Pulling motor tips
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
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Decided that I wont be happy unless I fix everything first. Oil leaks and clean up
So the motor needs to come out. Any tips on lifting out. I have the intake and front drive all off already. 89 5 speed
So the motor needs to come out. Any tips on lifting out. I have the intake and front drive all off already. 89 5 speed
#3
Rennlist Member
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- Break loose the crankshaft bolt before you pull it.
- have a friend there to feed the god damned wiring harness through the firewall. I'd love to kick the Franz in the ***** that made the hole so small.
- Remove the fuel lines by the wiring harness/firewall to have better access.
- Don't forget to remove the bolt holding the wiring harness on the driver side crossmember location. You'll be lifting the car up by it if you don't.
- Greg Nettles(RIP) gave a great way to loosen the top bellhousing bolts. Use a 4' extension and go through from the bottom at an angle all the way to the upper bellhousing bolts. Use a wobble extension on the end to get the socket to fit. IF that doesn't work, use an offset wrench (search Rob Edwards posts for pictures of this)
- Put on a Constantine Super Clamp since you'll have the engine out. Now is the time to do it.
- Replace your torque tube bearings. Now is the time to do it.
- Replace your motor mounts.
- get your crossmember modified by Carl Fausset so when you do have to replace your oil pan gasket in 10 years you can just remove the center section and not have to take the whole crossmember down. Wish I had done this!
- put all your parts in baggies with index cards listing what, where, how many and wrench size
- make sure you have a damn sturdy engine stand
- note where your lifters come from (thanks Greg Brown)
- change your head gaskets and use a super quality angle torque wrench
- get the updated cam end seals
- replace the front and rear main seals while the engine is out. way easier now
- put on a porkensioner while you have it out of car. super easy at this point
- put an oil pan stud kit on now (silicone gasket optional)
- get a super high quality torque wrench. Did I say that already. I bought a snap on Techangle 1/2" wrench. Worth every penny of the around $450 I paid. IIRC.
- clean the **** of of the block while you have it out. toothbrush and brake kleen. wear a respirator or do it outside.
- HAVE A FRIEND THERE TO HELP YOU FEED WIRES BACK IN THROUGH FIREWALL WHEN INSTALLING. IT SUCKS TO DO IT ALONE. If you are really gutsy, cut the wiring harness and install quick disconnect waterproof fittings at firewall. I am talking really ballsy gutsy type move. This way it is easy to refit the wiring harness. do this at your own risk.
- take the time to clean all the grounds and re tape the wiring harness where worn. The self sealing rubber electrical tape does a very nice job of this away from exhaust.
#4
Rennlist Member
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I don't touch the inside car wiring at the CE/ CPU's, you are going to disconnect the sensors from the harness at the engine anyway, why double your chances of a bad connection and tear the inside of the car apart? Disconnect all and lay harness over right fender.
The lower (front) harness pulls w/ the engine, disconnect it at the 14 pin then starter, alternator, pull it through the cross member wire loom and re thread back w/ a stiff wire.
This has all been covered in another "step by step" thread.
The lower (front) harness pulls w/ the engine, disconnect it at the 14 pin then starter, alternator, pull it through the cross member wire loom and re thread back w/ a stiff wire.
This has all been covered in another "step by step" thread.
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#9
Former Sponsor
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Bring a sack lunch to remove.
Bring a couple days of sack lunches to re-install.
Bring a couple days of sack lunches to re-install.
#10
Rennlist Member
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Last but not least, have fun. It is really a good time. At least I thought it was. I had mine all buttoned up and found one of the oil galley plugs on my head was leaking. Of course it was the back one that I couldn't get to between the head and firewall.
I had the engine out, fixed and back in within 8 hours by myself. Second time is much, much easier.
I had the engine out, fixed and back in within 8 hours by myself. Second time is much, much easier.
#11
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87s4. Everyone has a different style and method. You must find what works for you.
For me here are my tips. If u don't label wires plugs etc. good luck on reinstall. Every connection must be labelled. Watch vacuum lines especially. I removed all wires in bay and laid if harness on windshield.
Please note comment about harness on drivers side crossmember...pain I the amass.
Remove ac compressor and alternator...remove radiator.
This is critical. Loosen crank bolt. Bt also make sure tabs on flywheel are at 6 o'clock position not 12 o'clock. You will understand later.
All else is just documenting and taking your time.
Lots of time.
For me here are my tips. If u don't label wires plugs etc. good luck on reinstall. Every connection must be labelled. Watch vacuum lines especially. I removed all wires in bay and laid if harness on windshield.
Please note comment about harness on drivers side crossmember...pain I the amass.
Remove ac compressor and alternator...remove radiator.
This is critical. Loosen crank bolt. Bt also make sure tabs on flywheel are at 6 o'clock position not 12 o'clock. You will understand later.
All else is just documenting and taking your time.
Lots of time.