Supercharger/ignition timing questions
#16
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Is the car that I saw at Sharktoberfest?
#17
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Get the car running the correct way first with the super charger belt off
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Sounds like an S3 car with an S4 intake.
By chance is this the wide body car once owned by Marcus? Used to be red but now is silver? I can't remember but this car might have lowered compression, not totally sure on that.
This sounds like the stepchild of a FAST and DeltaP pairing.
I can probably help you get this car going in the right direction but you will have to change a few things. 42lb injectors, S4 fuel regulator (get rid of the blue thing), Murf928 MAF adaptor, aluminum cast elbow with air straightener feeding into the MAF. Then Murf928 S3 chips and you should be really close if not right on.
The mechanical setup of the supercharger system might be another issue but that bridge can be crossed later.
Let me know if you would like my help.
By chance is this the wide body car once owned by Marcus? Used to be red but now is silver? I can't remember but this car might have lowered compression, not totally sure on that.
This sounds like the stepchild of a FAST and DeltaP pairing.
I can probably help you get this car going in the right direction but you will have to change a few things. 42lb injectors, S4 fuel regulator (get rid of the blue thing), Murf928 MAF adaptor, aluminum cast elbow with air straightener feeding into the MAF. Then Murf928 S3 chips and you should be really close if not right on.
The mechanical setup of the supercharger system might be another issue but that bridge can be crossed later.
Let me know if you would like my help.
#19
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Sounds like you have enough info and enough to do.
If it is a "3 bar map sensor" you should be able to just set the timing map the way you want it, and the sensor should adjust your load/timing. But you know all this.
Ill just watch.
If it is a "3 bar map sensor" you should be able to just set the timing map the way you want it, and the sensor should adjust your load/timing. But you know all this.
Ill just watch.
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#20
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Oh man, Marcus in LA
#21
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In addition to some other hands that have been in there as well that really shouldn't have been. There were a number of things done on this car that I sure wouldn't recommend, at least not to anybody I like. Some people really should not be working on this kind of stuff without supervision by someone who actually has an idea of what's really going on, and is aware of the implications of what they're doing.
There's really a good bit more to keeping the engine in one piece than simply retarding timing. Installing a MAP sensor somehow, or some of the knock sensor systems that I've seen for sale in different places, can easily result in nothing more than a false sense of security. I do find something like the **** on the dash to adjust ignition timing at will interesting though. Do you determine the optimum adjustment by turning the **** to increase timing until the engine blows up, then turn the **** back maybe a quarter turn or so?
When it's suggested that an owner ship a car to someone who knows what they're doing in a situation like this one, people often balk at the idea because of the cost. I wonder how much time and money has been put into this car so far. I can guarantee it's a lot more than what it would have cost to to have it done properly the first time, by someone who knows what they're doing, even if that would have required shipping the car to the other side of the earth and back.
#22
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For boosted applications John can supply a modified EZF with a 0-2 bar sensor, and rescaled maps for Sharktuner, which allow tuning ignition up to 2.0 bar (about 15 psi).
The EZK uses a load signal from the LH, which is derived from the MAF. This removes the 1.0 bar limitation.
But you knew all that.
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#24
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As with any SC application. Do a leak down...compression test..etc... find out what you have to work with, if anything. Get it running in some sort normally aspirated form first.... Cut the belt..take it off..what ever...just get it running with out the blower first. Should be easy enough to remove and get to back to some sort of stock intake set up. Then start chasing the gremlins. Gawwd knows what kind of airleaks you may have...or as you have seen, wrong wiring connections.
Start with a clean slate..even if it means going back a few steps.... but I think this car has issues deeper than just a bolted on supercharger.
I think you will be chasing your tail until you get to the bottom of the puking coolant and gassy oil issue.
Start with a clean slate..even if it means going back a few steps.... but I think this car has issues deeper than just a bolted on supercharger.
I think you will be chasing your tail until you get to the bottom of the puking coolant and gassy oil issue.
#25
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If 19 psi you will need a 3 bar map sensor in the ezf.
2 bar (absolute) is only good to 14.7 psi of boost.
I personally prefer the seimens deka 4 60# injectors.
They have great properties, reasonably priced and respond beautifully.
I agree that an S4 fpr is required.
At 19 psi they MUST have an inter cooler and you will need to monitor intake temps for tuning. I would be starting at around 10 deg of max advance under that much boost. Listening for detonation and turning it up/down from there.
Also I hope that it is just the S4 intake and not the heads! And if S4 heads then I hope that they put S4 or 951 pistons in it or the CR is going to be silly high.
Also talk to Brendan about the possibility of running E85.......
2 bar (absolute) is only good to 14.7 psi of boost.
I personally prefer the seimens deka 4 60# injectors.
They have great properties, reasonably priced and respond beautifully.
I agree that an S4 fpr is required.
At 19 psi they MUST have an inter cooler and you will need to monitor intake temps for tuning. I would be starting at around 10 deg of max advance under that much boost. Listening for detonation and turning it up/down from there.
Also I hope that it is just the S4 intake and not the heads! And if S4 heads then I hope that they put S4 or 951 pistons in it or the CR is going to be silly high.
Also talk to Brendan about the possibility of running E85.......
#26
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I am running a stock 89' 5.0 (with thicker .074 cometic headgaskets) using 42# injectors and the Super FMU with a 7-1 disk. At 15.5psi it turns 630rwhp with an auto. I don't pull any ignition at all and experience no knocks while maintaining a 12.5/1 afr at full boost. Granted, that's at 4400' altitude which does help a bit. BTW, this is being revamped due to 120ish psi fuel pressure at full boost. I built this one before the availability of a sharktuner. It actually idles great at just under 30psi static with 42# injectors.
I'm willing to bet that you are nowhere near 19psi as I am running the largest counter rotating straight outlet Vortech they make (V7Ysi) on this setup and it's maxed out at 15.5psi on a lowly 5.0 (once again at this altitude). I doubt that it is using the V7Ysi as I had to do a lot of "relocating" to fit this one. Let me know what model Vortech you are using, the pulley size and if you can find the disk size in the "great big blue" regulator (probably a Vortech Super FMU) and I can give you some help making it right.
.
I'm willing to bet that you are nowhere near 19psi as I am running the largest counter rotating straight outlet Vortech they make (V7Ysi) on this setup and it's maxed out at 15.5psi on a lowly 5.0 (once again at this altitude). I doubt that it is using the V7Ysi as I had to do a lot of "relocating" to fit this one. Let me know what model Vortech you are using, the pulley size and if you can find the disk size in the "great big blue" regulator (probably a Vortech Super FMU) and I can give you some help making it right.
.
It's cool to see that the engines actually makes that much. And that you dont need to change rods or pistons.
#27
Drifting
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I'm sure I posted a dyno sheet on it at 12psi when it only did 545rwhp, it's on here somewhere. We built it for a customer that ended up being scared of it so we bought it from him.
There is one gentleman on here that has a twin turbo that is trying to find the top limit of horsepower on a stock engine, he is 120hp above mine and still pushing.
I don't want to take this thread off topic very far, PM me for details. And now, back to your regular programming...
There is one gentleman on here that has a twin turbo that is trying to find the top limit of horsepower on a stock engine, he is 120hp above mine and still pushing.
I don't want to take this thread off topic very far, PM me for details. And now, back to your regular programming...
#28
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If this is Marcus's car, we should set up a viewing for all the old hacks that were around at the time, including myself.
#29
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If it is that car, the last configuration that I'm aware of had lowered compression forged pistons, and it wasn't 6 liters. If I remember correctly, it was 5.7 liters, and at that point was at least the third engine to be going into the car.
In addition to some other hands that have been in there as well that really shouldn't have been. There were a number of things done on this car that I sure wouldn't recommend, at least not to anybody I like. Some people really should not be working on this kind of stuff without supervision by someone who actually has an idea of what's really going on, and is aware of the implications of what they're doing.
There's really a good bit more to keeping the engine in one piece than simply retarding timing. Installing a MAP sensor somehow, or some of the knock sensor systems that I've seen for sale in different places, can easily result in nothing more than a false sense of security. I do find something like the **** on the dash to adjust ignition timing at will interesting though. Do you determine the optimum adjustment by turning the **** to increase timing until the engine blows up, then turn the **** back maybe a quarter turn or so?
When it's suggested that an owner ship a car to someone who knows what they're doing in a situation like this one, people often balk at the idea because of the cost. I wonder how much time and money has been put into this car so far. I can guarantee it's a lot more than what it would have cost to to have it done properly the first time, by someone who knows what they're doing, even if that would have required shipping the car to the other side of the earth and back.
In addition to some other hands that have been in there as well that really shouldn't have been. There were a number of things done on this car that I sure wouldn't recommend, at least not to anybody I like. Some people really should not be working on this kind of stuff without supervision by someone who actually has an idea of what's really going on, and is aware of the implications of what they're doing.
There's really a good bit more to keeping the engine in one piece than simply retarding timing. Installing a MAP sensor somehow, or some of the knock sensor systems that I've seen for sale in different places, can easily result in nothing more than a false sense of security. I do find something like the **** on the dash to adjust ignition timing at will interesting though. Do you determine the optimum adjustment by turning the **** to increase timing until the engine blows up, then turn the **** back maybe a quarter turn or so?
When it's suggested that an owner ship a car to someone who knows what they're doing in a situation like this one, people often balk at the idea because of the cost. I wonder how much time and money has been put into this car so far. I can guarantee it's a lot more than what it would have cost to to have it done properly the first time, by someone who knows what they're doing, even if that would have required shipping the car to the other side of the earth and back.
#30
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Thanks for all the suggestions and offers of assistance (Tim, Dave).
Obviously, this engine/vehicle combination was built several years back and tuned with what tools existed back then (nothing). The car has 30 pound injectors and a fuel pressure regulator that apparently has the ability to dump additional fuel under boost. I'm guessing that the 30 pound injectors were the biggest that the original builder could use and still allow the car to idle.....therefore, this is what the car got. Pretty obvious that the fuel flow through 30 pound injectors isn't going to "feed" this engine, at WOT. With the reduced compression, it might not "burn it up", but it certainly isn't going to run its best, at WOT.
Obviously, things have changed over the years, and there a now components that are more appropriate for use on this engine. The ability to change the programming on both the EZF (thanks for the correction, Jim) and the ECU also helps considerably. The work that John Speake has done allows everyone in the 928 community to now tune their engines, once the "basic" components are present.
Also obvious is that there are a couple (few) things that need to be repaired before we even begin to worry about tuning....things like the radiator leak and intake leak.
The other obvious thing that needs to be added is a fuel pump/fuel system big enough to "feed" enough fuel to the front of the vehicle. Certainly, a good "stock" pump will feed the 30 pound injectors....but that is about all.
Obviously, this engine/vehicle combination was built several years back and tuned with what tools existed back then (nothing). The car has 30 pound injectors and a fuel pressure regulator that apparently has the ability to dump additional fuel under boost. I'm guessing that the 30 pound injectors were the biggest that the original builder could use and still allow the car to idle.....therefore, this is what the car got. Pretty obvious that the fuel flow through 30 pound injectors isn't going to "feed" this engine, at WOT. With the reduced compression, it might not "burn it up", but it certainly isn't going to run its best, at WOT.
Obviously, things have changed over the years, and there a now components that are more appropriate for use on this engine. The ability to change the programming on both the EZF (thanks for the correction, Jim) and the ECU also helps considerably. The work that John Speake has done allows everyone in the 928 community to now tune their engines, once the "basic" components are present.
Also obvious is that there are a couple (few) things that need to be repaired before we even begin to worry about tuning....things like the radiator leak and intake leak.
The other obvious thing that needs to be added is a fuel pump/fuel system big enough to "feed" enough fuel to the front of the vehicle. Certainly, a good "stock" pump will feed the 30 pound injectors....but that is about all.