StratfordShark

I've got a serious problem here.

Set about changing the tranny oil today. First problem was that the write-ups I'd seen said the torque converter drain is accessible with the crank indicator at 20. In fact after a lot of head scratching (lining up precisely at 20 both before and after OT) with no sign of the drain, I found it is perfectly in centre of access window with the pointer not pointing at any number! The numbers are correct way round on the balancer, so I wonder if the "drain accessible with crank at 20" does not apply to all transmissions?

That's a curiosity but not the problem. The converter plug came out easily and I drained all the oil. Then I put same allen socket in the sump drain and it just turned like the head was made of cheese and rounded the drain plug. In fact I looked at photos I'd taken earlier (I like to record jobs) and it looks like that plug was rounded by someone else before me (first time I'd tried to change tranny oil on this car)

So I hammered on an Irwin extractor and that just chewed up the drain plug too (see photo).

So unless I'm making a huge error and that's not the sump drain plug, how do you think I can extract that plug now? I'm not half way through a change with the converter drained and would like to drain what's in the sump too.

Suggestions gratefully received! I'm baffled as there should be so little torque on those tranny drains anyway, so I'd not expect any risk of them being stuck like this.

davek9

If you can not get vice grips on the bolt, then use a steel chisel and gently tap it around, remember rightey tighty, lefty loosely

76FJ55

it's messy but you always have the option to drop the pan and drain that way. you will need to remove the pan to do the filter change anyway. a nd with the pan off and on the bench it may allow better access to the drain plug to try to extract it. Porsche was nice enough to give you a drain plug, most domestic cars don't have them and removal of the pan is the common method to drain those.

mark kibort

a large vice grip will do the trick. looks like you have some meat to work with.
the chizel wont work.
next option is to weld a bolt to it and then wrench it out.

Mrmerlin

take a small sharp chisel to the flat side of the plug and tap into the plug so it makes a cut a few MM deep,
then with a dull chisel tap into the cut this should loosen the plug make sure you have a new plug and sealing washer .



https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...plug-help.html

davek9

Dumping the pan is a good option, like said your going to remove it anyway, don't see why the chisel method wouldn't work Mark.

Dave

StratfordShark

Thanks Mark.

There wasn't enough to grab with vise grips - awkward having the moulded depression around the plug.

I'm not a welder, so think I'll try cutting some flats on the head so the bolt extractors have more to grip.

Dropping sump full of tranny fluid last but acceptable option!

Mrmerlin

cut a groove in the plug face at an angle,
then with a dull chisel strike the groove sharply use a mallet on the chisel,
the plug will spin free

FBIII

+!
Don't be afraid to hit it with a chisel. This method is dam near foolproof.

123quattro

Time to install a manual trans! (kidding...good luck)

Leon Speed

Or hammer in a torx bit

Ultimately if you decide to remove the pan is isn't all bad since you need to replace the trans filter anyway.

StratfordShark

Failure so far. I'd expect a hub nut to put up a fight but not a sump plug!

Tried chisel. Cut a groove, kept hitting at angle with dull chisel and didn't budge a fraction.

Tried hammering in torx bit, just turned and chewed up head even more.

Tried cutting some flats for bolt extractor but the extractor just chewed up metal even more.

So I will have to drop sump and just leave the plug in there. The reservoir has a connection to metal tube to sump - can I just unbolt sump and reservoir will come with it? Some of the write-ups talk about removing bracket attached to reservoir but I'm not sure why as reservoir just connects to sump via tube? That plastic connector to the suction tube doesn't want to move either. Already broken off 1 of the 4 tabs...

Leon Speed

The pan and reservoir come off as one unit, no need to loosen the plastic connector. Only tricky thing is the reservoir overflow hose connects the reservoir to the trans above the pan. It needs to come off.

Mrmerlin

when you drop the pan,
remove the vent hose from the transmission.

not the top of the reservoir.
the trans has a metal hose the reservoir is plastic and its much easier to break the plastic , this will then require a new tank and possibly a new hose,
the hose is thick wall with a small ID.

As a last resort try hitting the plug with a torch, mapp gas works best,
a few blasts then try the chisel.
I know that the fluid in the pan will cool the plug,
but heating the outside may expand the head enough so it comes free,
and there is a chance that loctite was used to seal this plug so heat is the only way to loosen it
NOTE wipe any fluid clean with with acetone first and make sure there isnt any fluid wetness

StratfordShark

Thanks Stan. I have a small blowtorch which has been effective on other stuck bolts, so will give that a try tomorrow.

Will remove hose from trans if it's there! I felt around top of reservoir to see if I could remove it with pan, and I'm pretty sure I felt a short tube at top but no hose attached! I thought may be an overflow.

Will double check tomorrow - I may be wrong. One reason I'm changing oil, filteer and gasket is because there is always a patch of tranny fluid under car when it's left to stand for a day or more. Maybe vent hose missing and that's where it's leaked? Only tiny amount though - makes greasy patch not pool of fluid. Change has been smooth in past - just got slightly harder since I changed rad and lost a little tranny fluid disconnecting the cooler pipes.