RPetty2

In my last thread turns out my fathers wheel looked really cambered because the tire had came off the bead. Rather that then other things so thanks for help speed toys and iceman,
Now I'm home and got two problem with dads racer, clutch will not fully release. The other is I cannot put the car in any gear, it just grinds.
Got a race weekend in one week so I got a week to figure this out and hopefully fix it.

Any suggestions? Could it be grinding gears because the cough is not engaging ?
Thanks! Ricky jr

IcemanG17

sounds bad....in reality the intermediate plate is dragging..................not super hard to fix....a couple ways

1: open the bell housing and take a big screw driver and flex it back....the correct way to fix it is drop it and pin it ala Kibort style......not hard and works well.....MK has been running it for years....

I am 99% sure that will fix it......the only other possible scenario is bubble in the slave.....so when you bleed the slave take it off the bellhousing and point the bleeder UP so the bubbles rise to the bleeder....then power bleed it.....

IcemanG17

more good news.....I have a nice used intermediate plate at my house....I also have a BRAND NEW plate at the shop.....BUT you can't have that unless we "talk"

Speedtoys

No probs..glad it was that simple..but..
How do you not recognize a flat tire... by feel or by looking at it?

RPetty2

It was 113 degrees and we were about to pass out lol

RPetty2

I'll take off bell housing right now and update you in a bit, thanks Drunckle

Speedtoys

Racing requires certain sacrafices son. Pretty sure on my way to grab a beer..I could ID a flat tire.

Glad its better.

But after a lap like that, consider the tire trash. The sidewall is compromised, and you can consider it a high risk of blowout..and losing the car.

You -do not run- race tires a lap flat and use them again.

RPetty2

Yea I put a different tire on. To remove bell housing, headers stay in place?

Ducman82

if you MSDS headers, they need to come off to get to bell housing plate off.

mark kibort

no no no. your right. once that sidewall has been crushed , the tire is junk.. been there done that!

so, best way would be just to take a rotary saw and cut a hole so you can see and adust. as it is , there is already a peak hole to push the slave cylinder shaft into place when installing a slave, and to measure clutch wear.

those Crappy Level 1 headers might need you to remove a side to get the bell housing off. if so, DONT EVEN THINK ABOUT IT. cut a hole (like a 2" square hole) in the bell housing so you can inspect and adjust the INT plate. i actually drilled mine from there and inserted roll pins with the cover on. (to pin the H adusters on the int plate.

all you need to do , is see if the H adjusters have a very small gap. anything larger than 1mm, and the int plate will travel too far rearward when you push the clutch in and it will then make contact with the pressure plate and spin up the drive shaft, making it impossible to get into gear. (so just close them back down to about 1mm or so and you will be good. there are 3 of them)
However, this has little effect on shifting on the track because the pressure on that pressure plate is relatively small. (but more than enough to spin up a fee wheeling torque tube! )

Also, there is no guarantee that adjusting will stay. more than likely , it might work for a while, but i figured this out a long time ago. when you put the clutch pedal in at 6000rpm, you separate the entire disc, plate, clutch assebly. so, the int plate is spinning being only supported by 3 little flat springs. any vibration at all , with this 5lb massive disc, will bang against the H adjusters and move them very easily too far rearward. THIS is what causes the problem... i finally figured this out when street driving was fine, but at the race track, the adjusters were moving to make a larger gap, and causing the problem you are seeing

Mk

mark kibort

see my HUGE INT plate thread to see the position of the hole needed to be cut. scot did it and so did I. not pretty , but it works! (and every dual disc clutch car should have this ) heck, if you dont like having a hole, make a nice hatch for it then.

RPetty2

Thought so, drivers side looks more difficult then the passengers...

Tom. M

It is.. but before you get too deep into the clutch adjustment.. bleed your slave and your master (from the inside)..to see if air got trapped in there and is not allowing the clutch to operate properly. ....if that is fine.. then go after the int. plate adjustment..

RPetty2

Yesterday I bled the clutch and even changed the fluid, so I really doubt air is inside but it wouldn't hurt to double check.

Tom. M

Did you bleed the master from the inside?.. pull off the rubber boot and see if the piston is all the way up in the bore.. remove the circlip (and rod)..pull piston out to the second seal...tilt down...hear the air hiss out..and then when fluid is flowing without air..push it all back in...and button it up...

Check on the slave to see if it is moving the release arm when you push on the cluch.. I can't remember the spec.. but I think 17mm or something like that..