atb

I'm currently stripping out my track car engine compartment. I'm removing all the wiring and taking out all non-essentials.
I've got some questions for those who have BTDT or just have some creative input.
1) Is the jump post desirable in a track car? I'd like to take it out because it gets in the way when installing/removing the engine. Don't really see the utility of it in a track car and would like having the extra room around the engine.
2) I'm going to be running MS 3.57 with Ford EDIS, does anyone see any issue with the placement of the coil packs under the cowl?


3) Although I have S4 brakes on the car ('79), the brakes don't have that great of a feel, they could use more power assist. Would it be doable to install an S4 booster and MC, and build some brake line jumpers to connect the stock brake lines to the S4 MC, but in way to bias the brakes front to back rather than the stock criss-cross pattern?

That's all the under hood questions for now, I'm sure I'll have more later.

OBehave

I have never needed the jump post in my track car and don't see a need for it other than having an easy access to a constant power lead for diagnosing or "McGivering" a cooling fan or something of the sort, but I didn't remove it either.
The coil location would be fine but you will need some sort of deflector to prevent water from getting on them in the rain. Even if you don't plan on tracking in the rain, you will find yourself in the middle of an unsuspecting down pour when you are lining up on pit road and water soaked coils could leave you stranded. BTDT!
A far as brakes, I'm not sure if what you are feeling isn't just new parts that need to be bedded in or maybe bled. I'm running S-4 calipers on all 4 wheels with stock 85S master and when the Padgids heat up, the need for safety harness becomes evident when you stand on the pedal!
I hope this helps.
Ed

Mike Simard

A jump post in the engine compartment is not useful and at risk for grounding in a crash.
A good idea is a power connection accessible from the interior so you can easily attach charging cables without uncovering the battery.
I find that a small connection for a slow charger is all that's needed. I've never had to use "jumper cables" and if I did, could always go to the battery if needed.

Your coils should be happy there, ample cooling air and other sensors are 'shielded'. I moved my igniters there because it can get busy and hot elsewhere.

Ask Mark A about brakes. He runs a stock MC and booster and is happy.

GlenL

Good thread. I'm eyeballing an old beater in the garage for race car conversion.

I've busted that jump post pulling an engine. It is handy as a power source and charge point. I also like that it ties the power harness of the engine to the chassis harness in a clean, reliable way. I've used it to cut off power when doing repair. Just takes a wrench. (11mm?)

Check the PET for a larger booster. I think some OBs had a 7" and some got an 8". Re-connecting the lines would be some work with the OB diagonal system and dual pressure regulators.

As for feel, stainless lines do wonders. My S has what feels like zero travel. S4 calipers require larger volumes so additional travel is needed. Or a bigger master cylinder and that'll want a bigger booster.

hans14914

You may just want to install a high-current connector like this:

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=263-110

Makes a great way to charge without needed access to the battery.

Lizard928

Remove the jump post, and all wires going from it to your fuse panel. Instead run a lead right from the battery.

Move the coils to the center of the car, but in the cowl area, water should not affect them at all as all the connectors should be 100% sealed.

The 79 booster has a smaller diameter bore so will give you an easier to modulate pedal but with a longer stroke. You can install a larger booster, but will need to use a ball peen hammer to massage one spot to fit it on that chassis.
The later MC will give you less pedal travel but a harder pedal (hence the need for a larger more powerful booster).
Plumb in a remote adjustable bias valve (wildwood makes a nice one) and then you can fully tweak the brakes!
You don't need to change master cylinders to change from a criss cross pattern braking, just just have to move a couple connections.

Rob Edwards

Adam, I'm just the caretaker so far (thrashing to get ready for a POC day in October, at the rate I'm going) , but if there are any particular pics from the White Zombie that would be useful to you, holler and I'll take and post 'em.

Mark started with a completely stripped 'body in white', so everything that's there got put back for a reason.








As far as the jump post goes, Mark's racer still has it:

BC

Its a bracket I would pull off, personally. In fact I will. Once you get away from stock wiring, and go to the track, much can be removed and should. Weight is a major penalty, and it all adds up.

Rob Edwards

Jump post still there, January 2013. Zombie still used the stock FOE harness and 14 pin connector.

atb

Thanks for all of the helpful input everyone.

Regarding the coil packs, thanks for the heads up on the potential water intrusion issue, I guess I'll just have to make sure that the car is never moving under 100mph so that boundary layer or airflow will keep any rain moving over the top of the car. Its good to know that the cowl area is an otherwise good location and I'll plan to make it the permanent home. Colin, I don't know if I'll be able to center them much more as I'm concerned they'll interfere with the windshield wiper linkage. Right now they are mounted to the stock FoMoCo mounting plate, which is pretty cool and I'd like to continue to use it in my final install. It takes up more room, but makes for a very clean install.

The jump post is history. There have been too many times that I've wedged a 32v motor between it (or the engine light plunger switch mount) and the cross member mount on the driver side. It's amazing how that little bit of intrusion into the engine compartment can create such a hassle. I may relocate it in some fashion (I like your idea Mike of a smaller connector mounted inboard somewhere, Hans I'll check out that connector) , but the huge metal bracket currently in the engine bay that the jump post bolts to is going to be gone.

Still not committed on what to do about the brake situation. With everything out of the engine compartment, I hate to miss the opportunity to improve this situation. My braking now is not bad, it's just not great. Or to quantify it a little bit, my OB with S4 calipers does not brake as well as a stock S4. The pedal does not have a lot of feel, and it seems like you really have to stand on the pedal to get any braking out of it. Plus, I really would like to get the brake biasing switched to front /rear as opposed to corner to corner. I think I may remove the M/C and booster and just see what it is that I'm dealing with in that regard.

Thanks again, appreciate all the insights and advice.

Rob I'll let you know if I need any zombie wisdom. I really am trying to follow the Mark Anderson mantra in this build, basically, only put as much time into the car as needed to maximize your time behind the wheel. I'm really trying not to get caught up in the minute details of concors level cosmetics and wringing out every ounce of performance. I just want it safe, driveable, and dependable, and once its set up, not in need of a lot of fiddling around.