johnu

some idiot tightened my torque converter plug so tight that it won't budge, AND the plug hex hole is stripped!

any ideas on how to remove it?

thanks
John

Leon Speed

Tap a slightly larger torx bit in, that will get you enough grip to loosen the plug. Replace the plug with a new one.

Mrmerlin

if that wont work take a small sharp chisel to a side of the plug and tap into the plug so it makes a cut then with a dull chisel tap into the cut this should loosen the plug make sure you have a new plug and sealing washer

johnu

the torx didn't work
I will try a screw extractor...if that doesn't work I will try the chisel idea...and a new plug is definitely a must!!!

thanks
John

Lizard928

Craftsman has bolt extractors that grab onto the outer edge. That would be my first choice

M. Requin

If you want to try Colin's suggestion let me know- my 928 is on the lift and I have a set of the extractors he referred to (Irwin, very respected). I can check and make sure that one of their sizes fits (believe me, it's not a given). In any event good luck, and let me know if I can help.

johnu

Thanks Martin,
If you could let me know what size fits I would appreciated it. I probably won't be able to find Irwin in Canada, but maybe something similar.

John

M. Requin

Will do, I'll try to get to the shop tonight, but no later than tomorrow AM first thing.

SMTCapeCod

My first attempt, in the interest of avoiding further damage, is usually to wrap the allen in a rag, or fibrous towel and tap it into the hole. Good results, depending on degree of overtorque that was applied and/or corrosion that has happened in the intervening years. Helped for that bugger intake allen bolt, and a couple cam cover bolts more recently.

Ed Scherer

Might one of those hand "hammer powered" impact drivers (with an Allen or Torx bit) be a good weapon for this?

p9281990

Irwin extractor

I used one on my brake caliper bolt and it worked perfect.

M. Requin

OK I checked mine this AM (good timing, doing a tranny oil change anyway and had to turn the TC to get to the drain bolt). The extractor set I referred to is this: http://www.toolbarn.com/irwin-394001...FYui4AodxD8ATA ( I have the add-on to this set which has 5 more sizes, and the one that comes closest to fitting is the "9/16"-14mm". I see 2 problems with using it however: there isn't much clearance to put it on, and there isn't much bolt head to grab. The internal type suggested by p9281990 might be better, maybe Colin could comment on this.

Also, SMTCapeCod's idea is good. In my experience an allen wrench (given it IS the right size) buggers the hole in the screw cap by twisting out, leaving a small bit of internal hex in the screw. I've been lucky tapping in an allen socket and very carefully backing the screw out. The impact driver Ed suggested can sometimes be helpful if you have enough room.

Good luck with it!

johnu

Thanks everyone for your helpful comments. I won't get around to trying the plug removal again until after the weekend...I will be armed with all the tools I can find! I will post the (hopefully positive) results!

thanks
John

Mrmerlin

same problem as Stratford Shark

dr bob

Use Extreme Caution if you decide to try one of those hand impact drivers. In the end, the TC housing is pretty thin sheet metal. banging hard on it risks a little distortion from wheich there is not much good recovery. I'd be carefully drilling the head off ans someone suggested, then a tiny drill-through and a small screw extractor. Do Not Damage the Washer Seat Area. Once the head is off, the threaded barrel will come out much more easily unless some doofus put thread locker on it.


Like the galley drains and the oil drain plug, this is a prime candidate for a little dab of Teflon pipe sealing paste on the threads and washer on installation. It seals the thread pretty well, and also the washer faces once snugged up. Makes future removal much less stressful. Just needs to be snug then for a good seal, rather than !tight!.