Coolant Leak.
#1
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Guys,
Just finished what I thought was good clean manifold work. New ISV, CPS...
Installed new gaskets/ring to the water bridge about a month ago and no issues while driving.
Started her up last eve after the ISV etc.. and ran fine, but I noted coolant from the back of the engine coming down. I can not visualize any leak from up top. Heater hoses OK, reservoir hoses OK. No water in the car. I have significant amount of water in the 'V'. As soon as I pour water in the reservoir, it comes right back out. I only changed one piece of hardware and that was a water bridge Allen bolt that I had changed to a hex head.
Anyway, I'm going to tear back down and find it but ideas/suggestions would be appreciated to help me focus the search.
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
Just finished what I thought was good clean manifold work. New ISV, CPS...
Installed new gaskets/ring to the water bridge about a month ago and no issues while driving.
Started her up last eve after the ISV etc.. and ran fine, but I noted coolant from the back of the engine coming down. I can not visualize any leak from up top. Heater hoses OK, reservoir hoses OK. No water in the car. I have significant amount of water in the 'V'. As soon as I pour water in the reservoir, it comes right back out. I only changed one piece of hardware and that was a water bridge Allen bolt that I had changed to a hex head.
Anyway, I'm going to tear back down and find it but ideas/suggestions would be appreciated to help me focus the search.
Thanks in Advance.
Craig
#2
Nordschleife Master
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Guys,
Pulled the MAS off and visualized significant coolant in the 'V'.
Also noted on the Right side the bolt that goes into the block, and is part of holding the FPR and airbox brackets is LOOSE.
My sous chef was supposed to torque that down !
Can one lose coolant through this even with the engine not running ?
Pulled the MAS off and visualized significant coolant in the 'V'.
Also noted on the Right side the bolt that goes into the block, and is part of holding the FPR and airbox brackets is LOOSE.
My sous chef was supposed to torque that down !
Can one lose coolant through this even with the engine not running ?
#3
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I believe it can (but under pressure?). Check out my thread about coolant in the V:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pressure.html
Someone mentions a plate in the back that also supports the short hose connecting to the heater control valve as a possible leak point.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-pressure.html
Someone mentions a plate in the back that also supports the short hose connecting to the heater control valve as a possible leak point.
#4
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yes it can leak there if not torqued down. That plate covers a coolant port.
#5
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#6
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Have to angle the car up. 3 clicks on the front jacks while on liftbars to have the fluid drain out back. Considering going to the 4th click. Awful lot of coolant there. Vacuumed out most, but still some there. Will take forever to evaporate with coolant in the mix. Will apply a fan directly over the MAS area facing down. What an absolute fvck up !
#7
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That thing can leak like a sieve- simply torqueing it uop may stop the problem otherwise you might need a new gasket/seal of some kind.
Not even sure why that thing is there unless it is to help inspection somehow although what it would tell you no idea.
Regards
Fred
Not even sure why that thing is there unless it is to help inspection somehow although what it would tell you no idea.
Regards
Fred
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#8
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I had slow leaks from the water bridge. The paper seals had gone hard and the rubber seal must have got pinched at some stage in the past.
As you used new seals try re-torqueing. I have this down as 7 (Ft lbs) first then to 15 (Ft lbs) but recheck this as I don't have Rob Edward's spread sheet in the original format anymore.
As you used new seals try re-torqueing. I have this down as 7 (Ft lbs) first then to 15 (Ft lbs) but recheck this as I don't have Rob Edward's spread sheet in the original format anymore.
#9
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Hopefully torquing the bolt down works, otherwise a new gasket is needed. To remove the coolant, stuff a rag down the V with a long screw driver, remove, wring it out, repeat.
#10
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I had slow leaks from the water bridge. The paper seals had gone hard and the rubber seal must have got pinched at some stage in the past.
As you used new seals try re-torqueing. I have this down as 7 (Ft lbs) first then to 15 (Ft lbs) but recheck this as I don't have Rob Edward's spread sheet in the original format anymore.
As you used new seals try re-torqueing. I have this down as 7 (Ft lbs) first then to 15 (Ft lbs) but recheck this as I don't have Rob Edward's spread sheet in the original format anymore.
My water bridge is good. New gaskets and rings. The non torqued bolt was back by the FPR and heater valve.
I hope the torquing will fill the void in the water jacket, and stem the leak for that is where it is from.
There is a gasket there ? I thought it was just bolts in the water jacket back there.
The attached pic is for those with a teenager(s).
#11
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There is a gasket between the heater tube plate or what ever it is called and the head. No gasket on the bolt, but now that you mention the bolt is loose it is kind of weird there isn't an extra gasket on the bolt. Anyway, just a gasket between the head and the plate.
#14
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Hallelujah !
Put distilled water in the reservoir and it stayed there. No leak to the 'V'.
Lesson learned: When your teenager says it's torqued to value - check it !
And Guys. thanks for the info. and input.
Put distilled water in the reservoir and it stayed there. No leak to the 'V'.
Lesson learned: When your teenager says it's torqued to value - check it !
And Guys. thanks for the info. and input.
#15
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Not at all - thanks goes to you - sort of - since this should now be one item I'll double check and make sure I've done, when I eventually get around to finishing my engine.