mark the housing so you can return it to its original location
In the first picture might what your seeing be an insulation covering the hose underneath ?
the 2nd picture shows the exhaust sample tube broken off ,
soak the cap nut in PB blaster,
and try to unscrew it, if it wont come free then use some torch heat ,
being mindful of the fuel lines wrap them in wet rags first.
once the cap comes off remove the internal piece of hose,
then use either a ball bearing or a small mushroom cap screw into the hole then install the cap nut with some anti seize,
NOTE the rest of the metal line can be removed this was used at the dealer level for servicing.
The rotor should line up with the hash mark on the seating area of the cap when the engine is at TDC, it pulls straight off the shaft
NOTE if your going to remove the distributor from the cam tower then mark the housing so you can return it to its original location
In the first picture might what your seeing be an insulation covering the hose underneath ?
the 2nd picture shows the exhaust sample tube broken off ,
soak the cap nut in PB blaster,
and try to unscrew it, if it wont come free then use some torch heat ,
being mindful of the fuel lines wrap them in wet rags first.
once the cap comes off remove the internal piece of hose,
then use either a ball bearing or a small mushroom cap screw into the hole then install the cap nut with some anti seize,
NOTE the rest of the metal line can be removed this was used at the dealer level for servicing.
#3
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Thanks,
sorry, meant to say that I am replacing the distributor caps (one has a large piece broken off) and the rotor underneath. I was just wondering if the rotors where like previous types of cars I have done (where they only fit on the shaft one way), or should I mark the position before removal.
sorry, meant to say that I am replacing the distributor caps (one has a large piece broken off) and the rotor underneath. I was just wondering if the rotors where like previous types of cars I have done (where they only fit on the shaft one way), or should I mark the position before removal.
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Maybe I just dont see enough engine bays to work it out, but PLEASE provide your model year and version - ie US/ROW etc ...I assume you mean refit the distributor? In a 16V the rotors are push on, so maybe the mention of bolts means its a 32V ?
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
#5
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if you have a 32 valve engine the rotors will only fit one way.
NOTE with the engine at TDC ,
the rotors should both be pointing to the driver side fender for a USA car.
NOTE with the engine at TDC ,
the rotors should both be pointing to the driver side fender for a USA car.
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 09-20-2013 at 12:19 AM.
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What Stan wrote (once it was pointed that it's a 32v)
As for the 'hose' ... can't tell. Need better picture at a different angle. At this point it looks like it 'doesn't belong...'
As for the 'hose' ... can't tell. Need better picture at a different angle. At this point it looks like it 'doesn't belong...'
#10
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The hose is on the right side of the car. Looks like it is leading to the oil cooler (I think that is what is sitting up in front of the rad?)
I will try to get a better pic tomorrow.
thanks
John
I will try to get a better pic tomorrow.
thanks
John
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could that line be the hi pressure line from the AC system?
need a better picture.
Also if you look carefully at the rotor picture in post 6 ,
you will see an arrow close to the rotor tip, on the timing cover,
these are also reminders for where the rotors should point at TDC.
Good catch Craig, Engine ground is green, time for a better ground strap
need a better picture.
Also if you look carefully at the rotor picture in post 6 ,
you will see an arrow close to the rotor tip, on the timing cover,
these are also reminders for where the rotors should point at TDC.
Good catch Craig, Engine ground is green, time for a better ground strap
Last edited by Mrmerlin; 09-20-2013 at 12:20 AM.
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