dr bob

Denny--

Nice illustrations of the battery vent locations. I used the hose you show in the bag (comes with the Group 48 flooded-cell battery), and a piece of handy drip irrigation tubing out through the grommet with the positive cable, and venting below the bottom of the battery box behind the differential cover. Small wire ties masquerade as corrosion-proof hose clamps on that hose and tubing.

The last picture is the hold-down bracket for the battery. It wedges down from the rear, bolt hole flange at the top pointing to the rear of the car. There's an Allen-head bolt that squeezes down on that flange, and engages the lip at the bottom rear of the battery with the thin end of the bracket. At the bottom front of the well, there's a Z-clip that engages the battery, so the wedging and squeexing hold the battery very securely. BTW, those brackets are NLA new and scarce in the used market. Don't lose it!

depami

Thanks dr bob, I know what it is and how it installs. I was attempting to be sarcastic (hence the emoticon) in reference to this thread started by SeanR.

Also notice that the positive post covers are still in place.

dr bob

Sorry-- Don't know how I missed the sarcasm theme. Do I dish it out myself? Noooo.

928NOOBIE

Another simple and easy maintenance item that will make a difference is cleaning the connection to both the control units under the passenger side of the dash.

I have been struggling with consistent idle recovery for some time. I've cleaned grounds and locked down vacuum leaks but still had issues.

Taking the units out of the car; lightly burnishing and giving both the cable connectors and the spades on the units themselves a good spray or two with DeOxit and carefully reinstalling made a significant difference; idle recovery from my test drive was 100% consistent and spot on...the tach drops and just stops between 600 and 800 rpm marks...no bouncing...I was happy and impressed with the difference this simple maintenance item made.

When spraying the control units hold them upside down and spray from the side on the spades; then I allow them to drain by setting them on a couple paper towels and angling them to ensure any excess cleaning fluid from the DeOxit spray does not run into the control unit.

When I pulled off the cable connections I could see powdery corrosion on the actual metal connections on both the cable connectors and the control units. It was also on the rubber gasket that is supposed to keep dirt and pollutants out. The visible powdery residue will degrade the quality / consistency of the signal being presented to the unit which in turn impacts how the car runs...garbage in, garbage out.

One thing I noticed as I was carefully burnishing the cable connectors: those are the female side of the connection and not all of the connectors have the same amount of tension to grab the spades with...so any corrosion is going to have uneven impacts to the individual connections.

Finishing up, I put a light layer of petroleum jelly on the rubber seal on the cable connector side and when re-connecting, gently but firmly connected/disconnected/reconnected the cable connector a few times to ensure that a fresh, clean connection was made.

Made a world of difference and only took a little honest elbow grease.

As always, make sure you disconnect battery first before beginning this job...first from a safety perspective but secondly to ensure no risk of accidental damage to the control units when re-connecting their cable connections.

Alan

No! It vents directly from the battery (which should have one or 2 vent ports ) - through to fresh air - try to set it to not intake spray and to create a small venturi effect.

If your battery has 2 vent ports connect to both via a "T" or plug one.

Here is an example of a dual vent battery - feeds through a new grommet hole near the main feeder and wraps back around the side of the battery box (secured with clips).

Alan

martinss

Just adjusted the throttle assembly on my '90, not just transmission cable - it does indeed make the car come alive. Highly recommended.

BTW, this Bowden cable thing is confusing. Strictly speaking, all four cables in the assembly are Bowden cables - see definition. Why the name seems to have been attached to only one of the four beats me.

The Fixer

I'll take one 928 ROG,

Replaced mine with a non-braided cheapo from Auto Zone.

Bertrand Daoust

You Guys convinced me!
Got one coming from Roger.

MainePorsche

Another preservation/maintenance item on the car that makes a notable difference is replacing the motor mounts.

tlebovic

Prior to the start of driving season here I did 2 things that transformed the driving experience. One was sort of expensive, the other relatively cheap.

1) Replaced the torque tube bearings with Constantines Super Bearings. I didn't realize just how noisy the old bearings were until it got so bad I couldn't stand it anymore. Aside from a mix up in the shaft size (I bought the car used and it had been replaced at some point prior with the earlier shaft) the installation went smoothly. Even my mechanic was impressed with the quality of Constantine's parts.

2) Installed both neoprene foam pads from Jager Engineering in the hatch. The original pads had decomposed into some sort of really sticky goo and scraping it off the spare tire, well, lug wrench, compressor box etc. was a real chore.

I'm amazed at how much quieter the car is now. The rumble that I used to hear around 1800RPM is gone and at a steady cruise the car is whisper quiet. Way better than any 24 year old car with 150k miles has a right to be.

I used the car to take my son to college in Oberlin, OH (1100 miles round trip). We left Saturday morning and I returned home on Sunday. 18hours of driving over 2 days and I was ready to do more. Even the OH and PA Turnpike speeds were much higher than I remember. All in all a great trip,

Tom
89 S4 Auto Black/Linen/Black piping

ROG100

Sorry I made a mistake on the price of the ground strap - they are $28.25 each

depami

^^^^^ Bait and switch!!! .

Roger, don't be scaring us away. .

Tom in Austin

End of the world!!

EMan 928

Are these the pads you are referring to: http://www.jageng.com/garage9/produc...roducts_id=568

ROG100

I am sure these are the pads made and supplied by Rob Budd at the www.classic9leathershop.com

Buy direct.