Do sun roof motors get tired?
#18
I did not lubricate the tracks because the lubrication acts like flypaper for dust.
But, yes, wonder if the sunroof has been tightened too much- in which case it will close very very slowly, if at all.
But, yes, wonder if the sunroof has been tightened too much- in which case it will close very very slowly, if at all.
#19
I'd say in general no (meaning gradual deterioration of performance over time is not that common).
The most likely culprits are mechanical linkage issues (friction build up) - seems you think you have adressed that, OR electrical resistance build up somewhere in the circuit. Electrical resistance causes voltage drop and this significantly affects motor performance.
It is of course possible that these electrical or mechanical issues are internal.
So check that the motor shaft moves freely and does not have any significant tolerance movement. If the commutator or brushes are very worn or damaged/oxidized that could cause electrical (resistance build-up) issues. However the sunroof motor is very well protected from the elements and usually relatively lightly used so I'd guess that is not the case.
That leaves us with resistance build up in the supply to the motor. Fortunately this is rather easy to test for. Measure battery voltage when operating the motor, then measure the voltage at the motor terminals while operating the motor. If you see a big voltage difference between these this is being lost somewhere in the circuit, creating heat at connections or switch terminals that will progressivley make it worse still...
You can also try powering the motor directly with (fused) battery power to see if it runs faster/more smoothly then.
I believe this config also has a slip clutch drive make sure its not slipping too easily
Alan
The most likely culprits are mechanical linkage issues (friction build up) - seems you think you have adressed that, OR electrical resistance build up somewhere in the circuit. Electrical resistance causes voltage drop and this significantly affects motor performance.
It is of course possible that these electrical or mechanical issues are internal.
So check that the motor shaft moves freely and does not have any significant tolerance movement. If the commutator or brushes are very worn or damaged/oxidized that could cause electrical (resistance build-up) issues. However the sunroof motor is very well protected from the elements and usually relatively lightly used so I'd guess that is not the case.
That leaves us with resistance build up in the supply to the motor. Fortunately this is rather easy to test for. Measure battery voltage when operating the motor, then measure the voltage at the motor terminals while operating the motor. If you see a big voltage difference between these this is being lost somewhere in the circuit, creating heat at connections or switch terminals that will progressivley make it worse still...
You can also try powering the motor directly with (fused) battery power to see if it runs faster/more smoothly then.
I believe this config also has a slip clutch drive make sure its not slipping too easily
Alan
#21
I have seen a few write ups. I will clean the tracks and try it fresh too. This sun roof is the bane of my existence. In have not used it because it hates me. But I can't stand something not working right... Lol
#25
I might do that. The sunroof is on the 529T DEI module. I need to sit down and figure out the dual relays and wiring I would need. Or I could order the second version module from Hans and call it good.
#26
#27
I never seen a tired electrical motor. +1 and more to Alan post #19. Also I never seen a "refresh" of mechanical parts either. I have seen parts refurbished, overhauled, rebuilt, restored or renewed.
My engineers 2 cents worth.
My engineers 2 cents worth.
#28
Don't the DEI modules already have integrated relays for the drive stage?
Adding relays to a reversing drive is slightly complicated.
Best is to use just 2 relays one on each polarity of the motor connections with its common pole connected to the motor and each of the switched poles connected to power & ground (same on each relay).
At rest the motor should see 0v on each connector. If relay A switches you get power on one pole and ground on the other. If relay B switches you get the opposite. If both switch at eaxtly the same time you'd get nothing(e.g power on both) - but best to just avoid this.
If you already have a (low power) reversing source you should be able to drive the coils for this directly.
Alan
Adding relays to a reversing drive is slightly complicated.
Best is to use just 2 relays one on each polarity of the motor connections with its common pole connected to the motor and each of the switched poles connected to power & ground (same on each relay).
At rest the motor should see 0v on each connector. If relay A switches you get power on one pole and ground on the other. If relay B switches you get the opposite. If both switch at eaxtly the same time you'd get nothing(e.g power on both) - but best to just avoid this.
If you already have a (low power) reversing source you should be able to drive the coils for this directly.
Alan
#30