Pulled radiator, trans fluid overflows from res. Pics
#1
Pulled radiator, trans fluid overflows from res. Pics
1987 S4 twin cooler radiator
Had to pull my radiator for repair. Removed fan shroud, two top screws, 6 hoses, temp sensor, ground wire, two rubber stops on top. When I returned from shop there was trans. fluid at the rear directly under trans. fill res.
Is this normal overflow from fluid draining back into system when I removed cooler hoses from rad ? or indicator that there was too much fluid to begin with. About two oz's leaked out from hose and about two oz's leaked out from res at rear.
Will I need to replace this amount back into the system.
Also on the 3rd pic the fitting rotates, is that normal to ease lining it up. None of the others can be rotated.
Thanks
Lon
Had to pull my radiator for repair. Removed fan shroud, two top screws, 6 hoses, temp sensor, ground wire, two rubber stops on top. When I returned from shop there was trans. fluid at the rear directly under trans. fill res.
Is this normal overflow from fluid draining back into system when I removed cooler hoses from rad ? or indicator that there was too much fluid to begin with. About two oz's leaked out from hose and about two oz's leaked out from res at rear.
Will I need to replace this amount back into the system.
Also on the 3rd pic the fitting rotates, is that normal to ease lining it up. None of the others can be rotated.
Thanks
Lon
#2
check the cap and or the vent hose to the tank ,
releasing the hoses let the fluid drain back into the pan,
the leak isnt normal,
You will need to verify the correct level in the tank after refitting of the radiator,
NOTE you should also check the level after a short drive as air is now in the cooler lines and this can take a little bit of time / driving to remove the air
releasing the hoses let the fluid drain back into the pan,
the leak isnt normal,
You will need to verify the correct level in the tank after refitting of the radiator,
NOTE you should also check the level after a short drive as air is now in the cooler lines and this can take a little bit of time / driving to remove the air
#5
Got under pulled the res cap off and fluid overflowed so it was overfilled. Should I drain fluid out to the max line or wait and put it all together start up and see how much get pulled through the system?
#6
put the cap back on, dont drain any fluid and install the fixed radiator.
NOTE when the engine is shut off the trans fluid will drain down and fill up the reservoir.
what your seeing here is a normal situation with the exception the radiator isn't installed
NOTE when the engine is shut off the trans fluid will drain down and fill up the reservoir.
what your seeing here is a normal situation with the exception the radiator isn't installed
#7
I will repeat what Stan has told you, with a few more details just for emphasis...
The reservoir is not the highest point on the transmission fluid system, and the reservoir cap should never be removed unless the system is empty or the engine is running. It is completely normal and expected for the reservoir to be overfilled anytime that the engine isn't running.
It is possible (even likely) that either the cap isn't sealing properly, or that the O-ring seal between the reservoir and transmission body is leaking. The reservoir should hold the fluid even when it appears to be overfilled.
The fluid level must be checked with the engine running and the transmission in Neutral or Park. The car must be level from front-to-rear and side-to-side. You can run a tube out of the wheel well to a funnel or use a pump to add fluid. Dexron VI is the preferred fluid. This might be a good time to change the fluid if it hasn't been done recently.
You can completely flush the fluid fairly easily. After installing and filling the radiator, but before hooking up the transmission cooler, put hoses over each transmission line, and run the hoses to a bucket. Start the engine and let it idle until the fluid stops coming out of the line. Remove the transmission pan, clean it and replace the filter, then replace the pan, being careful to avoid over-tightening the attaching bolts (6 ft/lb).
Fix the leaks at the reservoir.
Add Dexron VI fluid until the reservoir stays filled. Crank the engine and let it idle until the fluid stops coming out. Repeat this until you get clear, clean fluid from the line, or until you have removed about eight quarts.
Install the transmission cooler lines, fill the reservoir, and crank the engine. With the engine idling, fill the reservoir to between the top two lines. Check for leaks.
The reservoir is not the highest point on the transmission fluid system, and the reservoir cap should never be removed unless the system is empty or the engine is running. It is completely normal and expected for the reservoir to be overfilled anytime that the engine isn't running.
It is possible (even likely) that either the cap isn't sealing properly, or that the O-ring seal between the reservoir and transmission body is leaking. The reservoir should hold the fluid even when it appears to be overfilled.
The fluid level must be checked with the engine running and the transmission in Neutral or Park. The car must be level from front-to-rear and side-to-side. You can run a tube out of the wheel well to a funnel or use a pump to add fluid. Dexron VI is the preferred fluid. This might be a good time to change the fluid if it hasn't been done recently.
You can completely flush the fluid fairly easily. After installing and filling the radiator, but before hooking up the transmission cooler, put hoses over each transmission line, and run the hoses to a bucket. Start the engine and let it idle until the fluid stops coming out of the line. Remove the transmission pan, clean it and replace the filter, then replace the pan, being careful to avoid over-tightening the attaching bolts (6 ft/lb).
Fix the leaks at the reservoir.
Add Dexron VI fluid until the reservoir stays filled. Crank the engine and let it idle until the fluid stops coming out. Repeat this until you get clear, clean fluid from the line, or until you have removed about eight quarts.
Install the transmission cooler lines, fill the reservoir, and crank the engine. With the engine idling, fill the reservoir to between the top two lines. Check for leaks.
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#8
Thanks Wally and Mm. Working on my 928 is like reading a War and Peace, lots of battles some peace new chapters with new developments. Brief periods to enjoy winning one battle while you wait for the next.
#11
My hose knowledgable people told me that rotation is not a reliable test of loss of seal at a crimp - only a leak is proof. I had all my cooler lines at the front rebuilt and some turned from new, but have never leaked.
When I replaced the radiator and hoses (having lost whatever was in the intercoolers at the time, cold) I found after firing it up and bringing up to temp, I did not need to add anything to the tranny - it was only a tiny amount down.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k (3 spd)
When I replaced the radiator and hoses (having lost whatever was in the intercoolers at the time, cold) I found after firing it up and bringing up to temp, I did not need to add anything to the tranny - it was only a tiny amount down.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k (3 spd)
#12
Once you create a place for air to "vent", fluid will run back to the transmission.....but if the cap is on correctly, it should not leak.
The "rotating" fitting means that there is no longer enough pressure, from the crimp, to squish the hose onto the fitting. It's exactly like having a loose hose clamp.
I can't see how it wouldn't leak.
Roger will have kits with the proper hose and clamps for the '85, '86, and '87 vehicles and the '88-95 vehicles, with-in the next week, making replacement of all the flexible sections of hose on the automatic transmission hoses a much easier proposition. We tired to make the '85-'87 vehicles all the same, but they are so different, it just doesn't work out.
I think he is accepting "pre-orders."
The "rotating" fitting means that there is no longer enough pressure, from the crimp, to squish the hose onto the fitting. It's exactly like having a loose hose clamp.
I can't see how it wouldn't leak.
Roger will have kits with the proper hose and clamps for the '85, '86, and '87 vehicles and the '88-95 vehicles, with-in the next week, making replacement of all the flexible sections of hose on the automatic transmission hoses a much easier proposition. We tired to make the '85-'87 vehicles all the same, but they are so different, it just doesn't work out.
I think he is accepting "pre-orders."
Last edited by GregBBRD; 08-13-2013 at 09:51 PM.
#14
This will be bulk hose, virtually identical to the original material, with crimp clamps to squeeze down on the hose and maintain pressure on the hose as it swells and contracts.
Additionally, kits will have heat insulation for the applications where the hoses go over the convertor ('86 and '87).